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Old 03-13-2018, 09:34 AM   -   Wikipost
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Mugen MTC1 Wiki:

MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site.

Correction for the manual




The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined.

64p = 127 to 164 total teeth


48p = 95 to 120 total teeth


People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear:

1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.

2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw

3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit.
Make the same with the second free Thread.


4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder.
Now you see two marks absolutely central.


5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places

6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.


Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern

1. Axon
2. Panaracer


Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws):

When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic.

Hara's Setup


Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup

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Old 01-14-2018, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fmm View Post
Thank you! I heard that Haraís setup works better... but I donít know which one
Stock= a bit unstable in the rear
Hara= Too stable in the rear
Take your pick.
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Old 01-15-2018, 05:22 AM
  #1247  
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Stock= a bit unstable in the rear
Hara= Too stable in the rear
Take your pick.
Thank you. In my local track, we typically some very stable rear end.

Which Hara setup are you talking about?

Thanks
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Old 01-15-2018, 07:15 AM
  #1248  
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This looks like an awesome idea - hopefully it can be adapted to fit other chassis.
SPR08 - Body Support Set ? AWESOMATIX
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Old 01-15-2018, 07:46 AM
  #1249  
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
This looks like an awesome idea - hopefully it can be adapted to fit other chassis.
SPR08 - Body Support Set ? AWESOMATIX
1-8th nitro uses this concept on the rear. I wonder how it will feel on an electric tc?
Seems to transfer aero load directly to the tires without influencing the suspension.
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Old 01-15-2018, 08:02 AM
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Having this system on the front of a TC might be a significant advantage - I thought this type of thing was an illegal aerodynamic aid?
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Old 01-15-2018, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
Having this system on the front of a TC might be a significant advantage - I thought this type of thing was an illegal aerodynamic aid?
I think it's completely legal.

It doesn't fall on the movable aero, quite the contrary it's immovable. It's not active it's reactive... 1/8th nitro cars have something that works almost the same but far more fancy, really the governing bodies have no leg to stand on.
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Old 01-15-2018, 04:39 PM
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That makes it a must have then.
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Old 01-15-2018, 07:14 PM
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It looks like the design is quite primitive though. They need to be careful so that the wires don't rotate to touch the tires. Yeah 1/8 nitro one is a lot more "sophisticated" but it won't work in 10th scale.
Primitive yet simple and brilliant. If it proves to be a must in Awesomatix, other companies will come out something similar I guess.
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Old 01-15-2018, 07:44 PM
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One roll over and I can see those pins bent to hell. Also if you are using pro-lite bodies be prepared to have them poke through
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Old 01-15-2018, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
One roll over and I can see those pins bent to hell. Also if you are using pro-lite bodies be prepared to have them poke through
I have them on order, disaster999 - we'll see what happens
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Old 01-17-2018, 02:25 PM
  #1256  
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Default Rebuilding diff

Hi all,

Silly question:
I am rebuilding the diff, but I am unable extract the spider gears and the shaft from the alloy diff housing. How should I do it? I donít want to pull out hardly... just in case I am missing something

Thank you in advance
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Old 01-17-2018, 06:54 PM
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That doesn't make any sense. it should be very easy. Try to turn outdrive when the casing is open. Unless there's some sort of binding, the spider gears and the shafts will slowly separate from the main gear. Then use flat screwdriver to lift. Sometimes with very thick oil (like a million), it feels very hard to separate but it shouldn't do any damage when you use the flat driver.
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Old 01-18-2018, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by fmm View Post
Hi all,

Silly question:
I am rebuilding the diff, but I am unable extract the spider gears and the shaft from the alloy diff housing. How should I do it? I donít want to pull out hardly... just in case I am missing something

Thank you in advance
The small (spider) gears and that cross just pulls out with a little force, the alloy housing have a notch in the fingers to prevent the spider gear from falling off when assembling the gear.

The big (ring) gear is a little tricky to get of where you need an narrow pick with its tip bent 90 degree. Slide the tip of the pick behind the ring gear and pull. This should free it from the shaft and all you need is some needle nose pliers to pull the metal pin and your whole diff should be disassembled.
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Old 01-18-2018, 07:24 AM
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I use a spring puller to get it out.
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Old 01-18-2018, 06:37 PM
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Alumn 7075.it Chassis back in stock!

EA
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