Rodarbal

iTrader: (49)

BoneCrusher

iTrader: (2)

Is there a full set of "official" TCS rules online somewhere for this class?

Specifically I would like to know if it's in the TCS rules that are you allowed to CA the sidewalls of the tires to stiffen it up cause no inserts and also CA the edge of the front tires to prevent traction roll. I think we're about to get this class rolling at our club and we trying to sort out the rules so everyone is on the same page.

I get the spirit of the class is box stock but I prefer not to traction roll like crazy and damage a body I spent 3 times longer to prepare than building the chassis which makes no sense at all to me. Anyone have good pics where to add protective foam or whatever to make it stronger on the inside of the body for added durability?

Thanks,

Ivan

GrandeGixxer

iTrader: (21)

Can we please get the name of this thread changed?

c-lyon

iTrader: (8)

Ivan, post 70 has some info.

c-lyon

iTrader: (8)

Also , for the Vic race demo class they refer to Lower Mainland Spec whatever that is. Post 24.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

Changed to this "Tamiya Euro Truck Class"

1/8 IC Fan

iTrader: (102)

Would have been cool if they put that body on the F103GT chassis!

Teamhotrods

iTrader: (5)

That would have made it handle well and cost double!?

1/8 IC Fan

iTrader: (102)

No it would have been fine that f103gt has less parts, and i dont imagine would be anymore that the TT chassis. But then again it would have been realistic - namely a 2wd RWD truck as the full size ones. When we raced the FG 1:5 Trucks they were all RWD.

At ~126 for the truck vs ~144 for a F103GT (Nismo GTR) its pretty much a wash.

c-lyon

iTrader: (8)

Ivan, also see Tamiyausa rules page 11.

GrandeGixxer

iTrader: (21)

My truck handles pretty good. It’s gotten better the longer I’ve ran it and the looser she gets. I’m running Lucas red and tacky in the front diff and stealth diff lube in the rear diff. On the shocks I have Hudy graphite grease in them.

viking44

This. This alone may convince me to build one of my spare TT02 chassis into euro truck spec. Mind if I steal your idea?

GrandeGixxer

iTrader: (21)

To run the spec class you have to run the tt01e chassis. The body by itself is fairly pricy so you might as well buy the whole kit.

Nerobro

iTrader: (2)

You sure? My F104 is useless without crazy sticky tires and tire goo. :-) And the trucks seem to handle just fine. Actually, remarkably fine...

The TT01 chassis is essentially free. The F103 chassis, isn't. There's almost no scrap from making a TT01, the F103 needs to be cut out from pre-produced fiberglass sheet. The TT01 also has some big advantages for noobies, and this class is not for the deeply experienced. (at least it shoudln't be..) To give some idea of the price of the TT01 chassis, after you consider the cost of the wheels, motor, esc, and body... the TT01 chassis can't cost more then $10.

If you REALLY Want to try euro trucks, 2wd... pop out the front drive axles. It might be exciting! It would definitely be slower, and much, much more difficult to drive. That motor isn't exactly weak... It lights up all 4 on black carpet...

Sadly, the TT02 isn't euro truck legal. At least if you plan on racing euro truck. To repeat Grande, spend the $132 on the whole kit, you get more for your money than if you tried buying the parts kit seperately. I'm pretty sure, once you consider shipping, it'll even be cheaper. In the end, you then have a TT01 chassis to assemble, and sell on ebay. :-) (I did this with a M05 when I needed a new miata body, wheels, and tires)

viking44

Sorry I mis-typed. I meant TT-01. I have both anyway so I just need to convert my 01 to the E. I can find the manual online but is there any kind of addendum for the euro truck? Like body post location and bumper part#? I found the wheel part# earlier in the thread.