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Mugen MTC1 Wiki:

MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site.

Correction for the manual




The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined.

64p = 127 to 164 total teeth


48p = 95 to 120 total teeth


People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear:

1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.

2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw

3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit.
Make the same with the second free Thread.


4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder.
Now you see two marks absolutely central.


5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places

6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.


Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern

1. Axon
2. Panaracer


Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws):

When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic.

Hara's Setup


Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup

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Old 08-03-2017, 08:19 AM
  #421  
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
I can't think of even one race track where every second doesn't matter.
Watch the mod finals of the last ETS round.
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Old 08-03-2017, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Watch the mod finals of the last ETS round.
Got a link?

EDIT: I found a YouTube video, the European tracks are huge!! But guess what, every second still matters.
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Old 08-03-2017, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Gero View Post
A few things in my mind since reading the Manual and part list.
Is it possible to run the steering servo a little bit more outside (extra holes in chassis?)? If yes, a longer turnbuckle is necessary?
without "trimming" the servo case?
Is it possible to use blades with the optional steel spool outdrives or just
with the optional auliminium spool outdrives?

Regards, Gero
Blades go with the aluminum out drives and steel ones won't use them
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Old 08-03-2017, 08:48 AM
  #424  
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[QUOTE=30Tooth;14992435]Interested in your numbers and how you calculated them. I did calculate my car's CG and to have a 4.13mm lower CG I would have to make very big changes.

The numbers I've shown were for a World GT pan car where the body weight made up a much higher percentage of the total... obviously the lighter the car the easier it is alter the CG. I started with this Technical Articles to find the true CG of the car fully ready to race - includes everything such as heavy wires, paint, stickers, wing etc.
Then you figure out the CG of the desired individual component and how much it contributes to the location of the overall CG. Do a bunch of math to find the effect of changes or just remeasure and get the new overall CG. You could use CAD of course but it's a lot of work to get EVERYTHING in the model - such as wires which can't be ignored.
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
I can't think of even one race track where every second doesn't matter.
You got me. Should've said every tenth

Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
The numbers I've shown were for a World GT pan car where the body weight made up a much higher percentage of the total... obviously the lighter the car the easier it is alter the CG. I started with this Technical Articles to find the true CG of the car fully ready to race - includes everything such as heavy wires, paint, stickers, wing etc.
Then you figure out the CG of the desired individual component and how much it contributes to the location of the overall CG. Do a bunch of math to find the effect of changes or just remeasure and get the new overall CG. You could use CAD of course but it's a lot of work to get EVERYTHING in the model - such as wires which can't be ignored.
You got me worried, that's my method too but I haven't measured a small pan car ever (I do have a RC10L2) so those numbers were really out of the norm to me.

In this regard the servo can be mounted 5mm outwards to balance a heavy pack if there is a need so another plus to this car. Prices on the mugen site are in line with normal Xray parts, wishful thinking the street prices will be a tad lower.
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Old 08-03-2017, 11:06 AM
  #426  
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You can get a real good look at the parts... OMG that aluminum chassis means business!
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Old 08-03-2017, 12:09 PM
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It looks like considerable design effort went into getting the servo as close to the belt as possible - it's so close you have to trim off the lower mounting ear but I'm still confused by those extra mounting holes in the chassis - they don't have the associated locating "pin" holes?
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Old 08-03-2017, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
You got me worried, that's my method too but I haven't measured a small pan car ever (I do have a RC10L2) so those numbers were really out of the norm to me.
Probably because at the time the local track rules for the class I was running required us to use HPI bodies - what would be classified as USGT bodies today but on a pan car. Not the sleek Protoform bodies designed for foam WGT. They were so tall and heavy that if you didn't trim like 2cm above the cut line you traction rolled or the car handled really really bad. It was a wonderful learning experience
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Old 08-03-2017, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
It looks like considerable design effort went into getting the servo as close to the belt as possible - it's so close you have to trim off the lower mounting ear but I'm still confused by those extra mounting holes in the chassis - they don't have the associated locating "pin" holes?
You saw that too?

Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
Probably because at the time the local track rules for the class I was running required us to use HPI bodies - what would be classified as USGT bodies today but on a pan car. Not the sleek Protoform bodies designed for foam WGT. They were so tall and heavy that if you didn't trim like 2cm above the cut line you traction rolled or the car handled really really bad. It was a wonderful learning experience
Thanks, I have the full picture now. Couldn't see how you could lower the CG 4mm on a WGT car where everything is so low
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Old 08-03-2017, 12:56 PM
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If you stock racers are worried about balance between battery weight and power, just get a thunder power lipo. Starts with more power and ends with more power regardless of mah. Highest quality lipos, but you are paying for it.

@marcus j btw I have no complaints about being suspended, but you don't have to declare it to everyone. Thanks to you disgusting others with your behavior, this thread was dead for some time. You could learn something from wildthing, another moderator, who gives warnings first before suspending and more importantly does so through pm. Not waving his control for others to see.
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by latentspeed View Post
If you stock racers are worried about balance between battery weight and power, just get a thunder power lipo. Starts with more power and ends with more power regardless of mah. Highest quality lipos, but you are paying for it.

@marcus j btw I have no complaints about being suspended, but you don't have to declare it to everyone. Thanks to you disgusting others with your behavior, this thread was dead for some time. You could learn something from wildthing, another moderator, who gives warnings first before suspending and more importantly does so through pm. Not waving his control for others to see.
i dont give warnings, if i suspended you for less than 1 year that's your warning, and you made a second account while suspended

now lets enjoy the thread
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:22 PM
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Regarding servo mounting - well the extra locating pin holes are there but not in line with other screw holes. Must be an optional part?
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:24 PM
  #433  
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Maxamps are the best.








*grabs popcorn*
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by latentspeed View Post
If you stock racers are worried about balance between battery weight and power, just get a thunder power lipo. Starts with more power and ends with more power regardless of mah. Highest quality lipos, but you are paying for it.

@marcus j btw I have no complaints about being suspended, but you don't have to declare it to everyone. Thanks to you disgusting others with your behavior, this thread was dead for some time. You could learn something from wildthing, another moderator, who gives warnings first before suspending and more importantly does so through pm. Not waving his control for others to see.
2005 called, they want their lipos back... Thunder power has not been relevant in about 3 years on the surface side. At one point they did have the highest quality stuff, but that was a while back, especially with the graphene stuff. You can get really good stuff just about anywhere today.
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
Maxamps are the best.








*grabs popcorn*
Man, Maxamps is proud of their stuff, huh?
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