Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Team Associated 12R6 >

Team Associated 12R6

Like Tree150Likes

Team Associated 12R6

Old 09-25-2017, 01:19 PM
  #106  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: lost...
Posts: 2,867
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EricF View Post
Oh, cool. Yes I'm going. Are going to make it this year? I know it can be hard to justify for you since you guys don't have a place to race anymore.
E
Not this year, maybe next, no $$$, no 12th.

Pro10 with 17.5 sounds interesting for this old man.
RoyU is offline  
Old 09-25-2017, 01:32 PM
  #107  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
gee-dub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Fontana, CA
Posts: 663
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Anyone know if there are any options for retaining the battery via o-ring or something other than tape? Perhaps the Roche plate?
gee-dub is offline  
Old 09-28-2017, 09:33 AM
  #108  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Galloway, NJ
Posts: 31
Default

whats wrong with tape? i use 3m 899 strapping tape. bought 2 rolls for 4$ on ebay. Love this stuff. Same if not better quality that hudy tape
fasteddie48 is offline  
Old 09-28-2017, 11:18 AM
  #109  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,173
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gee-dub View Post
Anyone know if there are any options for retaining the battery via o-ring or something other than tape? Perhaps the Roche plate?
I have some in work. Stay tuned
Mart42 and gee-dub like this.
Korey Harbke is offline  
Old 09-30-2017, 09:40 AM
  #110  
Tech Addict
 
Rugspin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Palm Deset California
Posts: 579
Default

There is a small hole on the side plate.. Drill out and install a 3mm button head screw on the bottom and hook your rubber band around it. You might want to glue the edges of the carbon before drilling to keep from splitting..
Rugspin is offline  
Old 10-02-2017, 08:35 AM
  #111  
Tech Master
 
JustWill75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: DOUGLASVILLE GA.
Posts: 1,800
Default



This is what I did on my F6. I used to run CRC cars back in the day. So I have gotten used to the O-ring retainer.
Nego likes this.
JustWill75 is offline  
Old 10-07-2017, 08:22 AM
  #112  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,378
Trader Rating: 261 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bounce View Post
Sorry for the new guy question, but with the shock built like they say in the manual I can't get to 80.20mm, it's about 3mm too long. Any pointers on how to correct this? Thanks in advance.
Originally Posted by MattW View Post
If you look further into the manual, there's a shock length picture chart. I think for that length, you need the spacer that goes inside, under the piston - it's about 3mm long!!
I'm having the EXACT same problem, and I beg to differ with MattW's assessment. My shock is built exactly to instructions (which does not include the white spacer under the piston) and the shock is 3.1-3.2mm too long (almost exactly 1/8"). Referring to the shock length chart, this setup is described as the "kit setup" which is the longest shock of the four options at 80.2mm with the extension installed and no spacer. The remaining three options should all be shorter than this, various combinations of insalling the spacer and/or removing the extension.

At first I figured I hadn't bottomed the shaft into the shock rod end, but having taken it apart twice now and re-installed it the length remains the same. The only solution I can think of is to shave 3mm off the length of the lower eyelet, but can't help think that's a Band Aid solution.

Help?

Scottrik
Scottrik is offline  
Old 10-07-2017, 11:25 AM
  #113  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (65)
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 3,027
Trader Rating: 65 (100%+)
Default

I ignore the manual on shock length and just adjust the shock to get it to the hole I want to run and the droop I want.
Antimullet is offline  
Old 10-07-2017, 12:00 PM
  #114  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
valk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,130
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

i had the same problem you did with the shock length built per manual. just build the shock with all the parts and the insert. its much easier to get appropriate droop this way around 1.5mm measured with touring car droop blocks.
i also had to shim the shock mount and opposing ball up 2mm to fit my 510r lol. took a bit of monkeying to get all the stuff in the middle of the car.
valk is offline  
Old 10-10-2017, 07:08 AM
  #115  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (75)
 
ZEe_NYC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 896
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

New owner and new to 1/12 scale. Just finishing up the build and have a few questions. I have read Mark Paynes page and it's helped a lot. I just have a few small queries.

> Any way to know what the correct tension of the rear hubs are? I put a piece of paper between the hub and the bearing and it still feels kinda tight.

