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Tamiya TB Evo 7

Old 11-09-2017, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Well I've done the before and after test many times, and the lighter drivetrain wins by more than a few laps, and you endup with a cooler motor too, which increases available horsepower throughout the run with higher battery voltage, less traction roll, etc...
The conclusion here is that lighter weight matters to some people only when tc car manufacturers say so !!! How many reviews have there been praising lightweight stuff all over redrc ? You don't here nobody saying anything then, but don't dare come up with a light weight idea yourself, or else it's TENCHO time.....lol...
Several seconds? Maybe. Several laps? Nobody will believe that. I've recently switched from plastic to steel outdrives in my TC3 and didn't go any slower.
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex View Post
Several seconds? Maybe. Several laps? Nobody will believe that. I've recently switched from plastic to steel outdrives in my TC3 and didn't go any slower.
I've done all the mods, and I can tell you that you really get benefits when you change all the steel stuff rather than a couple of diffs: cvd's, dcj's, axles, input shafts, all in aluminum or plastic... You only lost about 25grams switching to the plastic diffs, and the diffs rotate slower than the input shaft/driveshaft combo. Did you regear to take advantage of the lighter parts??? Was that in 17.5t blinky??? Ceramic bearings(1gram less)???...
When I say faster, I mean a visible difference in acceleration down the straight(four or five car lengths), with lots more benefits in the infield due to more braking and throttling. After five minutes, the stock steel car will be at least one lap or more down. Sure my car has other lighter stuff that might make it more than several laps better than the stock car, but I feel that the drivetrain parts had more effect than anything else... Even my competitors noticed the difference when I was running the same fantom v1 motor as them(xray t4/A800X) and was pulling them down the straight at 360v2... They usually never worry about my car closing on them down the straight, but not this time......Sure they lost me in the infield, but that was mainly due to the driver, not the car...lol....
All I am saying is that if the spec motors are close, you'll want the car with 50grams less in the drivetrain.....
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:24 PM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
I've done all the mods, and I can tell you that you really get benefits when you change all the steel stuff rather than a couple of diffs: cvd's, dcj's, axles, input shafts, all in aluminum or plastic... You only lost about 25grams switching to the plastic diffs, and the diffs rotate slower than the input shaft/driveshaft combo. Did you regear to take advantage of the lighter parts??? Was that in 17.5t blinky??? Ceramic bearings(1gram less)???...
When I say faster, I mean a visible difference in acceleration down the straight(four or five car lengths), with lots more benefits in the infield due to more braking and throttling. After five minutes, the stock steel car will be at least one lap or more down. Sure my car has other lighter stuff that might make it more than several laps better than the stock car, but I feel that the drivetrain parts had more effect than anything else... Even my competitors noticed the difference when I was running the same fantom v1 motor as them(xray t4/A800X) and was pulling them down the straight at 360v2... They usually never worry about my car closing on them down the straight, but not this time......Sure they lost me in the infield, but that was mainly due to the driver, not the car...lol....
All I am saying is that if the spec motors are close, you'll want the car with 50grams less in the drivetrain.....
I didn't change gearing, have plastic CVDs and drive shaft, standard bearings. Racing 21.5 TC. I'm usually about 1 lap behind the local fast guy who runs a ceramic bearing A800X and regularly podiums at our nationals. On a good day I can contend for second place. No way losing a few more grams in the input shafts will make me suddenly gain a couple of laps and lap the fastest guys in the country.
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex View Post
I didn't change gearing, have plastic CVDs and drive shaft, standard bearings. Racing 21.5 TC. I'm usually about 1 lap behind the local fast guy who runs a ceramic bearing A800X and regularly podiums at our nationals. On a good day I can contend for second place. No way losing a few more grams in the input shafts will make me suddenly gain a couple of laps and lap the fastest guys in the country.
You run two ball diffs and gold swaybars on carpet?
Ceramic bearings would help alot at the end of the race with fade, but if you are that close to the top guy, then every bit would be worthwhile: your described drivetrain could lose another 15grams from input/driveshafts, axles, front aluminum spool, etc, to catch the A800X..
Effort is priceless !!! Good job TOM, I command you for your effort in improving the TB evo 7's drivetrain !!!

