Fenix gear diff issues
 

I thought I would see if any one else has had issues with these diffs?

I bought one for my 17 x1 and upon the first trial of the car holding it in the air mind you I pulled the throttle only to discover a horrible wobble from the right tire. Upon inspection I discovered that the axle shaft was machined out of round where it steps down to accept the right hub, this also makes the hub hard to push into the diff side cover and even though it has never touched carpet it caused a thin line to be dug into the spur at the edge of the outer side to f the pinion. Frustrating for $100 dollars.

I emailed them so I will see what they do.

AlBundy

Mail received and replied.
Sorry for the issue you've had.

LMK if you get my mail, don't forget that we've 6 hours delta time.

Has anyone tried one of these in stock 12th scale?

Not sure you can get a big enough pinion on the motor to run stock. I believe the gear diff has 8x teeth.

Fenton and thecaptain

The 1/12 version is on 84/64, and of course all the gear spurs are compatible.

Well I can say that these guys not only have poor QC but seem to not like it when they feel offended. They then threaten to slow the process, and as I have not heard any word back today they will in fact slow down any claim if you point out that as a customer who paid out over $100 bucks you reserve the right to not appreciate having to prove their product is of poor quality.

So in a nutshell I feel the transaction should have gone as simple as them sending out either the parts to make it right, or a whole new unit, along with a return ticket so I can ship the defective unit back. You know, so they can use it to learn from and not repeat.

However I get "send us pictures". I send pictures, only to be told not to send them to their site which specifically has an attachment provision for pictures. I point that out to them and explain what a expletive pain in my expletive it is to send the pics by using a camera, downloading, emailing as compared to snapping a pic on the tablet and using their site to send. They respond with warnings for me not to use expletives as it won't make the resolution any faster. I send them pictures and detailed explanation of the issues.

And you guessed it, hear nothing back. So if you do have a claim with these guys I recommend you suck it up like the sap they think their customers are and kiss up to them, whatever you do don't tell it like it is.

I have had Great customer service from them.

Tom

.

What was wrong with your product?

If you paid with paypal, put in a claim and escalate it. It is hard for them to ignore you then.

Dear Albundy
Sorry for the issue.

Of course, if you get a defective product you've a full right to claim for a solution or a remboursement.

Nevertheless we claim, on our side, the right to choose how to serve a customer, if we're treated in a less than "normal" behaviour.

As I say profanity is not a good lubricant in any discussion as is not going to speed up any given process.

http://i66.tinypic.com/140ls90.jpg

Also menacing to "black mail" as well, is not a good system to improve a relationship

http://i63.tinypic.com/2qsuws2.png

Of course...
Our fault... anyone can spot the problem at first sight from the clear pictures we got...

http://i64.tinypic.com/2up2wsh.jpg
http://i65.tinypic.com/w7btk3.jpg

Regarding your 2 last statement:

"And you guessed it, hear nothing back."

You cannot be more wrong, as we've already contacted the dealer that supply you the parts to solve practically your issue.
All you've to do is contact him.


"So if you do have a claim with these guys I recommend you suck it up like the sap they think their customers are and kiss up to them, whatever you do don't tell it like it is."

Of course and while you're doing so, remember we like a lot better email starting with "Good morning" or "Dear person" and ending with a signature, preferably without "fxxxing axx" in the test.

Nothing more than basics which are teached at the primary school.

Now, again, I'm estremely sorry for the issue you've had, as well extremely happy for the 5 minutes of popularity you've got.

Giorgio

LOL, what a crappy pic.

Must be the new iPhone potatoe.

Customer isn't always right, sometimes things no matter how high quality the product can have something that's not been machined right, I have had shock shafts were the thread wasn't cut right before

so your saying you handled everything but just didn't notify me? Sounds like a stand up thing to do.... leave the customer hanging without notification.

And I don't have to be good with pictures I'm not a photographer , but as you sell machined parts I would recommend you get better a it. And if your just the customer service rep well you need to brush up on that as well.

A little patience and some common sense goes a long way. And you don't have to be a photographer to see that those pictures are useless.

Also how would a picture ever show an out of round shaft in the first place, they were sent more pictures than that but he only chose to use the ones he had me send to his email.
I did indeed send additional video and pictures to the fenix sites email. But he refused to get them sent to over.

Also I posted a very clear video on the fenix face book page, I wish he would have posted that.

I know some of you will hinge over the quality of a picture, I however maintain that better customer service and over all quality are the real issues here.

Also, they just now replied to me on Facebook that the issue is being handled, better late than never.

.....

Hi Fenix guys,

This isn't a quality problem, but just wanting to get advice on maintenance.

The gear diff is working great. I did have to put a spacer between the spring and cap. The hex with the set screw would slide all the way to the end (closest to the upright) and allow the wheel hex adapter about 3mm of play. Did anyone else run into this?

The main question is how to keep the oil from leaking when not racing. Or is it expected to have to fill the diff before every race? If so, how do you ensure the diff gets rebuilt the same every time?

I tried 100K, but most of that flung out of the diff after 3 runs. I moved to 500K and have had awesome performance, but it gets real messy filling, running in, then cleaning up the excess.

I'd appreciate any advice you guys might have.

Boy I could say something but I won't. Fenix I like the diff and have a second one coming.

your not supposed to fill it like a car dif. Just lightly coat the gears. its not a sealed diff. depending on the surface your running on determines the thickness of the lube or grease to use. If your in the US and run on the Black CRC carpet I would recommend to start off with 100K-200k. I'm running a lot heavier than that now but our tracks traction is very high.

Gear diffs that sling silicone everywhere..... that will be easy to get out of carpet.

Yeah, lightly coat the gears. If you have to move up in heavier diff oil, then do so to maintain the previously lighter (but totally filled) diff.

I have been running spray graphite with very good results. Also tried Lucas Oil Red and Tacky which also worked well.

chuck

I'm testing new tires that have a lot of rear traction on carpet, so I've already done everything I can to get the car to rotate. Loading the gear diff with 500K got the back end to slide just the right amount.

I'm either going to half fill the diff with 500K and store the diff upright between races or lightly coat the gears with Gravity 2 Million. Seems ridiculous, but with these tires, it's only .2 slower with a 25.5 than the track hot shot with a 21.5.

Do not half fill the diff. your only supposed to put a light coat on the gears. 2 mil is no problem I've done that this past week. Chucks suggestion of the Red grease should be a great one also.

Just don't not fill with any amount of fluids other than a very light coating on the gears. Its will spin out do to centrifugal force and get all over your car and the track.

This diff is designed for grease, not fluids.

Will do 2 million. Groovy.

Living in Shanghai, there are no car parts stores to pick up the Lucas oil as suggested.