Like Tree758Likes

Mugen MTC1

    Hide Wikipost
Old 03-13-2018, 09:34 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Mugen MTC1
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: liljohn1064
Mugen MTC1 Wiki:

MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site.

Correction for the manual




The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined.

64p = 127 to 164 total teeth


48p = 95 to 120 total teeth


People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear:

1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.

2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw

3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit.
Make the same with the second free Thread.


4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder.
Now you see two marks absolutely central.


5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places

6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.


Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern

1. Axon
2. Panaracer


Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws):

When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic.

Hara's Setup


Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup

Print Wikipost

Old 09-05-2017, 08:44 PM
  #556  
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,965
Default

Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
How do you know it is superb when you didn't even break the bags?
He's talking about the bagging.
snuvet75 and gigaplex like this.
niznai is offline  
Old 09-05-2017, 08:55 PM
  #557  
Dan
Tech Champion
iTrader: (66)
 
Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,448
Trader Rating: 66 (100%+)
Default

How does quality compare to X-ray for those who have owned a T4 before?
Dan is offline  
Old 09-05-2017, 10:37 PM
  #558  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,530
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Does that shop have a website?
They dont, but have a fb page. https://www.facebook.com/rctecracing/

Im not sure if they will do overseas business tho...

Originally Posted by redbones View Post
You are lucky your LHS actually carries relevant stuff than stocking the shelf with all RTR stuff like the ones here. I would so get this car if it wasn't for... on-road racing is dead here, no one cares, corrupt officials that misuses land, etc, etc Just gonna sit here and drool over the build pics...
I was quite lucky actually. I asked them to order one for me on Monday. He called the distributor right after I msged him and just so happened theres 1 left so he was able to get one for me on the same day. They are selling like hotcakes. Shops cant keep them on the shelf. I heard one guy bought 7 and was still asking around other shops for more because there wasnt enough to go around his friends....crazy
disaster999 is offline  
Old 09-05-2017, 10:47 PM
  #559  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,530
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Heres my build process and first impressions of the build and the car.

First the famous metal diff housing. This was made from a REALLY high quality metal. the fit and finish was super nice as well




The gears fits perfectly inside this alignment finger thing, The orings forms a perfect seal, cant see this diff leak anytime soon



The marking on the case lets you know exactly what oil you are using. even have a spot for you to write your own if your using anything higher than 12k


The front diff went together just fine. Kind of disappointing to see the drive cup is made from plastic. Just begging you guys to buy optional parts later on


On to the chassis. The machining is SUPER smooth on it. No sharp edges everywhere. You can barely see the tool path on the motor cutouts and its smooth
lbckevin likes this.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 09-05-2017, 10:53 PM
  #560  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,530
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

The bulk heads and motor mounts, and anything that mounts to the chassis comes with location pins for exact fit


Drive drain installed. Everything is went pretty smoothly. There is a roller guild bearing right under the center pulley which I guess keeps the belts from rubbing against each other, Was a bit tricky mounting the pulley and the belts. Also, was disappointed to find it doesnt include a spur gear.



Arms went in smoothly. No reaming needed. I made a mistake here, I mounted the rears to the front and front to the rear


Steering have multiple options for different ackerman angles and widths
lbckevin and DavidNERODease like this.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 09-05-2017, 11:00 PM
  #561  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,530
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Moving on, the most unique feature on the car, the pivoting caster. Front knuckle assembly went together pretty smoothly. The knuckle pivots on 2 bearings for ultra smooth steering.


This setscrew was kind of hard to access tho, you pretty much have to pry that plastic piece away to get a 1.5mm wrench in


Upper arm installed. Like other have said, those clips bind the upper arm a little and Im afraid of losing those clips so washers will be used instead.



Chassis is almost complete


Another interesting feature, the split top deck with pivoting front section for flex


Almost there...
lbckevin and DavidNERODease like this.

Last edited by disaster999; 09-05-2017 at 11:18 PM.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 09-05-2017, 11:08 PM
  #562  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,530
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Next comes the servo. When reading the manual before, you need to cut part of the servo ear off to clear the belt. I made a mental note to get a plastic cased servo so I can trim half the ear off for the belt, but when I went to buy the car at my LHS, I was overwhelmed with excitement and bought a full metal case servo instead. Kicking myself at that moment, thinking I either have to return the servo for a plastic one, or just man up and just take a dremel and have at it.

