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-   -   Tamiya Euro Truck Class (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/970907-tamiya-euro-truck-class.html)

Tim Neja 03-17-2019 12:26 PM

Hey---I LOVE being able to tinker on cars and setup! I AM a racer---BUT--when a class is SUPPOSED to be box stock with only ONE change--I'm willing to stay within the rules!! And the first heat--there were 6-7 trucks ALL on the same lap at the end of the heat. All good drivers--VERY equal trucks. The second heat-- a few trucks put a lap on the field---in the last heat-- 2 trucks put 2 laps on the field!! and it wasn't the driving that made the difference--I watched them put 20' on some trucks down the straight!! Ridiculous--and it took the FUN out of the race because what MADE it FUN---was how EQUAL the trucks started out being!! I know there were several racers I saw that probably wont' race the class again. It's just sad--
I also race F-1--NO COMPLAINTS HERE--because it's a class with rules that seem to be followed--and I have through the help of the "fast guys" --become competitive!! These cars are GREAT--and LOT'S of variables for tuning!! LOVE the class!!

Nerobro 03-17-2019 01:23 PM


Originally Posted by Tim Neja (Post 15415383)
---BUT--when a class is SUPPOSED to be box stock with only ONE change-

Are you sure? To quote the 2019 TCS rules.


Originally Posted by TCS Rules
13. Adding FOAM material to the kit foam bumper is permitted.
14. Must use kit type tires and wheels. Note: Kit tires may be glued onto wheel.
15. Any grease or lube may be used to lubricate gears or moving parts.

That's at least three changes. As detailed here, gluing sidewalls, and sometimes the tread is also legal.

I'm still amused there's a minimum weight. That's pushing things in the wrong direction.

anthonyscardina 03-17-2019 05:09 PM

Why is there even a minimum weight at all? I think I was something like 130g over with no weight :lol:

hobbyten 03-17-2019 07:48 PM

Why don't we all the race and have fun and quit complaining.

Nerobro 03-17-2019 08:22 PM

We're at home. We can't be racing. So.. what are we supposed to do otherwise?


Originally Posted by anthonyscardina (Post 15415491)
Why is there even a minimum weight at all? I think I was something like 130g over with no weight :lol:

Yeah, it bugs me too. And I've seen people put hundreds of grams of balast on their cars. A maximum weight would make more sense.

Tim Neja 03-17-2019 08:27 PM

I"m over it---let's go race--I'll put the truck up for someone else to have fun with! :)

F N CUDA 03-18-2019 08:00 AM


Originally Posted by Tim Neja (Post 15415620)
I"m over it---let's go race--I'll put the truck up for someone else to have fun with! :)

Nah man, not yet.
Git yer ass to Cal this coming weekend for UF1 and get on board with us kickin around the Ultimate trucks were gonna start up real soon.
Stock and "Not so stock" truck classes.
That's gonna be a blast!

nbTMM 03-19-2019 12:50 AM


Originally Posted by Nerobro (Post 15413163)
Oh geeze, can you imagine the teardown to find that diff? I don't think I've ever had my diffs checked...

well, the small metal cups/outdrives only work with metal universal driveshafts or metal dog bones, so it would be obvious from the outside if you had that diff installed. You could perhaps modify the standard plastic/metal outdrives to work with it but if you're going to that effort you could probably just as easily modify the standard diff to hold oil.

Lou E 03-23-2019 08:33 AM

Batteries
 
Hello everyone, new guy here.

It has been many years since I was involved with rc, last kit I bought was the original Mini Monte Carlo, but a few weeks ago I saw the Fat Fox truck and decided to buy it for an upcoming TCS race being held locally on August 4th. I know it’s a ways away but figured I would need the practice time!

To say things have changed is an understatement, no more radio crystals and Novak is gone :( , and then there’s all the different types of batteries... I’m trying to learn what I can in my free time, think I narrowed down the radio I will be buying, but I’m very confused about the batteries available. I know I need LiPo, but even searching the brands recommended by Tamiya in the TCS rules, I’m still scratching my head on which batteries to buy.

What are you guys running that is legal for the TCS race? Also, what are you using for a charger? What is the minimum amount of batteries you show up at a race with? I may enter another class as well, thinking of the one with the Ford Mustang or the M class so I have a reason to buy the Alfa, we will see...

Thank you in advance for any help.

Jtipsy 03-23-2019 11:05 AM

Get a reedy wolfpack lipo 3200 is more than enough if you want more just find a higher mah lipo. Just make sure that sides are rounded as it will not fit a square edge pack in there.

man1ac 03-23-2019 11:30 PM

We want to start a snack local club race with the trucks and I was thinking of getting one used. Found one and it has the "old" body on it. Are there any information of how the fat fix body is faster?

Milez 03-24-2019 10:05 AM


Originally Posted by man1ac (Post 15419037)
We want to start a snack local club race with the trucks and I was thinking of getting one used. Found one and it has the "old" body on it. Are there any information of how the fat fix body is faster?

We just raced at the TCS event at Windy City RC, where we had 23 people racing Euro Truck. All of the A main had the new Fat Fox Body. The B and C mains wete a mixture.

For best my best reference, one of the local racers at WCRC who races mod 1/12th scale on a national level, decided to run another local guys "old" kit for fun during the TCS race. Started out with the old body and a chassis running the bronze bushings on the diffs. By the second round of qualifying he was sitting at the 5th or 6th seed with the old body.

In talking with him between rounds he mentioned that he would like to see how the truck would work with new body, so we swapped in my daughter's Fat Fox shell on to his chassis. His lap times dropped about two tenths of a second. This is on black carpet on a fairly mixed layout.

I believe that if the guys running in the A main would have been there no matter which body they were running.

Get the truck, start racing it, and have fun! The new body is available if you want it and it is an easy swap between the two. Time will tell which body is best suited for what type of track.

jag88 03-24-2019 12:30 PM

I did a back to back and found the cab over to be easier to drive (less edgy) giving faster lap times.
Black med. grip carpet.
fwiw

XSRCdesign 03-24-2019 12:49 PM

I think part of it is the “new” body also means a “newer” build.

These as things seem to run better when they are a little fresher. At least that’s what it looks like to me.

f1larry 03-24-2019 02:52 PM

The new body is good for .5-.75 second a lap faster. The new body is lower, and moves weight from in front of the front wheels to behind them balancing the car better.


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