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Team Associated 12R6

Old 12-20-2017, 02:30 PM
  #211  
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I had problems with the front standoffs after a crash. They would bend or strip out. I use 16mm screws all the way though with a locknut on top. Its a pain to change ride height but rarely do i. I start my tires bg enough i have almost 4 mm and by the time i hit 3mm the tires are done.
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Old 12-26-2017, 05:04 AM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by Serzoni View Post
Mine weren't noticeably sloppy, but if you want a tighter fit just score the mating surfaces of the adjusters with an xacto knife.
We have a complete solution for this. Chris Kerswell a leading driver here in the UK designed these that are available to us all at Shapeways:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/EC...li=marketplace

We have tested the white ones in the UK team. We do not think the black option ones will come out with different tollerence but my black set are on the way.

This is how the part should have been. The insert properly sits in the whole bulkhead and completely seats the bearing also.

Enjoy and thanks to Chris "Crisis" Kerswell.




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Old 12-26-2017, 06:51 AM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by Mark Payne View Post
We have a complete solution for this. Chris Kerswell a leading driver here in the UK designed these that are available to us all at Shapeways:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/EC...li=marketplace

We have tested the white ones in the UK team. We do not think the black option ones will come out with different tollerence but my black set are on the way.

This is how the part should have been. The insert properly sits in the whole bulkhead and completely seats the bearing also.

Enjoy and thanks to Chris "Crisis" Kerswell.




M
Does this take a flanged bearing?
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Old 12-26-2017, 01:31 PM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
Does this take a flanged bearing?
Yeah standard flanged bearings.
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Old 12-27-2017, 04:08 AM
  #215  
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Default Full detail on the bearing holders

Hopefully this will complete the story here:

Mark Payne's 1/12th Scale RC Notes: Improved Rear Bearing Holders

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Old 12-27-2017, 01:20 PM
  #216  
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I guess way bother with the standoffs, just replace them with the old ride height shims. It is easy to just measure the height of the standoff. can add the shims accordingly.

Originally Posted by valk View Post
I had problems with the front standoffs after a crash. They would bend or strip out. I use 16mm screws all the way though with a locknut on top. Its a pain to change ride height but rarely do i. I start my tires bg enough i have almost 4 mm and by the time i hit 3mm the tires are done.
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Old 12-27-2017, 05:23 PM
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You could do that, but that would be a whole load of shims.
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Old 12-28-2017, 12:37 AM
  #218  
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a bunch of shims assumes your clamping force will be enough to keep the whole thing rigid enough to not move in a crash or just high corning force ect..hitting the wall could create an angle ect.
the standoff gives some rigidity be clamping the screw to the chassis, then you just slip the suspension assembly over the screws and clamp down with appropriate washers and locknuts. though i suppose you could use some thin nuts to secure the screw as the old style football was secured but meh. the standoffs are already threaded. the cheapest alternative is to just not hit stuff.. but the best of times the screws that clamp it all together have such a small amount of engagement it doesn't take much over torquing or incident with boards to strip them. the more ride height shims you have to use the more likely you will bend the standoffs i think. maybe my solution isn't blingy or elegant but you have to finish races to win them.
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Old 12-29-2017, 02:19 PM
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Aren't the threads opposite direction on the standoff top and bottom
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Old 12-29-2017, 03:21 PM
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Not once u turn the screw over
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Old 01-06-2018, 09:51 PM
  #221  
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That bag 3.1was pretty tough. You had to pay attention to orientation of the part. The parts so friggin small I dropped some a couple times but found them. Clear white spacers are tiny. The orientation to set the active castor with those black clips was ridiculous for my fat fingers. I had to take it apart a couple times cause I put things on backwards. Especially getting the CF arms right with the small tab at the top. It was a challenge but got it done. Can't imagine a 14 year old building this front end. He would lose parts and bolt things up in reverse.
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Old 01-07-2018, 04:59 PM
  #222  
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Get some of the red aluminum Roche caster spacers. Work great.
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Old 01-09-2018, 07:21 PM
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Done looks good. 2 things In the manual it sez to just e-clip the top of the kingpins but there is room for like 3 spacers on the camber ball should I shim them up or leave it. Also I lost one of the front track spacers. The small ones that slide in the CF arm. The stock one has 3 dots on it. Since I couldn't find it I used the 2 dots which I believe changed the track from 0 to.5. What the difference when you change that width. What will the car do differently

Last edited by Bubonic-X; 01-09-2018 at 07:24 PM. Reason: Error
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Old 01-10-2018, 05:01 AM
  #224  
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I would suggest shimming the king pins to take out any float - you don't want any float here, a lot of people use even more shims to put some pre load onto the spring.

Personally I use the 2 dot wishbone insert anyway, I prefer the front end a little wider.
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Old 01-10-2018, 09:17 AM
  #225  
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
Done looks good. 2 things In the manual it sez to just e-clip the top of the kingpins but there is room for like 3 spacers on the camber ball should I shim them up or leave it. Also I lost one of the front track spacers. The small ones that slide in the CF arm. The stock one has 3 dots on it. Since I couldn't find it I used the 2 dots which I believe changed the track from 0 to.5. What the difference when you change that width. What will the car do differently
I use 2 additional shims on my kingpin. It depends on if you want droop in the front or not.

By increasing your front track width you would be slowing your steering response and slightly decreases front grip.
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