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Mugen MTC1

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Mugen MTC1 Wiki:

MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site.

Correction for the manual




The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined.

64p = 127 to 164 total teeth


48p = 95 to 120 total teeth


People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear:

1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.

2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw

3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit.
Make the same with the second free Thread.


4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder.
Now you see two marks absolutely central.


5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places

6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.


Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern

1. Axon
2. Panaracer


Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws):

When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic.

Hara's Setup


Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup

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Old 02-22-2019, 07:44 AM
  #1486  
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
how do we know we're buying the new hubs cuz if i'm not mistaken they have the same part # (online orders so we cant measure them)
I agree - no way of knowing what you are getting via any online purchase and if ordered from your LHS - how do they know if it's old stock? And I'm sure the new hubs are stronger but they still look a little bendy to me - I'm not gonna be the crash test dummy for these V2 hubs.
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Old 02-22-2019, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
I agree - no way of knowing what you are getting via any online purchase and if ordered from your LHS - how do they know if it's old stock? And I'm sure the new hubs are stronger but they still look a little bendy to me - I'm not gonna be the crash test dummy for these V2 hubs.
Tim at Nitrohouse has been able to answer every question I've thrown at him regarding MTC 1 and it's hop ups availability. Might check with him for what ever questions you have. Totally agree about the fragile looking "new" plastic ones.
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Old 03-26-2019, 09:03 AM
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I ran my MTC1 (still box stock) in VTA trim again at the 2019 Canadian Nats. Last year I missed the show by one position and so this year my main goal was to not have that happen again. After day one I was 7th and very happy. Day 2 I had trouble with the increased grip levels (tire prep) and dropped to 9th instead of moving up. I was pretty bummed to again squander my cars performance but making the show at this huge race feels pretty good. In the main I had the performance for a podium finish but starting 9th required more skill than I possess. Nobody could touch Wayne Gerber's Awesoshaftix (LOL please lose the fug'n wheel dots) but otherwise my wet noodle chassis MTC1 sure makes a great VTA car even on CRC black at a national event.
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Old 04-07-2019, 10:38 AM
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Hey Guys, I'm considering the MTC1 but I'm having 2nd thoughts after reading through the comments. If you knew then what you know now, would you still buy it?
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Old 04-07-2019, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Reese Bobby View Post
Hey Guys, I'm considering the MTC1 but I'm having 2nd thoughts after reading through the comments. If you knew then what you know now, would you still buy it?
Honestly, IMHO, there's nothing wrong with the car. Its a good performer and handles pretty well with just a top deck swap depending on the surface and traction.

Build quality is really nice. Love the shocks, the diff is a piece of art, as long as you have enough oil in it, unique front upper arm suspension. The drive train is ultra smooth out of the box etc etc. And being the first electric touring car I thought Mugen with their experience nitro cars would be capable of making a just as good tourer and would be a good collectors car.

Being their first car doesn't come without its problems. The car comes with plastic spool cups despite the fact the front spool shaft is full metal. If they are going to skimp out on quality, why on plastic cups but leaving the shaft metal? Plastic cups should NEVER be standard on any competition level kit esp with the price we pay, they will get chewed up instantly with any boost and timing thrown at it but a plastic shaft isnt a huge deal. Xrays and Yokomo does this. Second their gears in the diff are known to be soft and without proper maintenance and or oil level, the gears tend to chew itself over time. The o-rings in the diff were too tight as well gripping the shaft on the drive cups making it seem like it had heavier diff oil inside. Not an overly huge issue as I could just use some lower weight oil to compensate and keep In mind to rebuild the diff more frequently. Not ideal but thats what tuning is about.

What threw me over the edge with Mugen is when they released a "Performance Edition" where 3 of the 5 "upgrades" arent even upgrades, but fixes to their original problems. The only that is an upgrade is changing the front suspension to a conventional C hub setup and a new upper deck. Then a few months later after announcing the performance edition, they have the gall to come to say, "Oops, our bad, our first design of the C hub is too weak and will bend in a crash, so here's a beefed up version for you to buy." They didnt even offer a replacement program for people who bought their crap already.

Im kind of on the fence right now of either selling...or keeping the car. There arent a lot of people locally playing with this car anymore, most of them have sold theirs. A local driver placed second in one round of the One Ten series which he had a pretty close fight with Jan Ratheisky. You dont see this car in any major touring series, finishing top 10 (could argue that most of the team driver driving this car is more of an Nitro guy).

