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Mugen MTC1

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Mugen MTC1 Wiki:

MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site.

Correction for the manual




The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined.

64p = 127 to 164 total teeth


48p = 95 to 120 total teeth


People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear:

1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.

2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw

3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit.
Make the same with the second free Thread.


4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder.
Now you see two marks absolutely central.


5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places

6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.


Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern

1. Axon
2. Panaracer


Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws):

When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic.

Hara's Setup


Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup

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Old 12-04-2017, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Antimullet View Post
Attachment 1452325

Hopefully you can read my chicken scratch.

On this one I played with upper links but it took some steering out

Prior to this upper links in stock positions and lowers as they are shown are good.

I’ll end up somewhere in the middle after more testing.
Your car's front arms angle forward. How's that working out for you? And the rear arms angle rearward. I noticed that Hara put angle in the back like that once but not in the front.
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:30 PM
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Snuvet the diagram is misleading and IMO labeled wrong. They are actually not pointing in or out. They are all wider and higher pin settings I just filled the dots in to read the proper label of +0.5 etcetera.


The labels should all have positive or negative on the same side and they don’t so it’s a jacked up drawing on the setup sheet.

I’ll go see if I can modify the setup sheet in the am and post an electronic version.
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Antimullet View Post
Snuvet the diagram is misleading and IMO labeled wrong. They are actually not pointing in or out. They are all wider and higher pin settings I just filled the dots in to read the proper label of +0.5 etcetera.


The labels should all have positive or negative on the same side and they don’t so it’s a jacked up drawing on the setup sheet.

I’ll go see if I can modify the setup sheet in the am and post an electronic version.
Oh I remember you guys talked about it vaguely months ago. So what you're saying is the diagrams for the inserts is the view from the front for FF and the rear for FR?
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by The Teacher View Post
So after another awesome night of racing with the MTC1 I find myself with a serious problem....I need more corner speed!!! When I look at video of my car vs other fast cars it looks as though my car does not transition from side to side fast enough. I'm thinking thicker sway bars might help but wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts??? Currently I'm running on black CRC carpet, super high bite. I'm running 600cst oil with 4 hole pistons with progressive 2.5 - 2.8 springs up front with 2.6 springs in the rear. What do you guys think...?
For more corner speed I would drop the differential oil down to 3k.
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:10 AM
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Exactly snuvet!
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by The Teacher View Post
So after another awesome night of racing with the MTC1 I find myself with a serious problem....I need more corner speed!!! When I look at video of my car vs other fast cars it looks as though my car does not transition from side to side fast enough. I'm thinking thicker sway bars might help but wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts??? Currently I'm running on black CRC carpet, super high bite. I'm running 600cst oil with 4 hole pistons with progressive 2.5 - 2.8 springs up front with 2.6 springs in the rear. What do you guys think...?
IMHO, If you are talking about esses, thinner shock oil. If general corners, it sounds like scrubbing but more detail would be needed on which section of corner u have trouble, if the car pushes or oversteers,etc.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:26 AM
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The Racing Shop - racing factory Mugen A2502 - MTC-1 - Mugen verstärkte Dämpferbrücke hinten Carbon A2502-trf-MTC1

New rear shock tower
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:10 AM
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whats so special about this "new" shock tower compared with stock?
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Old 12-06-2017, 04:44 AM
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Thicker
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:15 AM
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is there a problem with the stock towers breaking?
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:59 AM
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I think it’s more of a flex issue.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
is there a problem with the stock towers breaking?
Mine started to delaminate at some parts, probably from flipping over too much. Ive soaked it with CA and clamped it tight and seems to be holding for now. A thicker shock tower should withstand flips much better
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:04 PM
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Hey Guys not sure if this was talked about , the inner lip on my caster blocks have sheered off , I don't recall having any hard crashes is this normal?
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:41 PM
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Mine are both broken as well. Looking at the mechanics of things, I don’t know hat it has any effect?
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Old 12-07-2017, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by carkillaii View Post
Hey Guys not sure if this was talked about , the inner lip on my caster blocks have sheered off , I don't recall having any hard crashes is this normal?
I also had one sheer off.
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