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Mugen MTC1

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Mugen MTC1 Wiki:

MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site.

Correction for the manual




The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined.

64p = 127 to 164 total teeth


48p = 95 to 120 total teeth


People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear:

1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.

2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw

3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit.
Make the same with the second free Thread.


4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder.
Now you see two marks absolutely central.


5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places

6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.


Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern

1. Axon
2. Panaracer


Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws):

When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic.

Hara's Setup


Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup

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Old 10-31-2017, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer View Post
I tied the steering arms down and going to try it today with the flex deck. Running 13.5 blinky. Just a practice day on black carpet.
Tried it out, car flexes way too much still. Time to wait it out for the Mugen pieces.
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Old 10-31-2017, 05:44 PM
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How about speed asking because they said the yokomo were very sluggish with 1.7 ratio?
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Old 10-31-2017, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by carkillaii View Post
How about speed asking because they said the yokomo were very sluggish with 1.7 ratio?


No at all sluggish here with mine at all . In fact it's the complete opposite with me . Awesome car
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Old 10-31-2017, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by carkillaii View Post
How about speed asking because they said the yokomo were very sluggish with 1.7 ratio?
Car seems fine, no different than my last car with a similar ratio. I suspect some of the ratio has to do with making the diffs smaller so they could be lower.

Rough estimation is that they are ~2mm lower than Xray diffs in the same position.
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Old 10-31-2017, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by carkillaii View Post
How about speed asking because they said the yokomo were very sluggish with 1.7 ratio?
same here, my car didnt feel sluggish at all coming out of the corners. it has the same speed and pick up as other cars with 1.9 or 2 ratio
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Old 10-31-2017, 10:20 PM
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My car in testing, I was running 12.1’s today with 13.5 in blinky with a 5.4 fdr. This is what’s spec’d for what I run at my local track. The track I was visited ngtoday said that they usually run 11.4-11.5’s in 13.5 non-blinky with an open fdr. So for the chassis flex issues I was having, a half second off I don’t think is too terrible. The speed will Be there once I get the aluminum chassis. Also I think the car needs stiffer front springs, maybe some 550 and 1 step up on the front sway bar.
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Old 11-01-2017, 02:30 AM
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GrandeGixxer, where were you testing...somewhere in MD? I tried my car last weekend at 180 with the alloy chassis and it was horrible! Made some changes that I think will help so we will see this week.
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:01 AM
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I was at Windy City rc in Chicago. I ran at 180 the week before and it was really bad the more bite came up. The front, even with the steering tied together just bites way too hard. Which aluminum chassis did you get?
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:09 AM
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If you take the stock topdeck and drill a hole where one of the Servo plate mounts are and then tie the topdeck down there and at the steering it increases stiffness even more.

I also went to X-ray 2.5-2.8 front and associated blue rear springs and then went up one rate on both sway bars. Car works great now.
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Old 11-01-2017, 06:40 AM
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Alright, now that I know you are having issues tuning the car let's make a base setup sheet to build upon. Going to need someone to take measurements from the car, weight bias, arm geometry and spring/roll bar dimensions.
Who volunteers?
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
Alright, now that I know you are having issues tuning the car let's make a base setup sheet to build upon. Going to need someone to take measurements from the car, weight bias, arm geometry and spring/roll bar dimensions.
Who volunteers?
Do a search for Hara's setup. Here is a snapshot of it.


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Old 11-01-2017, 09:13 AM
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Here's my current setup.

Mugen MTC1-mtc1_setupsheet_moore_ho_b_max.jpg
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:16 AM
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Thanks for the sheets but I idn't made myself clear. I'm going to reverse engineer the car and correct the issues about the setup. For that I need some measurements, nothing complicated
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Old 11-01-2017, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer View Post
I was at Windy City rc in Chicago. I ran at 180 the week before and it was really bad the more bite came up. The front, even with the steering tied together just bites way too hard. Which aluminum chassis did you get?
I ran last Sunday at Windy City in USGT with the 7075.it chassis. Tried both the stock flex top deck and the solid top deck. WCRC is not super bitey right now, and the flex top deck worked pretty well. Solid top deck would probably be good as well, with a few screws out of the chassis. Flex deck was working so I didn't go back to the solid deck.

Stock lower is too soft. The car would be good one lap and then surprise you on the next one.

This was based off the Hara Yatabe setup, but I have been changing some stuff as I go along. Hara's setup is a very good place to start. (21.5 is not as fast as mod...)
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Old 11-01-2017, 04:37 PM
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Ya, I was running 13.5. It would lift the inside front going in and the inside rear coming out. Pretty unpredictable once the tires heat up.
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