If your still thinking about this car, go for it. Im sure you can find some pretty good second hand deals in the market place right now.
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Old 04-08-2019, 11:27 AM
  #1491  
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
Honestly, IMHO, there's nothing wrong with the car. Its a good performer and handles pretty well with just a top deck swap depending on the surface and traction.

Build quality is really nice. Love the shocks, the diff is a piece of art, as long as you have enough oil in it, unique front upper arm suspension. The drive train is ultra smooth out of the box etc etc. And being the first electric touring car I thought Mugen with their experience nitro cars would be capable of making a just as good tourer and would be a good collectors car.

Being their first car doesn't come without its problems. The car comes with plastic spool cups despite the fact the front spool shaft is full metal. If they are going to skimp out on quality, why on plastic cups but leaving the shaft metal? Plastic cups should NEVER be standard on any competition level kit esp with the price we pay, they will get chewed up instantly with any boost and timing thrown at it but a plastic shaft isnt a huge deal. Xrays and Yokomo does this. Second their gears in the diff are known to be soft and without proper maintenance and or oil level, the gears tend to chew itself over time. The o-rings in the diff were too tight as well gripping the shaft on the drive cups making it seem like it had heavier diff oil inside. Not an overly huge issue as I could just use some lower weight oil to compensate and keep In mind to rebuild the diff more frequently. Not ideal but thats what tuning is about.

What threw me over the edge with Mugen is when they released a "Performance Edition" where 3 of the 5 "upgrades" arent even upgrades, but fixes to their original problems. The only that is an upgrade is changing the front suspension to a conventional C hub setup and a new upper deck. Then a few months later after announcing the performance edition, they have the gall to come to say, "Oops, our bad, our first design of the C hub is too weak and will bend in a crash, so here's a beefed up version for you to buy." They didnt even offer a replacement program for people who bought their crap already.

Im kind of on the fence right now of either selling...or keeping the car. There arent a lot of people locally playing with this car anymore, most of them have sold theirs. A local driver placed second in one round of the One Ten series which he had a pretty close fight with Jan Ratheisky. You dont see this car in any major touring series, finishing top 10 (could argue that most of the team driver driving this car is more of an Nitro guy).

If your still thinking about this car, go for it. Im sure you can find some pretty good second hand deals in the market place right now.
Thanks for your comprehensive feedback. I will be joining the MTC1 club later this week and look forward to getting what I can out of the kit.
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Old 04-10-2019, 08:38 PM
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.

Last edited by nexxus; 04-10-2019 at 08:41 PM. Reason: Posting a for sale item in the general forum.
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Old 04-25-2019, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
In combination with the steering stop, this should be a lot tougher.
Mugen MTC-1 reinforced C-hubs - Red RC - RC Car News

i just got in a couple A2002 performance kits in, as they'd been backordered at Mugen USA for a bit and both my kits did come with the updated blocks. So if ordered from there, I think it's safe to say at least the kits they have in stock, are updated. As for just getting the individual blocks themselves, I'm not sure if the stock has been fully updated for those, I suspect they all will be the new updated ones at some point.
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Old 04-27-2019, 01:21 AM
  #1494  
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Months ago when I ordered the C blocks from RMV deutschland I got the new updated blocks.
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Old 04-27-2019, 09:35 AM
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I almost ordered the upgrade kit last night - still on the fence however.
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
I almost ordered the upgrade kit last night - still on the fence however.
pull the trigger..the performance and consistency you'll get out of the car are much better than the stock setup. There are a few of us running it locally and myself and the others are consistently at or near the top of our classes when our skills are able to match the cars capabilities..lol. btw I'm still running the first set of aluminum hubs that I got in December with no bending issues.
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:07 PM
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i found a very good offer of the old version, what parts are must to buy? please kindly advise!
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Old 05-15-2019, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by choisan View Post
i found a very good offer of the old version, what parts are must to buy? please kindly advise!

the one one piece top deck is almost a must,
if you want the newer top deck with the pitch rod setup on it you can go that route for sure and can use it with the old front end with a slight mod to it.

the performance kit, if you want the most current form of the car and utilize the new setup sheets,
if not the new red seals are good to have in the diff and shocks

alum chassis if running on carpet that's high grip

maybe one rate stiffer sway bars front and rear if you want, and of course the usual extra arms front and rear and knuckles just in case you brake one or two


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Old 05-15-2019, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by choisan View Post
i found a very good offer of the old version, what parts are must to buy? please kindly advise!
just get the 2019 performance kit..it'll have everything you need. then get the smj stealth line springs or xray springs and you'll be set
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