759LikesMugen MTC1
03-13-2018, 09:34 AM - Wikipost
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Mugen MTC1 Wiki:
MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site. Correction for the manual   The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined. 64p = 127 to 164 total teeth  48p = 95 to 120 total teeth  People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear: 1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.  2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw  3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit. Make the same with the second free Thread.  4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder. Now you see two marks absolutely central.  5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places  6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.  Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern 1. Axon 2. Panaracer Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws): When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic. Hara's Setup  Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup 
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09-24-2017, 10:39 PM
#902
Can you share your setup?
Thanks!
Thanks!
I have the car for 17.5 racing. I had a great race last week at the Activ Rc race at the Tamiya USA track. Home of the Reedy Race. The car was on pace with all of the awesomatix, xray and Tc7.1 sedans. I was the only MTC1 in the A main. We had an A,B, C, D main in 17.5. I only had two practice packs on the car before qualifying started. All racers were on spec Rush 36 premount tires. The only change from the stock asphalt setup was a set of springs. I was offered to run a different set of springs from AJ. He ran his MTC1 in mod. I ran the SMJ 2.5-2.8 front springs and Xray 2.6 rears. The car was on rails and super fast thru the S turns coming onto the straight. I loved it and cant wait to race it again.
Just for reference... In the A main were no chumps :
3 Tamiya TCS National Champions
Reedy Race Open mod champion
2 Reedy Race champions in 17.5 ( one is myself)
2 Reedy open mod A main finalists
2 13.5 Reedy a main finalists.
Just for reference... In the A main were no chumps :
3 Tamiya TCS National Champions
Reedy Race Open mod champion
2 Reedy Race champions in 17.5 ( one is myself)
2 Reedy open mod A main finalists
2 13.5 Reedy a main finalists.
09-25-2017, 03:36 AM
#903
I had a look at one of Atsushi Hara's setup sheet and the front settings for antidive caught my attention.
If I do not read this wrong, he move FF out 1° and FR IN 1° which gives him 2 degress of toe-out which I somehow doubt.
Taking a look at the rear he moves out on RR and in on RF, which would normally result in increased toe-in. Is it possible that this is a miss-entry and RF is really moved out by 0.5° and not in?
Which would then also mean something different for the front?
I am a little bit lost here.
If I do not read this wrong, he move FF out 1° and FR IN 1° which gives him 2 degress of toe-out which I somehow doubt.
Taking a look at the rear he moves out on RR and in on RF, which would normally result in increased toe-in. Is it possible that this is a miss-entry and RF is really moved out by 0.5° and not in?
Which would then also mean something different for the front?
I am a little bit lost here.
Last edited by MGU; 09-25-2017 at 04:15 AM.
09-25-2017, 04:45 AM
#905
I had a look at one of Atsushi Hara's setup sheet and the front settings for antidive caught my attention.
If I do not read this wrong, he move FF out 1° and FR IN 1° which gives him 2 degress of toe-out which I somehow doubt.
Taking a look at the rear he moves out on RR and in on RF, which would normally result in increased toe-in. Is it possible that this is a miss-entry and RF is really moved out by 0.5° and not in?
Which would then also mean something different for the front?
I am a little bit lost here.
If I do not read this wrong, he move FF out 1° and FR IN 1° which gives him 2 degress of toe-out which I somehow doubt.
Taking a look at the rear he moves out on RR and in on RF, which would normally result in increased toe-in. Is it possible that this is a miss-entry and RF is really moved out by 0.5° and not in?
Which would then also mean something different for the front?
I am a little bit lost here.
09-25-2017, 04:57 AM
#906
09-25-2017, 02:43 PM
#908
I built my kit per the stock instructions for asphalt. I used the stock shock oils ( 450cst) and 3000 rear diff oil. The only changes were to run the diffs in the up position and I changed the springs. I used SMJ 2.5-2.8 progressive springs up front and Xray 2.6 rear springs. I borrowed these from a fellow racer and it made a huge difference. The stock springs were not as consistent at the Tamiya USA track. I did have alot of time between heats, so I checked the rear diff fluid. It was clear but very empty. There was no real leakage, so I refilled it to the line and re-installed everything. That was a big deal as the diff now worked when it had fluid in it.
The only other tip came from my friend. I did the caster wrong. I did not realize that the picture in the manual is reversed so I had the caster flipped and the car was soo hard to drive, too responsive and the back end was loose. When i corrected it, it was much easier to drive. After that is when I checked the rear diff and it was low.
The only other tip came from my friend. I did the caster wrong. I did not realize that the picture in the manual is reversed so I had the caster flipped and the car was soo hard to drive, too responsive and the back end was loose. When i corrected it, it was much easier to drive. After that is when I checked the rear diff and it was low.
09-26-2017, 11:32 PM
#913
Attached you will find a color coded gear chart for 48dP
09-27-2017, 09:23 PM
#914
Tech Adept
I built my kit per the stock instructions for asphalt. I used the stock shock oils ( 450cst) and 3000 rear diff oil. The only changes were to run the diffs in the up position and I changed the springs. I used SMJ 2.5-2.8 progressive springs up front and Xray 2.6 rear springs. I borrowed these from a fellow racer and it made a huge difference. The stock springs were not as consistent at the Tamiya USA track. I did have alot of time between heats, so I checked the rear diff fluid. It was clear but very empty. There was no real leakage, so I refilled it to the line and re-installed everything. That was a big deal as the diff now worked when it had fluid in it.
The only other tip came from my friend. I did the caster wrong. I did not realize that the picture in the manual is reversed so I had the caster flipped and the car was soo hard to drive, too responsive and the back end was loose. When i corrected it, it was much easier to drive. After that is when I checked the rear diff and it was low.
The only other tip came from my friend. I did the caster wrong. I did not realize that the picture in the manual is reversed so I had the caster flipped and the car was soo hard to drive, too responsive and the back end was loose. When i corrected it, it was much easier to drive. After that is when I checked the rear diff and it was low.
Thks
Dixon
09-27-2017, 09:44 PM
#915
in the instructions, one picture shows the upper arm facing front and the next picture with the clips shows the arm facing rear. I used the set screw to determine this. The set screw should face the rear. I put 1.5mm of shims in the rear of the upper a arms. I originally had 1.5mm spacing at the front and it had way too much steering.