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Old 01-18-2006, 05:40 AM   #31
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I think the real thing to look at here is that the TD is not a proper motor bench. From what I know, only Robitronic do one, and it costs way too much to be a good investment unless you're a real motor guru like EddieO.
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Old 01-18-2006, 07:37 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO
Softer Spring will produce more torque

Stiffer Spring will produce more RPM.....

Using a stiffer spring on the positive is just a fine tuning option to achieve optimal power, while controlling brush bounce....

You should never use a stiffer negative spring than the positive on anything other than an oval motor......the oval guys get it to work, but in touring, offroad, etc.....doesn't work very well....


Later EddieO
What is the effect of having stiffer springs on the negative? Why do oval guys do it?
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Old 01-18-2006, 10:30 AM   #33
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TR415boy, the TD is the best dyno out there.....the Robi is good, probably the second best unit....

Killwency, I dunno.....I don't do it, but I know lots of oval guys that do.....they swear by it......from what I learned over the years, oval guys are a weird creative and imaginitive breed of racers....I would rarely copy what they do....

Later EddieO
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Old 01-18-2006, 10:33 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO
TR415boy, the TD is the best dyno out there.....the Robi is good, probably the second best unit....

Killwency, I dunno.....I don't do it, but I know lots of oval guys that do.....they swear by it......from what I learned over the years, oval guys are a weird creative and imaginitive breed of racers....I would rarely copy what they do....

Later EddieO

O sure....


I'm weird

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Old 01-18-2006, 10:37 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyson
guys, look at Eddies track results..
2005 Snowbirds Champions
2005 ROAR Carpet Modified National Champions
2005 ROAR Carpet Modified Nationals TQ
2005 ROAR Carpet Stock National Champions
2005 Reedy Race Champions
2005 Reedy Race TQ
2005 International Champs Stock Rubber Champions
2005 International Champs TQ (3 classes!)
2005 ROAR Paved Stock Nationals TQ
2005 Cleveland TQ
2005 Cleveland Champions

I think i will trust him before most people. THe Track results obviously prove that he knows what he is doing dont you think?
very true i tune my motors somewhat like eddy and they rip
on the track,they look rubish on the dyno.but the thing you need to know
is not what brushes you use or springs you use , it all in what track you are funning and how you gear . eveyone asked the fast guys, what is the rollout and they say 27 RO ok well ill gear that way too. but your not fast try a base trinity motor pro verson give to eddys
top driver and watch him go, work on set ups make the car fast eddys motors are already fast , and i am new in motor sales but not new in tunning and ill be there soon

Last edited by motorhead; 01-18-2006 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 01-18-2006, 10:58 AM   #36
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ok my way monstor stock red and red spring 4499 brushes

tight track gear down 1 to 2 teeth and large tracks red on - and green
on + side gear up 2 teeth you will get better rpms and the motor will
stay cooler try it you will like it

note as you cut the arm it get smaller right . well use stiffer springs
you will have more rpms also do nut cut arm less then 02.50 mm
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:00 AM   #37
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So for someone that only has a motor checker what should I look for

My basic steps for setting up a stock motor are:

1)buy a motor with a balanced arm
2)pull the bushings and polish to a mirror finish w metal polish
3)polish the armature with 2000 grit paper and metal polish where it rides on the bushings
4)align the brush heads
5)cut the comm - (Trinity lathe)
6)seat bearings and lubricate with Tribo
7)shim arm
8)install 767 or 4499 brushes w/red springs or red/green springs - check spring tention with a sonic fiddlestick and adjust
9)break in at 2 volts for 20 minutes w/o fan attached

I then get readings on my(Trinity) motor checker 2volt/w a break-in fan attached somewhere around a 8.5 to 9 amp draw

Then I put the little magnetic doodad on the motor to check RPM and usually get around 27000 w/ a balanced arm and 240000 if I have an unbalanced arm

any suggestions for improvement to this - I am running alot of 12th scale this winter so I also question my spring and brush choice

also should I start triming the brush edges for less amp draw?
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:20 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLM2005
So for someone that only has a motor checker what should I look for

My basic steps for setting up a stock motor are:

1)buy a motor with a balanced arm
2)pull the bushings and polish to a mirror finish w metal polish
3)polish the armature with 2000 grit paper and metal polish where it rides on the bushings
4)align the brush heads
5)cut the comm - (Trinity lathe)
6)seat bearings and lubricate with Tribo
7)shim arm
8)install 767 or 4499 brushes w/red springs or red/green springs - check spring tention with a sonic fiddlestick and adjust
9)break in at 2 volts for 20 minutes w/o fan attached

I then get readings on my(Trinity) motor checker 2volt/w a break-in fan attached somewhere around a 8.5 to 9 amp draw

Then I put the little magnetic doodad on the motor to check RPM and usually get around 27000 w/ a balanced arm and 240000 if I have an unbalanced arm

any suggestions for improvement to this - I am running alot of 12th scale this winter so I also question my spring and brush choice

also should I start triming the brush edges for less amp draw?
try using xxx brush or a f-brush with red springs brake them in for
6 min . i like the xxx brush little better becuse they dont rip up the arm
as the f-brush would ,
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Old 01-19-2006, 09:00 PM   #39
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sounds like a good step by step for tuning stock motors. just wondering what kind of numbers at 5.0Volts does your monster put out???

Mine is 24500rpm and 100.3 Torque.
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Old 01-19-2006, 10:46 PM   #40
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You should not remove the bushings if yer gonna polish them.....they will never seat the same....

Later EddieO
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Old 01-20-2006, 08:27 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLM2005
also should I start triming the brush edges for less amp draw?
I run 1/12th scale, what does trimming the brushes do?

Should you trim the leading, trailing or both edges?

And how much do you trim?
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Old 01-20-2006, 08:35 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO
You should not remove the bushings if yer gonna polish them.....they will never seat the same....

Later EddieO
Well, What do I do with the bushing removal tool that I got from the Team brOOd website???????????????
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Old 01-20-2006, 08:39 AM   #43
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Bushing removal tool? that's for replaces ball bearing in mod motors.
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Old 01-20-2006, 09:18 AM   #44
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Then why is it called a BMS bearing/bushing installer/remover??
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Old 01-20-2006, 09:20 AM   #45
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Remove bushings.....for replacement with a new bushing or bearing....

I just would polish them IN motor....works better and keeps the same angle of seat.....

Later EddieO
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