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Wrc stx 17

Old 05-22-2017, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by avink007 View Post
It's weird that I never had the issue running a mod 1/12 but running a 21.5 in a WRC car seemed to detrimental. I tapped a board on the sweeper, barely upset the car and then it wouldn't turn, pulled the car and it had a bent steering link. From my experience building the car I am far from impressed with it. Every arm had to be reamed, the steering knuckles didn't fit into the C hubs (they had to be sanded down) the diff leaks and had to be lapped to a flat finish to make it seal, the shocks are the worse shocks I have ever built ( I ended up picking up Yeah racing ones for $25 that built 1000x better). Maybe I got a bad kit, but from what I have seen so far I wouldn't recommend this thing to anyone.
I hear you. It's sure a letdown to pay so much money for a car for parts that dont fit or operate correctly. You seem to have it far worst than my kit. The arms on my kit needed to be reamed as it was almost impossible to insert the shaft, C hubs need to be heated and bent back for the knuckles to fit. My diff held up fine. The included o-ring and paper gasket seem to do the job of keeping the oil inside. The diff doesnt feel as smooth as others tho as I can feel the gears engaging in the diff, its a bit notchy. Shocks werent all THAT bad, but they werent as smooth as others. Im gonna give it a few more runs and see if they free up over time.

Originally Posted by avink007 View Post
The steering rail on mine was pretty bad too. I ended up taking a small fine file and deburring it then went over that with 2000 grit sand paper over the file and wet sanded the inner part of the rail until it was smooth. Trial and error fitting the bearings and testing to see if it was smooth or not. It took a while but it's smooth now.
Thats a bit extreme to file and debur the rails. Im a bit hesitant to do that as this will only introduce more slop to the steering. With the rail out of the car it felt ok and was able to slide around under its own weight. Still not buttery smooth but Im guessing its because the flange on the bearings are rubbing and or digging on the rails. Once its bolted, the rail seems to be tweaked on the chassis and doesnt slide around smoothly.

The tweaks Ive done so far freed up the steering a lot and im confident this should take care of the steering issues, but I do feel that things like this shouldnt happen on a well designed car when parts are manufactured properly.

I wont give up on the car, but as you said, this car isnt for anyone if you dont want to invest in the time in messing with the car, but Im sure the satisfaction you get at the end is rewarding.

Last edited by disaster999; 05-22-2017 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 05-23-2017, 06:04 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
I hear you. It's sure a letdown to pay so much money for a car for parts that dont fit or operate correctly. You seem to have it far worst than my kit. The arms on my kit needed to be reamed as it was almost impossible to insert the shaft, C hubs need to be heated and bent back for the knuckles to fit. My diff held up fine. The included o-ring and paper gasket seem to do the job of keeping the oil inside. The diff doesnt feel as smooth as others tho as I can feel the gears engaging in the diff, its a bit notchy. Shocks werent all THAT bad, but they werent as smooth as others. Im gonna give it a few more runs and see if they free up over time.



Thats a bit extreme to file and debur the rails. Im a bit hesitant to do that as this will only introduce more slop to the steering. With the rail out of the car it felt ok and was able to slide around under its own weight. Still not buttery smooth but Im guessing its because the flange on the bearings are rubbing and or digging on the rails. Once its bolted, the rail seems to be tweaked on the chassis and doesnt slide around smoothly.

The tweaks Ive done so far freed up the steering a lot and im confident this should take care of the steering issues, but I do feel that things like this shouldnt happen on a well designed car when parts are manufactured properly.

I wont give up on the car, but as you said, this car isnt for anyone if you dont want to invest in the time in messing with the car, but Im sure the satisfaction you get at the end is rewarding.
My shocks were that bad, I had to buy different shocks because the threaded height adjuster wouldn't tread onto the body of the shock. The machining was so far off that it physically wouldn't go on. The stock shocks were unusable.

