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Tamiya Euro Truck Class

Old 10-26-2020, 08:53 AM
  #1261  
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Originally Posted by sps3172
I've built 2 Fat Fox kits. Wheel arches seemed to line up perfectly. I think you must have missed something.
You're right. I did. I examined the instructions again, and realized I mixed up the front and rear posts. After rearranging everything properly, the body lines up to the millimeter. Usual Tamiya precision.
Thanks!
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Old 10-26-2020, 12:14 PM
  #1262  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
Wow, crazy, I don't deny you've broken 3 wheels, but that is insane. I've been racing the Euro trucks since they came out (what 3 years now)? ...Have raced w/ lots of drivers at several clubs, i've never heard of this. I've never broken any parts on my Euro truck, haven't seen other break much either ...they seem really strong (again my opinion) and seem to be able to take a beating. Granted I don't really crash, occasionally take a hit from another driver but ...a broken wheel must be some hard a$$ hits.
I've also been racing Euro for about 3 years. And I have broken hub on the rear wheel several times. It's always the right rear and no, the hits aren't hard at all. In fact I don't realize something is wrong until I realize I don't have very good acceleration (diff out). It must be just the right combination to get them to break. I've always ran the chrome wheels, wonder if there's any difference between the chrome and black ones.

Now I'm having problems with my front left dogbone popping out all the time. Never had that issue before and now it happens all the time. I never lose it, as it just ends up between the control arms. Think that has the do with going into a corner and the truck lifts and that tire unloads and when it comes back to the ground the combination of high rpm and full turn makes it pop out. I'm trying a new axle to see if it has to do with wear to the slot.
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Old 11-12-2020, 09:50 PM
  #1263  
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Just ordered one of these trucks to get into carpet racing again. Any tips for me or suggestions for spare parts to have around. Also do the factory bushings hold up or should I just switch to hearing from the start?
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Old 11-12-2020, 09:51 PM
  #1264  
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Originally Posted by rc18/xxxt racer
Just ordered one of these trucks to get into carpet racing again. Any tips for me or suggestions for spare parts to have around. Also do the factory bushings hold up or should I just switch to hearing from the start?
theyíre tough as nails. mine has been raced for 3 seasons and only broken wheels. And I am NOT easy on it.

skip the bushings, buy a bearing kit.
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Old 11-14-2020, 05:07 PM
  #1265  
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Originally Posted by rc18/xxxt racer
Just ordered one of these trucks to get into carpet racing again. Any tips for me or suggestions for spare parts to have around. Also do the factory bushings hold up or should I just switch to hearing from the start?
Buy another set of wheels and use front wheels in the rear. The rear wheels are fragile. This is TCS legal BTW.
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Old 11-17-2020, 08:47 PM
  #1266  
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Brushed motor break in recommended?
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Old 11-17-2020, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rc18/xxxt racer
Brushed motor break in recommended?
unnecessary in my experience. The guys that Iíve seen break them in had no advantage over those of us that didnít.
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Old 11-20-2020, 11:53 AM
  #1268  
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Was looking to buy some Tamiya body sets and I noticed that the new Mercedes Euro Truck is at least listed on the TamiyaUSA website. It is listed as Tamiya #51654. Below is a link to that part. As usual, the MSRP is probably higher that what this actual part would be.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/190mm...-truck-actros/
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Old 11-20-2020, 09:30 PM
  #1269  
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Bearings are a must of you plan to do any racing. You will be at disadvantage without. Break in not as important as cleaning the comm regularly. I use regular brass cleaner paste with a qtip. That makes a difference ... tested with motor dyno. Gained about 2k in rpm after cleaning dirty comm half way through season.
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Old 11-23-2020, 05:46 AM
  #1270  
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Originally Posted by Red141
Buy another set of wheels and use front wheels in the rear. The rear wheels are fragile. This is TCS legal BTW.

Thanks for the tip!
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Old 11-27-2020, 07:38 AM
  #1271  
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Originally Posted by rc18/xxxt racer
Brushed motor break in recommended?
I would say yes, but not for gaining speed.advantage.

I always break brushes in to reduce the com spark which does blacken the com. Blackened com can make more heat and even slow down the motor, even by 2k. There are 2 ways of breaking in brushes. Either long and slow or a quick water dip. I prefer long and slow but if don't have time will do a 30-60 second water dip.
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Old 11-27-2020, 05:12 PM
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Do I need to program out reverse out the esc for racing and any link to a English esc manual
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Old 11-27-2020, 07:41 PM
  #1273  
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Originally Posted by A-Ko
I would say yes, but not for gaining speed.advantage.

I always break brushes in to reduce the com spark which does blacken the com. Blackened com can make more heat and even slow down the motor, even by 2k. There are 2 ways of breaking in brushes. Either long and slow or a quick water dip. I prefer long and slow but if don't have time will do a 30-60 second water dip.
How does a long and slow method work?
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Old 11-30-2020, 08:33 AM
  #1274  
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Originally Posted by rc18/xxxt racer
Do I need to program out reverse out the esc for racing and any link to a English esc manual
You don't have to eliminate reverse. Most drivers have reverse so they can reposition themselves on the start or if during practice they get stuck on a barrier.

Online manual for the Tamiya TBLE-02S that comes with the Eurotruck: https://www.tamiyausa.com/media/file...l-801-efb9.pdf
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Old 11-30-2020, 08:55 AM
  #1275  
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Originally Posted by rc18/xxxt racer
Do I need to program out reverse out the esc for racing and any link to a English esc manual
It's helpful to have it during practice, I just remind myself not to use it during racing. It does seem to have a rather quick engagement to reverse when going slowly.
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