Tamiya Euro Truck Class
#1441


Mid-tear down last night to install Tamiya bearing set, replace several incorrect screws, and give it a light cleaning. I also installed the alloy motor mount and a new pinon. The original was in rough shape. It also could use a new spur gear but this one should work for the time being. It would be nice if Tamiya sold the stock spur gear separate, as aposed to buying the whole parts pack it comes with.

Back together but still have some work to do and parts to gather.
I need to get it running today and get a pack or two through it, then I'll tear it down again and rebuild the diffs and re-grease everything.
#1443

Yep....Whatever you do, do not grease anything other than inside the gear diffs...Use only dry lube if you want to go faster....
Also polish all steel parts and spray 303 protectant on all plastic and rubber parts before you TQ....
Also polish all steel parts and spray 303 protectant on all plastic and rubber parts before you TQ....
#1444
#1445
#1446

I know graphite lube is very slippery, but I have never used it. I can't comment on it.....
I also forgot about removing all the bearing grease and seals, and use light oil. Make sure the bearings fit loosely in all the hubs...
I also forgot about removing all the bearing grease and seals, and use light oil. Make sure the bearings fit loosely in all the hubs...
#1448

If it is illegal to remove the bearing seals, then let all the bearings soak in brake cleaner until all the grease is gone, and add a drop of oil per bearing...After that, break in the bearings in the vehicle for at least 100 laps...The more the bearings are run, the faster the truck will go...You can also break in the motor bushings with polish or tooth paste, after zapping the motor magnets: nobody will catch you after that....Lots of folks have old brushed motor zappers at home: good luck getting one on ebay...Hopefully magnet zapping is not against tcs rules, and all tracks should offer magnet zapping services for a small fee to level the field...lol....
#1449

If it is illegal to remove the bearing seals, then let all the bearings soak in brake cleaner until all the grease is gone, and add a drop of oil per bearing...After that, break in the bearings in the vehicle for at least 100 laps...The more the bearings are run, the faster the truck will go...You can also break in the motor bushings with polish or tooth paste, after zapping the motor magnets: nobody will catch you after that....Lots of folks have old brushed motor zappers at home: good luck getting one on ebay...Hopefully magnet zapping is not against tcs rules, and all tracks should offer magnet zapping services for a small fee to level the field...lol....
#1450

And that battery strap isn't legal. And those blue things under the front screws, don't look legal... And the body is missing parts, so isn't legal.
If that truck were on the podium, I'd be making some noise.
#1451

Not to mention that the bearing treatment is gonna make it a maintenance monster.
And that battery strap isn't legal. And those blue things under the front screws, don't look legal... And the body is missing parts, so isn't legal.
If that truck were on the podium, I'd be making some noise.
And that battery strap isn't legal. And those blue things under the front screws, don't look legal... And the body is missing parts, so isn't legal.
If that truck were on the podium, I'd be making some noise.
This is still a work in progress and I realize it is not close to being considered legal. It was in a major state of neglect when I purchased it and continue to find issues. So much so that I’ll likely purchase a new kit and use this as a parts rig. As you mentioned the body is missing pieces not to mention was awfully finished. But I digress, it is enjoyable.

Brought it with me on a work trip to have something to do in the evenings. As I looked it over this evening I found that the rear arms were flipped so it had the incorrect wheelbase. That was fixed as were the rear body mounts. I still need to track down the correct ones for the front as the PO had a homemade set up installed.
Much more to do.
#1452

I'd really recommend getting some decent servo in there. Before I learned my lesson, I was chasing all sorts of problems on cars, until I figured out the car was listening to my commands, just LATER. Those 25kg servos are.. dog slow. Fine for crawlers, bad for race trucks.
I might have spare battery mount stuff. I know I have a spare body.
#1453

Oh, so this is all F'n PO problems. hahahaha.
I'd really recommend getting some decent servo in there. Before I learned my lesson, I was chasing all sorts of problems on cars, until I figured out the car was listening to my commands, just LATER. Those 25kg servos are.. dog slow. Fine for crawlers, bad for race trucks.
I might have spare battery mount stuff. I know I have a spare body.
I'd really recommend getting some decent servo in there. Before I learned my lesson, I was chasing all sorts of problems on cars, until I figured out the car was listening to my commands, just LATER. Those 25kg servos are.. dog slow. Fine for crawlers, bad for race trucks.
I might have spare battery mount stuff. I know I have a spare body.
Great tip about the servo. Not only is it slow, it is really heavy. I'll need to do a little research and figure out what is a good solution.
Last edited by 94SRUNNER; 07-01-2022 at 12:37 PM.
#1454

I like the HobbyKing Trackstar D99x, or TS-411. Both are fast enough nobody who's used my cars have noticed.
You can't go wrong with Savox. To get more suggestions you'll need to ask here. :-) I sorted out my servo problem 4 years ago, and haven't needed to look again since.
You can't go wrong with Savox. To get more suggestions you'll need to ask here. :-) I sorted out my servo problem 4 years ago, and haven't needed to look again since.
#1455