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Old 03-13-2018, 09:34 AM   -   Wikipost
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Mugen MTC1 Wiki:

MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site.

Correction for the manual




The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined.

64p = 127 to 164 total teeth


48p = 95 to 120 total teeth


People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear:

1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.

2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw

3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit.
Make the same with the second free Thread.


4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder.
Now you see two marks absolutely central.


5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places

6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.


Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern

1. Axon
2. Panaracer


Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws):

When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic.

Hara's Setup


Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup

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Old 09-20-2017, 11:25 AM
  #841  
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Based on the information I created a color coded gear chart.
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Old 09-20-2017, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MGU View Post
Based on the information I created a color coded gear chart.
Any particular reason it's a 1.7. Opposed to most touring cars being a 1.9.

Almost ordered one last night. Have to keep reminding myself most likely won't race again till May after this Saturday.
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Old 09-20-2017, 01:47 PM
  #843  
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Steel Spool Outrive for $19.99 a a set.

Alloy Chassis is now listed on the parts list. $84.99 USD.

Fan Mount is now listed on the parts list. $19.99 USD.

Just waiting for stock.
so is everyone gonna go with the steel spool outdrives or the aluminum A2231 ALUM SPOOL OUTDRIVE (2pcs): MTC1 - Mugen Seiki Racing ?
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Old 09-20-2017, 02:42 PM
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I'd like to use the aluminum outdrives but it depends on how durable the blades are. I think the steel outdrives will limit front traction just slightly due to the friction under load. Awesomatix took this issue very seriously:
Red RC ? RC Car News Awesomatix
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Old 09-20-2017, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
so is everyone gonna go with the steel spool outdrives or the aluminum A2231 ALUM SPOOL OUTDRIVE (2pcs): MTC1 - Mugen Seiki Racing ?
I'd rather run aluminum and pin protectors myself. Thanks for catching that.
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Old 09-20-2017, 04:56 PM
  #846  
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
I'd like to use the aluminum outdrives but it depends on how durable the blades are. I think the steel outdrives will limit front traction just slightly due to the friction under load. Awesomatix took this issue very seriously:
Red RC ? RC Car News Awesomatix
How serious do you guys think is the friction under load between the pin and outdrive? Awesomatix DID take it pretty seriously. And the ball bearings might be able to minimize wear on the outdrives as well.
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Old 09-20-2017, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
How serious do you guys think is the friction under load between the pin and outdrive? Awesomatix DID take it pretty seriously. And the ball bearings might be able to minimize wear on the outdrives as well.
The bearings are a good idea to reduce wear, but I don't see the universal joint helping much. The angle of articulation isn't high enough to warrant it, and if it was, it would be required in the rear too. That part only works on the front.
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Old 09-20-2017, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
How serious do you guys think is the friction under load between the pin and outdrive? Awesomatix DID take it pretty seriously. And the ball bearings might be able to minimize wear on the outdrives as well.
My bet is it won't matter much but it's just a piece of mind for some and another opportunity for companies to make money off of us. It probably makes negligible difference in run time between steel+pin vs alloy+blade.

Ball bearings will reduce friction, but requires more maintenance, meaning you need to replace the bearings more often. Those tiny bearings won't be cheap either.
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Old 09-20-2017, 05:22 PM
  #849  
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Driveshaft plunge is affected under suspension compression during braking and cornering. Friction and binding stiffens the suspension in an inconsistent way. It's a bad thing. And the amount of plunge can be very small but still produce a lot of resistance to movement.
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Old 09-20-2017, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly View Post
Any particular reason it's a 1.7. Opposed to most touring cars being a 1.9.

Almost ordered one last night. Have to keep reminding myself most likely won't race again till May after this Saturday.
This chart is specifically for the MTC1 and it has an internal ratio of 1.7.
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Old 09-20-2017, 05:25 PM
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It gets really bad when steel outdrives get notched... driveshaft won't plunge easily under load.
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Old 09-20-2017, 05:32 PM
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Funny... If we tried to use the same design on full scale race cars they would be a disastrous.
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Old 09-20-2017, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
This chart is specifically for the MTC1 and it has an internal ratio of 1.7.
Right. My question should have been why would Mugen go with 1.7 for internal gearing? Is there an advantage to it. 1.9 seens to be more common.
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Old 09-20-2017, 05:34 PM
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And I didn't mean to take shot at disaster with that remark... errrr forums.
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Old 09-20-2017, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
And I didn't mean to take shot at disaster with that remark... errrr forums.
No worries, I don't see any foul play.

Realistically, our suspension moves a few mm. Real cars have more suspension travel and are under a much higher load, almost always have double ended universal joints and are spline driven.

They also aren't serviced every few runs and car parts and labor aren't cheap.

Gotta draw the line somewhere between the difference it makes and the cost of producing it.
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