I did the work on the steering rack because I had to. I used a small fine jewelers file so it removed minimal material at a time. My bearings would bind in the rack almost to the point of not moving. I worked on it slowly and didn't induce any excess slop in the steering.
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Old 05-23-2017, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by avink007 View Post
My shocks were that bad, I had to buy different shocks because the threaded height adjuster wouldn't tread onto the body of the shock. The machining was so far off that it physically wouldn't go on. The stock shocks were unusable.

I did the work on the steering rack because I had to. I used a small fine jewelers file so it removed minimal material at a time. My bearings would bind in the rack almost to the point of not moving. I worked on it slowly and didn't induce any excess slop in the steering.
Man you had it rough, my kit was no where near that bad
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Old 05-23-2017, 07:43 AM
  #34  
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Default my impressions

I picked up a well used wrc stx 14 on sunday for very little money. Granted the 17 version is different, but the general impression I get is similar to comments about the 17 version.

My impressions of the 14 are:
1) the entire drive train is a copy of xray (same 38tooth diff and spool, same 20 tooth center pulleys, same length drive shafts, same size belts)- the drive shafts and gear diff were by spec-r and even had the spec-r name painted over (the spec-r double joints are nowhere near as durable as the x-ray ones, and the spec-r gear diff leaks unless you sand it/finish it)
2) the entire suspension is a copy of xray (except the shocks), exactly the same arms, hubs, knuckles, and uprights
3) the front hubs and knuckles require sanding to work smoothly (there is a huge amount of friction)
4) the stock steering rack can get gummed up and it binds if not clean (it is smooth if clean)

Since I have a box of xray parts, I swapped out the entire suspension and drive train with xray parts and it is now free and smooth.

Compared to my t3 that I run in vta, I like the layout and room in the stx much more, but the quality of the parts and finishing required is night and day different. In my opinion, wrc should have just created a conversion for the xray t3/t4 with the chassis, rails, steering rack, shock towers, motor mount and bulkheads. If they priced it at about $150, they would have a winner. This way, they wouldn't have to create molds for plastic parts or substitute spec-r parts, and could have cut and machined all of the required pieces.

In conclusion, if you are comparing the wrc stx 17 to the xray t4 17, spend another $70 and get the xray, or wait for the mugen mtc1, and then decide.

Last edited by billjacobs; 05-23-2017 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 05-23-2017, 01:13 PM
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billjacobs, I here what you're saying I had the STX 14 and thought the same thing. You would think since the STX 17 is the 2nd or 3rd version of this car they would have the kinks worked out by now....
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Old 05-23-2017, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by billjacobs View Post
I picked up a well used wrc stx 14 on sunday for very little money. Granted the 17 version is different, but the general impression I get is similar to comments about the 17 version.

My impressions of the 14 are:
1) the entire drive train is a copy of xray (same 38tooth diff and spool, same 20 tooth center pulleys, same length drive shafts, same size belts)- the drive shafts and gear diff were by spec-r and even had the spec-r name painted over (the spec-r double joints are nowhere near as durable as the x-ray ones, and the spec-r gear diff leaks unless you sand it/finish it)
2) the entire suspension is a copy of xray (except the shocks), exactly the same arms, hubs, knuckles, and uprights
3) the front hubs and knuckles require sanding to work smoothly (there is a huge amount of friction)
4) the stock steering rack can get gummed up and it binds if not clean (it is smooth if clean)

Since I have a box of xray parts, I swapped out the entire suspension and drive train with xray parts and it is now free and smooth.

Compared to my t3 that I run in vta, I like the layout and room in the stx much more, but the quality of the parts and finishing required is night and day different. In my opinion, wrc should have just created a conversion for the xray t3/t4 with the chassis, rails, steering rack, shock towers, motor mount and bulkheads. If they priced it at about $150, they would have a winner. This way, they wouldn't have to create molds for plastic parts or substitute spec-r parts, and could have cut and machined all of the required pieces.