> I'm assuming I have to cut off the extra piece of plastic on the front hubs? I hand placed a rim on there and it's rubbing.

> any advice on centering the front servo? I have it spot on, by eye... but I want it to be perfect. I'm running a KO PDS 951

> is the kimbrough servo saver good enough to use? I have a CRC carbon fiber servo dave backing plate that I can add to it. (The supplied servo saver happens to fit my servo, as well)

> the manual calls to use the center battery placement location, but it makes the battery float. So I used the 'rear' battery position and the battery fits snugly. Is this ok?

> my kingpin shims were in a different bag. Also, the caster shims were missing.

Thank you, guys. Great car. Super easy and smooth build.
ZEe_NYC is offline  
Old 10-11-2017, 05:35 AM
  #116  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (65)
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 3,027
Trader Rating: 65 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ZEe_NYC View Post
New owner and new to 1/12 scale. Just finishing up the build and have a few questions. I have read Mark Paynes page and it's helped a lot. I just have a few small queries.

> Any way to know what the correct tension of the rear hubs are? I put a piece of paper between the hub and the bearing and it still feels kinda tight.

> I'm assuming I have to cut off the extra piece of plastic on the front hubs? I hand placed a rim on there and it's rubbing.

> any advice on centering the front servo? I have it spot on, by eye... but I want it to be perfect. I'm running a KO PDS 951

> is the kimbrough servo saver good enough to use? I have a CRC carbon fiber servo dave backing plate that I can add to it. (The supplied servo saver happens to fit my servo, as well)

> the manual calls to use the center battery placement location, but it makes the battery float. So I used the 'rear' battery position and the battery fits snugly. Is this ok?

> my kingpin shims were in a different bag. Also, the caster shims were missing.

Thank you, guys. Great car. Super easy and smooth build.
Rear hubs just a ever so small touch of side play. Just so you can barely feel it.

I cut my steering knuckles for the same reason.

I just eyeball the servo and then measure it with calipers.

Kimbrough has worked fine for me. I normally use X-ray but it doesn’t fit well on this rig.

Battery back is what I always run for better weight transfer and more steering.

You can use motor rotor shims for caster shims.

Roche also makes aluminum ones that are nice.
ZEe_NYC likes this.
Antimullet is offline  
Old 10-16-2017, 07:08 PM
  #117  
Tech Addict
 
Rugspin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Palm Deset California
Posts: 579
Default

Here is a great servo setup system for pan car

https://westcoastrcworks.us/collecti...o-setup-system

Kimbrough is too soft and won't give you the steering you want. Go with Tamiya for the servo saver. As good as the x-ray but fits...

Battery placement will depend on the steering that you want in the car. I use a more forward position on black carpet.. just tape it in it will stay in place
ZEe_NYC and silden like this.
Rugspin is offline  
Old 10-18-2017, 06:01 PM
  #118  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
 
silden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 971
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default Optional Parts from WestCoastRCworks.us

I like to share some pictures of upcoming products for the #TeamAE #12R6 Pan-Car westcoastrsworks.us #BlackCarpetEdition

Team Associated 12R6-bls671sv_i_servo_mounting_plate.pngTeam Associated 12R6-rsx12_servo_mounting_plate.jpgTeam Associated 12R6-s96x0_servo_mounting_plate.jpgTeam Associated 12R6-srg-hx_servo_mounting_plate.png
Antimullet likes this.
silden is offline  
Old 10-20-2017, 08:43 PM
  #119  
Tech Master
iTrader: (50)
 
tommy911t's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,189
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Default

Are there quick ways to remove the black and blue anno from the parts? Or is it just elbow grease?
Also, Is it possible the chassis could warp from poishing?

Thanks for any suggestions.

-Tommy
tommy911t is offline  
Old 10-21-2017, 07:02 AM
  #120  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (65)
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 3,027
Trader Rating: 65 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tommy911t View Post
Are there quick ways to remove the black and blue anno from the parts? Or is it just elbow grease?
Also, Is it possible the chassis could warp from poishing?

Thanks for any suggestions.

-Tommy
You can get anodizing remover from an anodizing shop online. Just be careful if you leave it on too long itíll eat the metal component down.
tommy911t likes this.
Antimullet is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.