sps3172

iTrader: (1)

Anyone, I repeat, anyone is capable of driving SLOW enough so as not to crash. It's just a matter of being willing to do it. Learn how to drive with no crashes first...then learn speed. Your durability issues will be a thing of the past....unless you get hit by someone who needs to hear this speech. You can refer back here and give them the news.

mrreet2001

iTrader: (9)

Tamiya Euro Truck rules:
It doesn't say you can't use all fronts. Does anyone know how this in enforced in the TRS?

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

I always got the impression that if it’s not in the box originally, can’t use it. So buying more fronts would be outside the rule.

sps3172

iTrader: (1)

All the local goups I've seen allow front wheels all the way around. I think the ETRL (Tony Phalen) also permit 4 front wheels. I don't know what happens at an actual TCS race, however.

mrreet2001

iTrader: (9)

Durp ... I missed rule 17.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

This picture shows a TT-01R Type-E with a fan mounted on the motor/gear cover. While the fan pictured does keep the motor cooler, I found that removing the plastic motor cover was usually enough to keep the motor a decent temperature when racing TT-01's. Some tracks/races I've been to allowed the removal of the plastic motor cover. If you must use the cover, I would recommend running a fan.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Here is a picture of another one of my TT-01R Type-E cars with a high torque server saver. I didn't like the geometry of the stock servo/steering link on the servo I was using, so I replaced it with a turnbuckle. I replaced the shoulder screws on each end of the link with the ball studs that were included with the high torque servo saver kit. I assume this modification WOULD NOT BE LEGAL for TCS Eurotruck racing.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Yeah, we are following by TCS rules so we can't replace it with a turnbuckle.

I am going to try the single hole high torque servo saver and look for a plastic nut.

angrymelon

iTrader: (1)

In case you were looking for them:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/jconcep...co2157/p231251

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

Wow, crazy, I don't deny you've broken 3 wheels, but that is insane. I've been racing the Euro trucks since they came out (what 3 years now)? ...Have raced w/ lots of drivers at several clubs, i've never heard of this. I've never broken any parts on my Euro truck, haven't seen other break much either ...they seem really strong (again my opinion) and seem to be able to take a beating. Granted I don't really crash, occasionally take a hit from another driver but ...a broken wheel must be some hard a$$ hits.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Below is a picture of a servo I just mounted into a Tamiya TT01-E kit that I'm currently building. I just installed a Tamiya #51000 Hi-Torque Servo Saver (Black) onto the Futaba BLS451 servo that is in the car.

I didn't currently have any plastic nuts but I did have some used Tamiya steering rod ball cup/plastic ends from one of my Tamiya M-chassis kits. You can see a loose one on the white towel next to the chassis. I screwed the shoulder screw through the servo horn and into the end of the ball cup. I cut off the excess from the ball cup and now I have a quick plastic nut.

If you have/own other tamiya kits, I'm sure you have some left over ball cups laying around in your parts. I hope this information helps! Also a big thanks to angrymelon's post/picture of his servo saver install.

BelknapCrater

I assembled a Buggyra kit per the instructions, using the body posts called for in the Euro Truck addendum. Trimmed the lower body and drilled body post holes right at Tamiya's marks. Now, the wheels are 2-3 mm forward of where they should be in the wheel arches. Has this come up for anyone else? Sorry, I'm new here and can't post pictures.
At the least, I can heat the posts up and put slight bends in them.
Thanks

sps3172

iTrader: (1)

I've built 2 Fat Fox kits. Wheel arches seemed to line up perfectly. I think you must have missed something.

angrymelon

iTrader: (1)

Is it possible that you have the rear mounts and the front mounts swapped?

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Confirm that you installed the rear suspension arms in the correct position. The TT-01 E can be setup as a short or long wheelbase car (not sure of exact dimensions/differences). Refer to Page 6 step 7 to make sure the a-arms are correct for the kit you are building. I've made this mistake when building a Euro Truck.

Also make sure you are using the correct body posts for the Buggyra/Euro Truck bodies. You should refer to the body post instructions included with the body and not the instructions in the chassis manual. It has been a while since I built a Euro Truck, but there should have been a separate bag of body posts that were included with the kit. Below is a photo of 2 different Tamiya TT-01 body posts and you should be able to see how using the wrong one could shift the body a few millimeters.

As posted above by angrymelon, make sure you are using the correct body posts in the front/rear. Due to the design of the chassis and the manual it is easy to get confused which end of the car you are working on. I've made this mistake also when working on a Tamiya TT-01.

If anyone has lost or discarded their manuals, they can be downloaded directly from Tamiya. The complete TT-01 Buggyra kit is part number 58661. The manual for this kit can be downloaded from the following link. Just look for the RED CIRCLE with the down arrow for the download.
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...acing-fat-fox/

The Buggyra body set is Tamiya part number 51613 and can be purchased separately. Below is a link where you can see a photo that shows the body posts that were included with the body.
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/190mm...ggyra-fat-fox/

Hope this information helps.