In conclusion, if you are comparing the wrc stx 17 to the xray t4 17, spend another $70 and get the xray, or wait for the mugen mtc1, and then decide.
Originally Posted by The Teacher View Post
billjacobs, I here what you're saying I had the STX 14 and thought the same thing. You would think since the STX 17 is the 2nd or 3rd version of this car they would have the kinks worked out by now....
I do agree with you that the fit and finish of the WRC parts leave much to desire. but to tell WRC they are better of creating a conversion kit for the T4 with everything except the plastic parts and drive shaft and price is at $150 is pretty absurd. I commend them for creating an entire kit on their own but do agree with The Teacher that with the 3rd version of their car out, the same complaints can still be found in the latest version as to their first car.

I dont mind if their plastic parts are very similar to the xray as Im pretty numb with the fact that ALMOST ALL touring cars available now share the same drivetrain and layout. Im not sure if the 17 still share the same arms, C hub, knuckles and upright as the xray, but if they do, at least I know I can get better quality and readily available parts for my car if I do crash *touch wood*.
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Old 05-24-2017, 06:45 AM
  #37  
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Default kits on the market

There are many kits on the market that mimic the traditional belt drive layout (2 belts, battery on one side, electronics on the other.) The problem is that most of these kits are in the $400-$500 range, but the part quality is very different between the kits. If all of the kits required hand finishing, shimming, massaging, it wouldn't make a difference. But when you have some kits that fall together perfectly, and others that require a lot of finishing, and they all basically cost the same, you have an issue.

In the case of wrc, the car has an interesting design, and many innovative features, but it seems the finishing quality lets that design down. As others have stated, it is a shame to pay this much money and then have to hand finish parts. I have owned most brands on the market including: xray, tamiya, kyosho, associated, losi, schumacher, mugen, tekno, vbc, yokomo, corally, etc. The only kits that "fell together" among brands that are currently popular are xray, kyosho, mugen, and tamiya, and among those brands, the ones with reasonable cost and high durability are xray and mugen.

Many US racers want to run a unique chassis, (schumacher, wrc, corally, vbc,) and chase the newest offerings, instead of buying the standbys. It is obviously their choice, but as many of these threads have shown, it is also at their peril.
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Old 05-27-2017, 03:56 AM
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We are using HB bladders and O ring in shocks and feel very good
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:55 AM
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Did more testing this Saturday with new springs and freed up steering rack. The new springs definitely helped the handling a hole bunch as they car didnt bottom out as much. I used Race Opt's Progressive Dynamic 2.5-3.1 springs all round and quite like the feel. Its ALMOST on par with my SMJ/Infinity setup. Im still on a borrowed ESC so settings isnt the best. I few more runs with the car and I think I can have it pretty dialed in.Wuite pleased with it.
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Old 06-03-2017, 08:49 AM
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Finally got my new ESC and properly wired up the car. Took it out to the track this weekend for more testing and tuning and so far its going good. It was especially hot today to the 7000 diff oil I used seemed really thin. I changed it out to 15000 and the rear end felt more planted. The shocks are not really smooth and it feels like the shaft is grinding on the guide bushings. The car still felt alright on the track, but I something must be done to fix that problem.

The rest of the car still felt pretty strong. I still need to mess with the car's setup and the new ESC settings as well. hopefully the car will be fully dialed soon

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Old 07-04-2017, 02:56 AM
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so about a month and a bit of running the car I would like to give an update to the car. So far nothing major has broken on the car. The stock body post is a bit weak and easily snaps off, but a set of xray replacement body posts takes care of that. The settings on the car stays put pretty well, they dont go all out of wack in a hit.

The shocks have freed up a bit after a month, but they still arent as silky smooth as some. I find that the plastic guide pieces arent molded 100% true and have a slight offset on them. I just took a 3mm drill bit to ream out the holes a bit and that freed up the shocks and didnt add any additional play to the shaft. Rebuilding the shocks and getting them to have the right amount of rebound takes a bit of work. I think I the technique down but still needs a bit of fiddling. I managed to puncture the bladders when trying to rebuild the shocks this past weekend at the tracks which kinda screwed me over for the rest of the day, but I somehow managed.

