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Old 01-14-2006, 10:13 PM   #16
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composite or FT in the back and stronger ones in the front!!!
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Old 01-14-2006, 10:27 PM   #17
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Well Im not going to replace my CVD's until I break them.

How do I go about getting the Steering Arm off...not off the caster block, but off the other part? Theres a screw, I unscrewed it, theres a pin holding it on...how would I get that pin out?
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:35 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Barch
Well Im not going to replace my CVD's until I break them.

How do I go about getting the Steering Arm off...not off the caster block, but off the other part? Theres a screw, I unscrewed it, theres a pin holding it on...how would I get that pin out?
Look at the assembly manual, and read it right from left (backwards) so that will show you how to disassemble that part.
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Old 01-15-2006, 01:56 PM   #19
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I got it thanks.
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Old 01-15-2006, 06:25 PM   #20
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You're bound to break parts one way or the other. Alumiinum replacement parts cost more, add weight, tend to bend and stay bent. Stick with plastic if you're prone to many crashes, go to carbon when you are good to go. Remember though that even if you have a bad crash sometimes the obvious broken part also hides hidden broken or bent stuff. (i.e. bent hingepins, bent axle stud, tweaked chassis, all sorts of stuff) Always make sure the parts on the car are always good to go. Sometimes folks forget that their parts can fail and lead to a crash. Something to think about. Invest on another second hand car as backup parts so that when you do break something. It won't be an unexpected parts buying frenzy.
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Old 01-15-2006, 06:38 PM   #21
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I didn't read all the other posts but honestly, if you are breaking rear A Arms, you need to slow down and practive driving first before worrying about aluminum. Breaking stuff in the front is common on any car. But breaking the stuff in the rear usually means your rear is swinging around and smacking the wall...this means a lack of control and/or a bad set-up.

Slow down!
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