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Mugen MTC1

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Mugen MTC1 Wiki:

MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site.

Correction for the manual




The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined.

64p = 127 to 164 total teeth


48p = 95 to 120 total teeth


People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear:

1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.

2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw

3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit.
Make the same with the second free Thread.


4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder.
Now you see two marks absolutely central.


5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places

6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.


Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern

1. Axon
2. Panaracer


Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws):

When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic.

Hara's Setup


Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup

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Old 10-19-2017, 07:56 AM
  #1006  
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Originally Posted by Slideaway View Post
Hello there,

Meeting serious play on the front knuckles (cast block if you prefer).
The 2 5x8 bearings are wobbling quite a lot (especially the bottom ones) and the all post is a little to long as it slides along the bottom screw.

My solution that seems to works like a charm, use some Tamiya Anti Wear grease or the stickiest grease you can ever find to "suck" the extra gap around the bearings and use a 0.2mm/5mm diameter shim to catch the sliding gap.
Remove the exceeding grease once the bearings are in place to avoid catching dust or other shizzz.

Gently tight the bottom screw upon contact and check the freedom of movement.

Boom !



I got the same design problem with my Project 4X... Manufacturers prefer to put bearing where it is not needed, just because bushings are cheap...

These parts are not rotating (only 60° potentially), you should simply go for the brass bushing equivalent of this bearings...
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Old 10-21-2017, 06:11 PM
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I ran the car for the first time today on crc black carpet. The higher the grip got, the worse the car was. It wanted to lift the inside rear. Just way too much flex in the car. Ready for the aluminum chassis and 1 piece top deck.
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Old 10-21-2017, 07:17 PM
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I tried the new one piece top deck today and it was great. You may not need an alum. chassis, try the top deck first.
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Old 10-21-2017, 07:22 PM
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I'll be posting one for sale on monday. Listing and photos to come. Let me know if interested.
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Old 10-22-2017, 07:42 AM
  #1010  
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I had my first club race yesterday with the MTC1. Apart from having 6000cst in the diff everything was an out of the box asphalt setup. The car ran very nice and stable and was easy to drive.
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Old 10-22-2017, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer View Post
I ran the car for the first time today on crc black carpet. The higher the grip got, the worse the car was. It wanted to lift the inside rear. Just way too much flex in the car. Ready for the aluminum chassis and 1 piece top deck.
I made a one piece top deck and it still flexed too much. I then tied the steering to both the chassis and top deck and it eliminated the flex.

Tie your steering down. I put pics of it on the Facebook mtc1 site.

This is on crc high bite black carpet.
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Old 10-22-2017, 11:33 AM
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Aaron, I don’t have the capabilities to make my own parts unfortunately. What parts did you use to connect to the top deck also? Actually to the servo mount.
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Old 10-22-2017, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by lbckevin View Post
I tried the new one piece top deck today and it was great. You may not need an alum. chassis, try the top deck first.
I ran it on CRC black with just the solid top deck for several weeks and finally got a 7075.it aluminum chassis on it this week.


Get the aluminum chassis. There is no comparison.
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Old 10-22-2017, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
I ran it on CRC black with just the solid top deck for several weeks and finally got a 7075.it aluminum chassis on it this week.


Get the aluminum chassis. There is no comparison.
Do you also run with the 7075.it aluminium topdeck?

Duuuh, scratch that, there is none...
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Old 10-23-2017, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MGU View Post
Do you also run with the 7075.it aluminium topdeck?

Duuuh, scratch that, there is none...
What do you mean? There is a 7075 alu top deck....
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Old 10-23-2017, 05:52 AM
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In all it's glory...

Fenix long upper deck... of course there is also the short one

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Old 10-23-2017, 07:18 AM
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Ran/raced mine finally. Other than me being rusty and the track being a little unpredictable, the car was great. We're still on gray carpet. The car is definitely durable as it took a few solid hits. After not driving a Sedan for at least a couple of years, I was able to hold my own and run within a couple tenths of the local hot shoe. I'm still waiting for a fan mount to be available in the US that doesn't cost 4 times more than it's value to ship it here. We're not pushing the chassis as hard as we are running a 21.5 class, which is about 1 second slower than the 17.5 and a lot easier to drive, so I didn't notice any strange chassis flex characteristics. Again, gray carpet, not black and the chassis wasn't being pushed to its max.
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:27 AM
  #1018  
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Originally Posted by Stein Tumert View Post
What do you mean? There is a 7075 alu top deck....
Are you sure? I could not find one and thought I had mixed it up with the Fenix version.
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer View Post
Aaron, I don’t have the capabilities to make my own parts unfortunately. What parts did you use to connect to the top deck also? Actually to the servo mount.
I screwed my one piece top deck to the servo Mount.

I also left the steering arm screws in from the bottom of the chassis, then added screws from the top of the servo mount down through the steering arms to tie that all together. Eliminates all flex. To take up the space for the top screws just under the servo mount I threaded on locknuts and ran them down to the top of the steering arms to where there was no play.
Mugen MTC1-mugen-mod1.jpg

Mugen MTC1-mugen-mod-2.jpg
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Last edited by Antimullet; 10-23-2017 at 08:54 AM.
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
I ran it on CRC black with just the solid top deck for several weeks and finally got a 7075.it aluminum chassis on it this week.


Get the aluminum chassis. There is no comparison.
Rob, where’d You order the 7075it chassis from?
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