I went to the only LHS that stock parts for this car buying replacement bladders for the shocks the next day and I also check out other parts they have in stock. I was VERY surprised at how expensive some of the parts for this car was, especially the carbon fiber brass pieces and the rear diff. The new motor fan mount which is nothing more than a piece of carbon fiber and a few standoffs costs around 30 bucks. Brass suspension mounts were around the same, ~30 bucks PER PIECE. A complete diff for the TC was around 40 bucks.

The distributor was there was well and I got to talking with him. I told him the prices for the parts are pretty steep which he agrees, but not much he can do when the thats how much they charge in Italy. I also asked him if he has any tips and tricks with the car and he suggested me to widen the rear track of the car to improve the rear stability and suggested me to buy the optional front and rear brace to stiffen the car a bit so it doesnt over turn in corners. Those pieces werent TOO expensive so I decided to give it a try. I will test them out over the weekend and see how that affects the handling and let you guys know.
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Old 07-04-2017, 09:17 AM
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you, my friend, are an exemple of courage. ;-)
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Old 07-04-2017, 06:24 PM
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Thanks, Im willing to give new things a try. This brand has a lot of potential and their nitro cars are winning a lot of European races. If they spend a bit more time perfecting their plastics and find a more economical way of producing spare parts, they surely would attract more customers.
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Old 07-09-2017, 09:09 PM
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Was going to test out the front and rear stiffeners this weekend, but it rained out which was a huge bummer, but that allowed me to work on my cars.

I got the new bladders to replace the one I punctured so decided to rebuilt all my shocks again. I paid closer attention to all the bladders to make sure they arent punctured as well, and to my surprise, 2 other bladders had a hole in it as well. Good thing I checked them again, now the shocks operates pretty smoothly but still getting a lot more rebound than I like...I might drill a small hole on the cap to get zero rebound. The car feels too "springy" at the moment.

Next I went to work on the steering rack, checking to to see if its still not smooth. Somehow the steering rack seems to be broken in and feels pretty smooth. Still not as smooth as I hopped, but a far cry from before.

Finally mounted the front and rear stiffener to the chassis which theoretically reduces the torsional flex on the car, but upon installing it and twisting the car, it felt like it has similar amount of twist as before. I guess I was hoping it reduces the twist by quite a bit. Cant base the performance just by twisting the car tho, I will report back when I get a chance to test it.

While taking the car apart to work on various parts, I noticed an excessive amount of rust on the screws. Pretty disappointed to see how easily they rust, I will be replace them with better hardware.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:51 PM
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So I finally got some decent run time with the car to test out the front and rear brace, and to be honest, I didnt really feel there is a whole lot of difference in the torsional stiffness of the car. With or without the front and rear brace, the car still twisted pretty easily. Handling wise I didnt feel too much of a difference. I still needed more testing as the weather isnt too stable lately.





In other news, Im not sure if its because the shocks used are traditional long skinny shocks instead of the standard big bore short body shocks, or its just been really hot lately, but Im not getting the same damping effect as big bore shocks. With the same piston holes, same oil and same springs, big bore shocks feels significantly more dampened than the WRC shocks. I have drilled out the top cap to reduce rebound and used a 3 hole piston to increase the dampening. The car felt more compliant and doesnt bounce as much, but still not close to big bore shocks. might change to 50wt or 55wt oil. I will also swap in a set of big bore shocks for testing and see if that helps in handling.

I was pretty careful with handling the bladders when I was rebuilding the shocks but, but somehow one of the ripped again and started puking oil everywhere. Its really frustrating to find these bladders rip for no reason. That alone is enough for me to change out the shocks once in for all, if it werent for the stock gold anodizing on the shocks. It really goes well with the car and if only I can find an aftermarket shock with a similar color, I probably would.
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