Last edited by bertrandsv87; 11-09-2017 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 11-09-2017, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
You run two ball diffs and gold swaybars on carpet?
Ceramic bearings would help alot at the end of the race with fade, but if you are that close to the top guy, then every bit would be worthwhile: your described drivetrain could lose another 15grams from input/driveshafts, axles, front aluminum spool, etc, to catch the A800X..
We're drifting off topic here, but I run exclusively outdoors on asphalt. No swaybars. Currently have the front diff locked down with TC5 slipper spool pads. I get little to no fade, often my fastest laps are at the tail end of the race. I could drop a ton of cash on my plastic tub TC3 for a slightly lighter drivetrain, but I've already done some back to back comparisons on lap times and there was no measurable difference between steel and plastic outdrives. It's not worth the money, and certainly won't get me a couple of laps. If I was only a couple of seconds behind the fast guy, I might consider trying it, but at that point I'd just get a better car.
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Old 11-09-2017, 06:37 PM
  #246  
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Ok.... Cool, back on topic....
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:12 AM
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Guys, how is the EVO 7 on the carpet?
Anyone can give some info?
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Old 11-10-2017, 06:13 AM
  #248  
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Hi!

I am debating of getting into touringcars or 1:12th scle for the winter.
TB EvO7 looks like a fantastic car!

When i read abaout the weight discussion here, have any of you actually weigh the EVO7 and compared it to, say an Xray or Yokomo without any electronics, wheels and body?
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Old 11-10-2017, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by am View Post
Hi!

I am debating of getting into touringcars or 1:12th scle for the winter.
TB EvO7 looks like a fantastic car!

When i read abaout the weight discussion here, have any of you actually weigh the EVO7 and compared it to, say an Xray or Yokomo without any electronics, wheels and body?
Look at Page 13. There i weighted the 7 'naked' out of the box. Has 650g.
Comparing to Xray/Yokomo? They are belt driven cars and naturally lighter then shaft driven. The 7 is out of the box ~ 120g heavier than my 419X with carbon lower deck. Both with standard LiPo pack. With modifications but without change to a shorty pack there are still ~70-80g difference between both. But it makes no sense to compare. Complete different drive train concepts.
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:57 PM
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Guys, has anybody actually raced it yet?

Is it any Good? Worth the huge price tag or stick with my 419?
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Old 11-10-2017, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by hipwell View Post
Guys, has anybody actually raced it yet?

Is it any Good? Worth the huge price tag or stick with my 419?
Most people who buy tamiya stuff will go all out building it. But never race. The 419 will be as fast or a lot faster than shaft drive. It's just the way it is. Awesomatix went faster the moment they went belt drive. There are zero world titles with shaft drive. Belts tend to carry more corner speed and are usually more consistent around the track. That being said. Racing something different and fresh is always fun
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Old 11-10-2017, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia View Post
Most people who buy tamiya stuff will go all out building it. But never race. The 419 will be as fast or a lot faster than shaft drive. It's just the way it is. Awesomatix went faster the moment they went belt drive. There are zero world titles with shaft drive. Belts tend to carry more corner speed and are usually more consistent around the track. That being said. Racing something different and fresh is always fun
The tc3 came close to winning a title until Hara cheated... In NY, that would have been a serious fist fight... Shaft cars also race in the minority, so that can explain the low winning ratio, but I think their realism is alot more appealing than their belt competitors....The evo 7 has most of the configurations covered, except for the transverse layout(evo6), and I think that it's very unique.....
Tamiya has all the layouts covered !!!
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Old 11-10-2017, 04:51 PM
  #253  
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
The tc3 came close to winning a title until Hara cheated... In NY, that would have been a serious fist fight... Shaft cars also race in the minority, so that can explain the low winning ratio, but I think their realism is alot more appealing than their belt competitors....The evo 7 has most of the configurations covered, except for the transverse layout(evo6), and I think that it's very unique.....
Tamiya has all the layouts covered !!!
Hara cheated? What are you talking about? Hara didn't even win it, Shurikarn did using a Tamiya.

As for "shaft drives are slower, they don't have any world titles"... world title races are always mod class. Shaft drives specialise at the spec classes.
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Old 11-10-2017, 05:00 PM
  #254  
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Hara won in 2000, Surikharn won in 2002....
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Old 11-10-2017, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Hara won in 2000, Surikharn won in 2002....
Fair enough, but I find it hard to believe he cheated.
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