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Old 01-13-2006, 10:05 PM   #1
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Default Should I replaceParts with Aluminum?

I had a RTR Tc4. I bought FT Conversion Kit along with new motor, shocks, and servo, well tonight I was out racing. I broke my Rear swing arm, along with my front caster block (this is the second time having to replace caster block).

I was wondering seeing I have almost everyother nice upgrade on my FT, should I just go all out and replace the CVD's with these Titanium ones my shop has, then Replace the Arms with Aluminum along with new Caster Blocks (Aluminum)? That would cover pretty much all my parts on my TC4 upgraded.

I don't want to go buy plastic and then have it break on me agian...

Should I also buy that battery mount for FT or just keep taping my batterys in?


Thx- Mike
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Old 01-14-2006, 06:46 AM   #2
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I wouldn't simply because something has to give in wrecks. If you make everything stronger then the chassis will break. I'd rather replace $10 arms than $25 arms or $50 chassis. Besides, aluminum is way to heavy. If you think the strap would be easier fot you, than do it. R.W.
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Old 01-14-2006, 06:55 AM   #3
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I would put in aluminum knuckles and leave the arms composite

Last edited by ntro75; 01-14-2006 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 01-14-2006, 07:38 AM   #4
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Also, if you bend aluminium then it will not flex back. So you could have a bent part on your car and you wouldn't even know it. That will cause havoc on the track and you wouldn't even know what is causing it. With carbon composite, it will either give or break. It will not get bent and stay bent.
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Old 01-14-2006, 08:15 AM   #5
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Like above mentioned, ONLY depends on WHERE you want to be alum or Titanium......

Knuckles OR C-hub, pick one, NEVER both, if I have to choose, I will pick knuckles, cause C-hub comes with different degrees, from 0 to 6 degree, in order for you to collect them all in aluminum, it will cost you WAY more then $100 just for alum C-hub...knuckles are always knuckles, only left and right.

The reason you only need to pick one....when in IMPACT, SOMETHING must go...there are NO SUCH THING is bullet proof, not in RC, not in real 1:1 car, simple math and phy. period, something HAS to take the impact and BREAK From wheel, to knuckles, to C-hub, to pins, to arms, to Toe-blocks, to pin again, then to the CARBON FIBER chassis.....if you have to ask me, I will definitely let the ARMS (front or rear) break....that is the cheapest part for the whole suspension structure (yes, C-hub and knuckles are using less material but they are more expensive....). When you ALUMINUM the whole suspension.............everything is as strong is it is....except, the weakest parts might be your $65 carbon fiber chassis.....the last thing you want to replace is your CHASSIS.

The worst thing for you to do is UPGRADE everything to aluminum....yes, they might LOOK strong, but they are NOT as good as you think they are...they won't break, but they will BENT........now, you have a bent arm, bent C-hub and bent steering knuckles (that you might not even know), and they are not BROKEN, but bent, totally OFF from your setting, you will have a hard time to find out why your car drive like Sh_t, but you know for sure they costed you $100+ for them, now what are you going to do...? Throw them away or let it be OFF forever....?

When I was young and knew nothing about RC...I used to be alum this and alum that RC Bling Bling racer....now....I just let it BREAK and replace them with their original parts, but then, I learned a real BULLET PROOF way after 20 years of racing - don't crash and don't touch anyone and any wall.....that is the real BULLET PROOF way (but I am still trying to do that...LOL)
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Old 01-14-2006, 08:53 AM   #6
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Don't crash...even though everyone does it from time to time just be more cautious when your balls to the wall
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Old 01-14-2006, 09:25 AM   #7
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Spend your money on getting driving time...Stick with the graphite parts. Lightest and best performance.
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Old 01-14-2006, 09:27 AM   #8
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Also, if you're breaking the arms, get the standard plastic ones. AE has quite a lot on their website about the composite ones actually being more fragile. The composite parts are brittle whereas plastic has some give in it. Personally I would avoid adding extra weight to the chassis unless it REALLY is a problem. I'm surprised you snapped a CVD. At the end of the day any part will break or bend if you crash hard enough, and as said above adding aluminium would just put the stress somewhere else.
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Old 01-14-2006, 03:19 PM   #9
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Alright, stick with Graphite Arms, and CVDs..

What about Casterblocks though?
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Old 01-14-2006, 05:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Barch
Alright, stick with Graphite Arms, and CVDs..

What about Casterblocks though?
Just the stock material C-hub are OK....
About the CVD...why buy the stock composite one...? You want the blue alum MIP CVD...
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Old 01-14-2006, 05:25 PM   #11
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My shop has Titanum CVD's (I will buy all 4).
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Old 01-14-2006, 07:56 PM   #12
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Let me get this stright...



I can stick to plastic Caster Blocks (C-Hubs?).

Stock CVD's (I did't break any, but I thought while I was out replacing parts I should upgrade, but seems to me your saying the stock composite or graphite whatever are fine?)

The only thing I need to replace is one broken Steering Arm in the rear, so I should just buy another composite one like it came with?

Im also going to be picking up that battery mount kit...

One question though, on my Steering arms, how do I go about getting the pin out of them so I can take the thing off the block or whatever it is connected to...(thing that holds the wheel and cvd)
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Old 01-14-2006, 08:19 PM   #13
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Upgrade your CVD's to either the FT aluminium or the Titanium ones. Keep everything else either plastic or graphite.
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Old 01-14-2006, 08:20 PM   #14
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Ok cool, so just upgrade CVD's to the Titanum.
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Old 01-14-2006, 08:36 PM   #15
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i would

(after i go really good)

up grade alot of the stuff besides some cheap-o 2$ part and have a bunch of those on hand
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