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Old 02-13-2006, 06:41 AM   #16
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If you leave the batteries in the tray, unattended, will the batteries go down to 0?
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Old 02-13-2006, 07:38 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KENZO
If you leave the batteries in the tray, unattended, will the batteries go down to 0?
In the Tekin one, no.
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Old 02-13-2006, 03:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KENZO
If you leave the batteries in the tray, unattended, will the batteries go down to 0?
Not in the Novak tray either, unless you have it set to do that.

Not sure why everyone is trying so hard to make one of them better than the other.. they both do essentially the same thing, both do it equally well, and either one is adequate for what they do. If you find one on sale, go with that one. If you like the color of one over the color of the other.. buy that one. Flip a coin, play eeny-meeny-miny-mo.. whatever - they're BOTH good products.
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Old 02-13-2006, 04:56 PM   #19
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Seen this thread near the top and wanted to post my findings on how my cells are reacting to the way I have been taking care of them....

The results are good !

RIR= lower
AIR= lower
Runtime= a little lower...( within 20 seconds in one case...a little higher in the other...again within 20 seconds )
Peak voltage= near same
Avg Voltage= Higher nearly 1 / 10th of a volt per cell avg

The packs have nearly 10 runs on them to this point.

Here is how I have been handling them:

Remove from storage and dump to 5.40 @ 30 amps
Place in Novak flatline or tekin battery doc tray till lights are out
( If in the tekin tray I will place in novak until that led is out )
Chg @ 6.5 amps to .3 cutoff
Place in car and run
After run remove from car and place in storage box without discharging .

( I always see guys saying put 450 or 500 mah back in the battery after they discharge it...why not just leave the pack alone till next race day?...it's working for me )


Are you still using the trays??
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Old 02-15-2006, 11:29 PM   #20
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Non-polarized is a biggie and basically doubles the cost plus a little due to complexity. In some of the high end versions it is really difficult to stay within a reasonable price point... We can buy basic trays at dealer costs that are lower than the cost to make a bat doc.... The price we pay to be just a little different and seperates us from the pack.

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Old 02-15-2006, 11:37 PM   #21
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Yeah, my tekin tray is dialed. I've only seen improvment in my batteries. Voltage went up slightly, resistance dropped a bit, and runtime has improved as well. I couldnt ask for more honestly.

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Old 02-16-2006, 09:58 PM   #22
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I'm looking to buy a new tray. The novak smart tray looks good. How about the eagle and the muchmore 0v tray? There's no tekin available here though.
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Old 02-19-2006, 06:53 PM   #23
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Where is Tekin not available? Maybe we can do something about that.

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Old 02-21-2006, 03:03 AM   #24
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Quote:
There's no tekin available here though.
Eh? Xtreme RC Hobbies has 'em.
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Old 02-21-2006, 03:58 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayman
I'm looking to buy a new tray. The novak smart tray looks good. How about the eagle and the muchmore 0v tray? There's no tekin available here though.
Many people would opt for Novak Smart Tray. But there are also other options of getting a cheaper discharger that would perform well too.

I'm using the Muchmore Zero-V discharger/conditioner and I am happy with it. Aside from its very cheap price, it discharges batteries in 30A and conditions new and old batteries to make it perform well. By the way, Muchmore Zero-V is exactly the same as INDI Zero 6S tray which I belive is cheaper.

Muchmore's CTX-D is another great product but not cheap. Price range of this discharger runs from $180-$200. Depends on where you purchase it.

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Old 02-21-2006, 08:46 PM   #26
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We do not believe in dead short or 0volt discharging. These trays are much much more inexpensive to build. We can buy the 0volt trays as a finished products for considerably less than it cost to build a battery doctor. Facts of manufacturing a non-polarized try with coltage cuttoffs and a led that is really per cell.... Every tray I have checked has a tab or 2 that when pulled back and disconected no lights go out.. nothing happens. No gaurentee all cells are connected during balance.... causing issues when charging more than people may realize.

There is simple and low cost and there is simple and smart...

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Old 02-21-2006, 09:52 PM   #27
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Sorry I didn't know it was available at Extreme Rc hobbies.

Nicadrauspro4 - I'm not sure about that mucmore tray. Its 0v and no cut off for .9v. I had a similar product and it ruined my IB. Its ok with GP where you could leave it to 0v but IB are more sensitive to discharging to 0v in my experience. Other people would think different.
That's why I'm looking into a tray with 0v an .9v cut off that's non polarized.
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