IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Obviously you should check to make sure the diff is assembled correctly and there are no deformed parts. I also like to make sure there aren't any excessive burrs on the metal bevel gears parts that could cause binding. I like to keep a spare built diff in my parts box so I can diffs with different dampening properties. To build a complete diff from parts you will need...

Tamiya #50573 - 2x8mm screws (10 pieces)
Tamiya #51004 - includes internal diff housing, diff bevel ring gear & bevel pinion gear
Tamiya #51008 - metal bevel gears for the internal diff housing

You should be able to find these parts right now either directly at TamiyaUSA.com or Amazon.com at the time of this posting (October 12, 2021)

You can slightly affect the "feel" of the diff by how much you tighten down the three 2x8mm screw that hold the diff assembly together. You obviously don't want to over-tighten the screws so much that it deforms the plastic housing or bevel ring gear. But tighter screws = tighter diff, looser screws = looser diff. Again, this is a very minor adjustment. I prefer to tighten my diff enough for smooth action with no binding or loose parts.

If you really want to affect the performance of the diff, then you will want to use different types of putty, grease, or diff oils. However these are considered open diffs, so any oil will eventually leak out as there are no o-rings or gaskets to prevent leakage. This leakage can get into the diff bushings/bearings, so be prepared to perform periodic maintenance on these parts. Some people will will uses greases to act as a gasket for the oils to prevent leakage. There should be some tutorials in this thread or the TT-01 or TT-02 threads on RCTECH.net on how to put oil in the stock diffs on these cars.

As far as the legality of using oils in the diffs on an Eurotruck, rule 16.15 states the any grease or lube may be used to lubricate gear or moving parts. The current TCS rules can be found here...
https://www.tamiyausa.com/tcs/rules/
If racing at a TCS event, always check to see if there are any location specific rules or exceptions that must be adhered to for that event. Examples of track specific rules I've experienced include allowing people to remove the plastic heat shield by the motor, how much if any of the tire sidewall you are allowed to glue, and allowing square pack batteries instead of "stick-pack" style lipos.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

with the diff housing, I often sand the inside a tad where it looks like the gears are really close (to the housing). I also don't overtighten the diff' housing, it should be secure but not super tight.
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with using oil in the front diff, I run 1mil, yet after a few months of use and during hot months it does eventually leak out. Be sure to check it frequently ...you'll know you have a problem when it leaks into the front bearings and your truck randomly pulls from one side to the other on a straight.

Kregger

iTrader: (2)

I should have phrased it differently,. It wasn't the diffs themselves it was the case they fit into. "A" parts tree 51318 part 9. I had to dremel off some material where the bearings go. It seems like it was putting pressure on the bearing and causing the ring gear to apply to much pressure on the pinion.

typhon92

A training at a French RC club with my Buggyra

Kregger

iTrader: (2)

Its going to be my loaner vehicle.

mcreeder

Does anyone know what the offset is for the 51588 wheels? I know they are different front and rear so I was looking for a different option for the fronts as seem to go through front tyres much faster than rears

f1larry

iTrader: (22)

I don’t know what the offsets are but I do know they are the same as the rears that is why it is legal to run front wheels on all 4 wheels. They allowed it because the rears break easily.

jgraham37128

iTrader: (25)

Will a 48p 19tooth pinion work with the Tamiya 61t spur?

I see it says it will but multiple people say it’s not the same mesh?

rcracersb

iTrader: (67)

correct you need the metric pitch. I wanna say it’s .6. Buy a hardened one to begin with and save yourself the hassle of changing it out. Mine wore very quickly. Hardened has lasted awhile and sounds so much smoother.

Stiggosaurus

iTrader: (4)

Finished up my Euro truck build this past weekend and have been pretty happy with the results! This was my first Tamiya build, which in hindsight, this model probably wasn't the best one to start with. That being said, I've had a blast running it around the garage and parking lots. Really wish there was somewhere to race these locally. It was built completely stock with the exception of aluminum motor mount, center shaft, and outdrives.

Only one real question: the manual doesn't mention anything about tire foam. Is that really correct? The tires feel a bit flimsy with just the rubber, so curious if that really is correct.

Pictures of the Final Result

GerryH

iTrader: (26)

No foam is the stock way of running them. Since you've already hopped your truck up, you could try adding foam. You wouldn't be allowed to do this if you're racing. Because of the unusual size, you'll have to figure something out.

Stiggosaurus

iTrader: (4)

Right on, thanks. I'll probably just go with no foam then. The aluminum parts are easy enough to remove if I do happen to find anywhere nearby racing these.

Johnryan30

Hey folks I am looking at picking up a complete used TT01-E Euro Truck from someone on fb. My question is, Is $140.00 shipped a good deal for one of these trucks. I am kind of a noob and I don’t know anything about them besides the couple reviews I have read. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated TIA

WhiteLX

iTrader: (11)

Does it come with anything other than the truck? Any electronics, battery, bearings?

TheRickster

Just looking for some updated info.

I have a Reedy Wolfpack 3300 thta came with a sct I planned on trying to use for this truck in our local class. Problem is the battery is like 2MM too long.

Kind of reaching out because this battery and a protek one are listed everywhere as being a recommended one. Am I missing something to get this guy in there or something?