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Tamiya M-07 Concept

Old 04-05-2019, 11:12 PM
  #826  
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Finished building the car at 5.30pm, was TQ 4 hours later

I ran a full size pack because I was short on time to make shorty fit, with my m05 I was a lot faster with the shorty pack so will switch for next week.

totally box stock M-07r apart from using 350cst shock oil all round.
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Old 04-06-2019, 05:36 AM
  #827  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
DaSilva,
-how much does your car weigh (w/ body and ready to run)?
I notice your running a long pack ...hence why I ask.

FYI,
I run a shorty pack then put about 30grams of weight under and behind the motor (there is a small space between the back of the motor and the battery compartment). I am at 1301 (weight limit being minimum 1300).

Checked last night. Race ready full size batt pack with Miata body came in at 1249 with sweep wheels / tires. I will be adding the sway bars which will add a bit along with the Tamiya M / S grip combo probably another 20gram from where I'm at. My M05 with tricks was down to 1340 I think so pretty big difference :O I don't race TCS nor is there a Mini class so I don't have any rules to meet. I might bring it up to 1300 though just because and place the weight accordingly
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Old 04-06-2019, 06:12 PM
  #828  
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With a light paint job on a CRX body, a full size 5000mah battery, a full size TG411 servo, I was 24g under weight whit my M07.
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Old 04-07-2019, 05:54 PM
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Tire wear may drop you below the minimum. Fyi

1305g for me, long pack, S-grips, TCS 'legal'. lol
I weigh my car every race, tire wear hasn't seemed to have effected the weight,
I do occassionaly add a single body clip under the body if I am worried ..that usually bumps me up a tad.

I ran a full size pack because I was short on time to make shorty fit, with my m05 I was a lot faster with the shorty pack so will switch for next week.
I definitely prefer the shorty pack, the weight is closer to the centerline of the chassis and running a shorty will usually make you under weight, which allows you to place the weight needed (to get back up to spec') in strategic locations.

My M05 with tricks was down to 1340 I think so pretty big difference
1340 ...I'd lose 35grams, it WILL make a difference (unless your not racing it, then doesn't matter and you won't notice).
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Old 04-15-2019, 07:09 AM
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Trying to find the correct Spring part number for the M chassis big bore shocks (The Latest black version that came on the M05 V2 R)

I think it's part #42168, just wondering if someone can confirm?
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Old 04-15-2019, 07:14 AM
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42168 is what the M07R comes with
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Old 04-15-2019, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by antlockyer
42168 is what the M07R comes with
Thank you
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Old 04-15-2019, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by DaSilva3525
Trying to find the correct Spring part number for the M chassis big bore shocks (The Latest black version that came on the M05 V2 R)

I think it's part #42168, just wondering if someone can confirm?
The shocks on the M05 V2 R are not the big bore shocks. They're just a black version of the 54000 shocks. They use the same springs though.
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Old 04-18-2019, 05:39 AM
  #834  
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Default SSBB on M07

Originally Posted by DaSilva3525
I was just thinking this the other day and would like to know as well. Build a new kit on the weekend with the 419 Big bores but wouldn't mind the 419 X units

seems like i am not the only one looking into this


with simple math approach, (please correct me if i am going wrong.)


#54790 damper stays lowers the height of the top ends of the dampers by 2.5mm which is designed for, according to Tamiya, using TRF short dampers(#42273 supposedly) which is approximately 4mm shorter (2mm on body /2mm from shaft) than TRF special dampers(#42102) from M07R kits from what I researched.


SSBB(#42305) is 1.2mm wider in diameter and 6.5mm shorter than #42102.


in short, #42102 61mm / #42273 57mm/ SSBB 54.5mm. (total lengths could vary while assembling like +/- 0.5mm or more) which seem like some sort of modifications like stock shafts on SSBB might be needed to use SSBB on M07 with #54790 damper stays.


well this is what i got so far for now waiting for others' more professional inputs
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Old 04-18-2019, 08:06 AM
  #835  
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dependent on which shocks are being used... most people make due by swapping the plastic ball ends; either the short or the long and/or internal limiters. I've used them all successfully, full TC shock with internal limiters and short ball ends, mini "big bore" with long ball ends, and SSBB with long ball ends. HTH
more importantly, is the fact that all of the old springs will 'not' work/fit nicely on non SSBB shocks. to use the SSBB you will have to buy the latest touring car big bore springs. the ones with the heat shrink identification (red, yellow, green, etc) short/long versions.

Last edited by Markus; 04-19-2019 at 08:52 PM. Reason: correction for the mini police
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:56 AM
  #836  
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All true, there is no official way to adapt SSBB dampers in the M07 and benefit from the the shorter length to reduce c.o.g.. As the upper ball end is the same, the shock body will not be lower than the M05R BB dampers body. And you have to change piston rod or unscrew the lower ball end etc..
The best idea would be change the upper ball end: cut the plastic part completely off the base disc, drill a 3mm hole and screw on a lower ball end or something similar. So the shock body comes down in reference to the chassis. Not to difficult to do, but for sure only allowed in open classes. But makes much more sense than using longer ball ends on the lower end in my eyes...
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Markus
, mini "big bore" (which they are not, since standard pistons are used)
"m-chassis big bore" #42291 are not the same as what comes on the m05 v2R and are actually a bigger bore than standard , they look very similar but do take a different piston to standard m-chassis shocks like the #5400 which are the same size as the v2R shocks
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Old 04-18-2019, 11:04 PM
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The real question is, if you go to all this trouble will it make a measurable difference on the track?
Cos if the times aren't quicker, then....
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Old 04-19-2019, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Markus
dependent on which shocks are being used... most people make due by swapping the plastic ball ends; either the short or the long and/or internal limiters. I've used them all successfully, full TC shock with internal limiters and short ball ends, mini "big bore" (which they are not, since standard pistons are used) with long ball ends, and SSBB with long ball ends. HTH
more importantly, is the fact that all of the old springs will 'not' work/fit nicely on non SSBB shocks. to use the SSBB you will have to buy the latest touring car big bore springs. the ones with the heat shrink identification (red, yellow, green, etc) short/long versions.
The Tamiya 42291 big bore shocks have 0.5mm larger diameter and the pistons are bigger. They don't work well when you put the standard pistons in them.
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Old 04-22-2019, 03:16 PM
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Default 3racing DCJs fitting

Hi,

Anyone else have trouble fitting the 3racing DCJs to standard m07 steering knuckle? They seem to come up a bit short and don't allow the wheel hex pin to slide through. I've checked that the bearings are pushed in fully, and don't have the same issue when replacing with the kit stock drive shaft.
I'm starting to wonder if they only work with the 3racing aluminium knuckle.
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