Turns out they accounted for it (I think) and included 2 mounting options for the servo. One closer to the center line of the chassis or shift the servo 5mm over to clear the belts. Im not sure how that would affect handling, I might eventually just cut it off and test both position and see which one handles better



Now for the electronics, they included this box for you to neatly hide your wires and mount your receiver and transponder too, but its way too wide for what it is and takes up too much room on the chassis to mount the ESC and still have enough room to fit a fan between the ESC and motor.


Here it is completed minus the shocks. It was getting late and needed sleep. Ill update again tonight with more pics. All in all Im pretty happy with the kit. Fit and finish was superb and there wasnt any major issues while putting the kit together. As mentioned before, I wish they included a spur gear and used metal parts instead of plastic for the front spool, but Im happy with it overall. Gonna sort out the electronics as well and do some testing this weekend




The diff is so sexy

Last edited by disaster999; 09-05-2017 at 11:59 PM.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 09-06-2017, 02:10 AM
  #563  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 29
Default

One remark regarding the upper links:

The German manual recommends to replace one thin plastic shim with 2x 0.2mm shims. By doing so the upper links work freely.

Additionally I recommend to ream your plastic inserts.

For me the slop with 2x0.2mm shim was a liiiittle bit too much. Therefore I decided to grind the upper link by 0.05mm and add an additional 0.1mm spacer on this side. (between plastic insert and plastic shim). Now the play is reduced and the links move 100% free.

Built is almost finished.
- Compared to Xray I think the ball cups have a little bit more slop. But they are moving veeeeeeery smooth.
- Steering is the smoothest I have ever seen so far. But not sure about the slop inside the "fake" C-Hub
- To be on the save side I reamed all suspension parts with Hudy reamer as some were a little bit sticky
- I grinded the rear uprights a little bit, because the fit in the arm was a little bit binding
- Shock building was flawless, no problems here
- I recommend to use loctite for the long scrub screws

cheers,
Felix
Benn0 is offline  
Old 09-06-2017, 03:06 AM
  #564  
Tech Champion
 
Roelof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 9,105
Default

On the MugenSeiki FB page a tip was published to grind something off from the hinge pin inserts.

Do not be afraid to loose those caster clips, they will stay put. but it can be advisable to get a spare set, you can loose them when disassembling the car
Roelof is online now  
Old 09-06-2017, 04:30 AM
  #565  
Bar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: UK
Posts: 579
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
On the MugenSeiki FB page a tip was published to grind something off from the hinge pin inserts.

Do not be afraid to loose those caster clips, they will stay put. but it can be advisable to get a spare set, you can loose them when disassembling the car
Where is this Mugen have quite a few Facebook pages, have you got a link?
Bar is offline  
Old 09-06-2017, 06:51 AM
  #566  
Tech Champion
 
Roelof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 9,105
Default

I did see it somewhere on my frontpage but cannot find it now.

Some tips I did see here with one pic about the hinge pins:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/295894917542384/
Bar likes this.
Roelof is online now  
Old 09-06-2017, 10:21 AM
  #567  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,893
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Not sure when Tower will receive their stock, but I have one pre-ordered. This should be perfect for Sedan at the club.
liljohn1064 is offline  
Old 09-06-2017, 10:46 AM
  #568  
Bar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: UK
Posts: 579
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the awesome photos and build Disaster999, definitely don't see this enough
Bar is offline  
Old 09-06-2017, 11:00 AM
  #569  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
tbrymer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,432
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Not sure when Tower will receive their stock, but I have one pre-ordered. This should be perfect for Sedan at the club.
Tower has their stock, I'm guessing they will ship soon if they haven't already.
liljohn1064 likes this.
tbrymer is offline  
Old 09-06-2017, 11:59 AM
  #570  
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,965
Default

Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post

[...]

As mentioned before, I wish they included a spur gear and used metal parts instead of plastic for the front spool, but Im happy with it overall.

[...]
Plastic is more durable there than metal (unless you use some exotic alloys or metals, which gets expensive really quickly and then you kill the belt).

Their choice of plastic is not the best in my opinion (looks like Kevlar from the pictures) but still better than alloy (even 7075 does not last long against the rubbing of the belt).

Delrin H is much better (probably the best choice of material) but it can not be injected, it has to be machined, and again that gets a bit more expensive. Some companies have option parts in Delrin H (avoid copolymer) and they are a bit exxy, but worth every penny in my opinion.

I have bought some Delrin H and machined my own parts, but it is a pain in the dorongo and I avoid it (until I see the prices for off the shelf parts).

Last edited by niznai; 09-06-2017 at 12:39 PM.
niznai is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.