rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

New parts available from PSM, shock towers and 2.0mm upper decks for all 3 layouts!

https://www.psmfactory.com/products/.../tb-evo7/#shop

Tom1977

Nice. Will probably order the new upper deck for layout 3/C.

But the thickness of the graphite is a little bit irritating.

My chassis lower deck has 2.00mm (measured with caliper/minus thickness of protection foil of 0.3mm). The upper decks are 1.5mm (rear) and 1.7mm (front). The package label stated 2.0mm. It was the first batch, i bought.

Why the hell the new batch of lower deck has now 2.25mm???

Wondering which thickness the new layout 3/C upper deck has and if it works properly with the old 2.0mm lower deck...

@rc_square24: Whats your actual thickness of the graphite parts? Do you have the first batch, too?

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

I think I have the second batch? When I backordered it was expected for March 16.

The tag on my packaging says 2.0mm but the lower deck is actually 2.25mm on my caliper.

Both sets of the upper decks measured at 1.5mm front and rear as labeled.

Weird that you have a thicker front deck??

The thickness of the lower deck shouldn't affect the installation of the upper ones though, right?

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Hi everyone
Sorry it's a bit off topic at the moment but I've just bought one of these kits and plan on racing it indoors and outdoors and need to get a supply of spares that would be needed as I'll be the only one racing it at club level near me. What breaks? And what tuning hop ups will I likely need - I have springs but will need to order everything else!
Thanks for any advice/help in advance

Tom1977

Ring and bevel gear set (#54593). Gearbox internals are the same as TB04/Evo 6 and this parts will wear first. Next are probably c-hubs. They break often when contact with walls. #54580 - 4 degree or #54546 - 6 degree. All parts are carbon reinforced version.

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! How do the front and rear drive shafts hold up???

Juan Aveytia

Buy the exotek 4 degree caster blocks. They’re aluminum. And way more precise over the Tamiya plastics. If you know how to shim the drivetrain properly. It shouldn’t fail on you. You literally have to start at one gear box until it’s perfect. And work your way down the line. You don’t want any backlash in it. And the spool and diffs shouldn’t move side to side at all. Shim it until it binds up. Then back off one or 2 shims

Alfa1989

Hm bad Quality of the first Batch?
rckleinkram.de as a Reseller of psm didn't sell it until now

LetGo

Thanks dude.

Thelira

Hello! Bought a Evo 7 recently since I have always wanted to build one. I have a question for folks who have built the kit using stock kits. I am finishing up the oil-filled diff and am having issues screwing the 'top' of the diff housing after I filled the lower with oil. It does not appear to be threaded. Is this normal?

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

The plastic parts aren't pre threaded. You'll cut the thread the first time you put the screw in.

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

The screw holes on the TB diff cases are not threaded. Before assembling the diff and filling oil, it is recommended that you pre-thread them to make it easier to tighten and ensuring that the screw will go in straight during actual assembly.

However, I have noticed that even after pre-threading the diff cases with the kit supplied M2 screws, during actual assembly the plastic still grips quite strongly onto the screw when I tighten it (it makes a clicking/squeaking sound). I also found that the plastic material around the screw holes (the side facing the internals of the diff) has cracked. This happened in nearly all the holes on 3 of my diffs that I have disassembled to inspect, the diffs have no apparent leakage but I can see a very thin crack when a screw is inserted with the diff case open.

I think this is caused by the small hole from the molding and relatively thinner wall material around the interior side of the screw hole, and when the screw is threaded in it forces the material outwards and cracks at the thinnest part of the wall, which is the part that faces the inside of the case.

I believe drilling the holes out to slightly over the kit diameter will help to relieve the stress that causes the cracking. The recommended drill size for a M2x0.4 screw in plastic is 1.55mm but I have yet to confirm the best bit size for the TB cases as I’m still waiting to get a set of micro drill bits (1.5~2.0 in increments of 0.05mm or less) to test it out. This should also allow a better feel for the tightness of the screw to prevent over tightening and stripping.


Edit: I tried screwing into a new diff case and it still cracks the inside wall, this is even before tightening with the gasket and diff cover so I'm pretty sure it's not an issue of over tightening.

Tom1977

Have the same issue with the cracked diff housing. Had the same already with my TB04 and Evo6. Does drilling out the holes really help? This will weaken the sidewalls even more...

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

I have yet to try it, but what I mean is that it's not the thickness of the walls are that are causing the cracks, it's cracking there because it's the weakest area (relative to the outside edge). I believe there's enough material to hold the screw once it's tapped on a hole with the right size. The holes need to be slightly larger maybe 0.1mm or 0.15mm max just to relief the tension caused by the bolt. Will report back once I get around doing it, I stalled my build because of this.

Thelira

@rc_square24 / Gigaplex - Thank you so much for your quick replies! Will apply a bit more elbow grease when I get off work!