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Old 09-18-2018, 08:13 AM
  #286  
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Speaking of 1984 its time to update that huge transponder...Its bigger than your ESC
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Old 09-18-2018, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Rugspin View Post
Speaking of 1984 its time to update that huge transponder...Its bigger than your ESC
-Good enough for Adam Drake, good enough for me.
-Perfect chassis balance.
-Ain't broke, no need to fix.
-On the list.
-Funds allocated for other items.

Take your pick...
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:01 PM
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I have a (3) race day old roller available. Raced only on black carpet. Many spares as well. $175.00
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:26 PM
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Just ordered a kit, any build tips?
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:14 PM
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Get some 16mm counter sunk screws and m3 locknuts to put the front end together if you hit things. Otherwise it all goes pretty much per manual.
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Megatron328 View Post
Just ordered a kit, any build tips?
In the manual, there is a "Racers Tip" to CA glue your pivot ball bushing into the lower suspension arm. Highly recommend doing this, plus the tip that Valk gave above. If you are not new to 1/12 scale and don't smack much stuff it won't be an issue - I haven't done this and, knock on wood, haven't had an issue yet. Go ahead and order the 12R6 rear axle inserts that Chris Kerswell designed from Shapeways. These things save rear bearings and are worth their cost in bearings through one race day. And as Valk stated, everything is pretty much straightforward. AE's kit quality has really increased over the last few years.

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Old 10-12-2018, 02:03 PM
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Agree with gluing the inserts into the front arms, I would recommend putting the ball into the insert before gluing in. It seems that this is better for "play" and keeping the front end together, It seems that if you put the ball into the insert after it's in the arm, it can deform the insert very slightly, and leave you more likely to popping the ball out in an accident. If you do pop a ball out, you can get quite a bit of play form then.
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Old 10-12-2018, 04:12 PM
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Thanks for the tips.
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Old 10-14-2018, 12:04 PM
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i dont think id glue the pivot block in, but maybe a dab of locktite.. those pivots tend to pull out a lot in crashes and if they do this enough they get deformed and then you have to cut them out ect. the biggest issues ive had with my r6 since launch is mainly the front arm standoffs bending in a crash, which the throughscrew fixes, and the pivot balls popping out of their sockets. ive been told the roche pivots are a tighter fit. you could also maybe use r5 kingpins/steering blocks and front pivots to tighten things up a bit.
also with the shock, its a little vague in the manual on the lengths. id say you pretty much have to use the little insert inside the shock otherwise its just way too long to get the right droop. i suppose without the insert you could remove the extender and run the shock short and use the rearmost hole but meh. i have it with the extender and insert, and using the second forward hole.im sure a higher up team mate could chime in and tell me why you should run the shock shorter, but this is just my own experience =)

i should also add, the springs that come in the kit are great to start out with but most people will be running softer side spings and stiffer center springs. most of the setups on black carpet ive seen use .18 front and side springs and the yellow center spring with stiffer oil than the kit specifies. kevens iic setup works extremely well! also with the center pivot on the pod floating as it is, you can mess around with shims under the side links to get some neat effects of rear steer ect.
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Old 10-15-2018, 02:08 PM
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Never said to CA glue the pivot block - and yes, DON'T do that. This is what I'm talking about.



the manual tells you exactly what to set the shock length as, however, I run a blue spring with a length of 79.5-79.6mm. I also run the 3.9 side springs and 0.18 front springs. I also run 10k diff lube in my side dampers, this may or may not work for you. . .



Go to page 12 of the manual for more specific build and mounting options - if you are running on CRC carpet with HIGH traction try the shortest version and go from there. However, build it kit and go from there. It's up to you, and finding a setup that works for you and your driving style is the key. You may want to run a rear axle spool after a while, maybe not... that's the fun part of these cars, not very expensive to try different things.

Most importantly have fun with the car and talk with other racers at the track, you'll get a lot of insight that way, new ideas and tips on what works where YOU race. Plus make some friends to boot.
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Old 10-15-2018, 02:24 PM
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And, I'm not a higher up team mate, but my "limited" understanding is the smoother the surface/higher traction you want to run a shorter shock. The lower traction/bumpier surface you would want the longer shock action.

So outdoor asphalt would = longest shock, soft spring, little bit thicker oil with the two hole piston.
CRC carpet with medium high to high traction = short shock, firmer spring, lighter oil and one hole piston.

And of course, I could have this all bass-ackwards, too. And again, it's your car to change - I would definitely take valk's advice and use a setup from one of the team drivers and go from there. Most the changes to these little cars don't cost anything or much to change.
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Old 10-15-2018, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by aracefan View Post
Never said to CA glue the pivot block - and yes, DON'T do that. This is what I'm talking about.

That literally says to permanently glue the pivot block/bushing into the arm.
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Old 10-15-2018, 03:10 PM
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I know, right...? I think he thought I meant the center pivot block, that the rear pod pivots on - no biggie. Yeah, the o-rings kind of suck, and I have yet to pull out a pivot ball bushing, or bend a standoff (and I have two R6's and two F6's). I''m guessing you have to have pretty substantial contact with a wall, or maybe a good punt, to bend those. Watch, next time I race I'll probably bend one in every heat! Hahahaha!!
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Old 10-15-2018, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by aracefan View Post
I know, right...? I think he thought I meant the center pivot block, that the rear pod pivots on - no biggie. Yeah, the o-rings kind of suck, and I have yet to pull out a pivot ball bushing, or bend a standoff (and I have two R6's and two F6's). I''m guessing you have to have pretty substantial contact with a wall, or maybe a good punt, to bend those. Watch, next time I race I'll probably bend one in every heat! Hahahaha!!
I've bent standoffs on both my F6 and R6. The F6 was only after a couple laps, didn't hit any walls, just traction rolled which caused it to roll over a couple of times.
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Old 10-15-2018, 03:30 PM
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I must be going too slow!! That sucks though, guess I've been pretty lucky so far... my day is coming.
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