Tamiya M-07 Concept
#556
Got some of these today and they fit perfectly - thanks to all for the advice.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...-approved.html
Now it would be good if I could find some decent turnbuckles - I heard that Zen make some but I cant find them anywhere to buy online...?
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...-approved.html
Now it would be good if I could find some decent turnbuckles - I heard that Zen make some but I cant find them anywhere to buy online...?
#557
Tech Fanatic
My SCTE takes a pretty damn deep gulp of battery power when I "floor it" to make it through a triple in one go after a turn for example, so when a 20C/40C pack can make that happen as much as a higher rating one can, it speaks volumes to me. I've never felt limited by a battery other than in capacity (in other words runtime, damned 4WD goes through a battery so fast). A Mini is a crawler by comparison.
Anyway, there's plenty of solid info out there about this, no need for me to parrot more of it here... plus, not really the thread for it anyways. Sorry for sidetracking things, guys! And of course there's no harm in getting a higher C-rating pack, except that it might be more expensive without any actual benefit and as someone stated perhaps a bit heavier. But as was also said, we each do as we feel best.
#558
I think all the comments are valuable, ...batteries have been discussed and debated so much on other threads and agree that we can probably dedicate another 10 pages at least on this subject. In the end, like you said, we all do as we feel best.
#559
Tech Regular
My SCTE takes a pretty damn deep gulp of battery power when I "floor it" to make it through a triple in one go after a turn for example, so when a 20C/40C pack can make that happen as much as a higher rating one can, it speaks volumes to me. I've never felt limited by a battery other than in capacity.
#560
I do have another question, ...curious what diff' weight oil your all using in your m07's?
-and do any of you mix diff oils (from same manufacturer)? I am currently using 100k but fee that something a tad lighter would be better, say 90k -if they make it. So I was thinking of mixing some 100k and a bit of 50k in my diff to make it a bit lighter than the 100k I have in. thoughts?
-and do any of you mix diff oils (from same manufacturer)? I am currently using 100k but fee that something a tad lighter would be better, say 90k -if they make it. So I was thinking of mixing some 100k and a bit of 50k in my diff to make it a bit lighter than the 100k I have in. thoughts?
Or take out 2 gears ?
#562
I went with steel BD7 3x16 for the camber links, and Vbc 3x15 for steering. Aluminum tends to bend or snap if I pound 'the kink' a little too hard at my local track. lol
#563
#564
#565
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
Any ideas on what I can substitute in for the front uprights and steering knuckles, with so many places out of stock of the standard ones, and the 3 racing ones not legal at big events as no equal Tamiya parts (And yes, over here, there are some very eager Mini trophy hunters!)
Also the small spacer that goes under the screw holding the steering block in.
Note to self, on a hot outdoor asphalt track, Tamiya Type B's suck!
Finding the Shimizu 456 lasted all of 3 * 6 second races before completely chewed out on the inside edge (kit set up) Any one else running asphalt finding such with the tyre wear?
Also the small spacer that goes under the screw holding the steering block in.
Note to self, on a hot outdoor asphalt track, Tamiya Type B's suck!
Finding the Shimizu 456 lasted all of 3 * 6 second races before completely chewed out on the inside edge (kit set up) Any one else running asphalt finding such with the tyre wear?
#567
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
Any ideas on what I can substitute in for the front uprights and steering knuckles, with so many places out of stock of the standard ones, and the 3 racing ones not legal at big events as no equal Tamiya parts (And yes, over here, there are some very eager Mini trophy hunters!)
Also the small spacer that goes under the screw holding the steering block in.
Note to self, on a hot outdoor asphalt track, Tamiya Type B's suck!
Finding the Shimizu 456 lasted all of 3 * 6 second races before completely chewed out on the inside edge (kit set up) Any one else running asphalt finding such with the tyre wear?
Also the small spacer that goes under the screw holding the steering block in.
Note to self, on a hot outdoor asphalt track, Tamiya Type B's suck!
Finding the Shimizu 456 lasted all of 3 * 6 second races before completely chewed out on the inside edge (kit set up) Any one else running asphalt finding such with the tyre wear?
Regarding tyre wear, I'm liking the Team Powers 36, front and back, when the asphalt is hot. They're a bit twitchy for the first lap or so but they last pretty well.
#568
This is something a few of us were discussing at our club. We're of the opinion that if the only benefit is reliability over the standard item, it can run.
#569
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
Rationally, given the limited availability of the replacement part (and even the upgrade part) I think that if a club excludes someone for having these parts, it'd be a bit of a dog move.
#570
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
It would be nice to substitute the plastic steering knuckles with M05 aluminium ones. At least until Tamiya works out their spare parts availability issues with C Parts tree.
I've found the Pits 36 tyres to be great on the front of the M07 in the heat, I have found the TP36s are over grippy and cause the car to almost traction roll or step out.
I've found the Pits 36 tyres to be great on the front of the M07 in the heat, I have found the TP36s are over grippy and cause the car to almost traction roll or step out.