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-   -   Tamiya Euro Truck Class (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/970907-tamiya-euro-truck-class.html)

DaSilva3525 01-24-2019 09:04 AM


Originally Posted by BD1541 (Post 15381496)
Seeing your post here may well confirm why i was having issues with the rear end snapping on power corners with this body else its my truck chassis but then again it eas running good with thr hahn body just before this. Can you post your feedback as soon as you try it. Rellly curious whats going on here.

I just ordered a Fox kit so I will report back in a couple weeks once it's up and going :)

DaSilva3525 01-24-2019 09:13 AM


Originally Posted by TT_Vert (Post 15381777)
So after a 4+ year hiatus I went ahead and picked up a euro truck. All i can say is holy traction rolling batman. It's both on and off power as well. Perhaps you guys could give me some input. It's a high bite black carpet. The roll seems to be semi violent and quick like it's catching but I have no real idea what is going on.

What I've tried/setup

Chassis:
Brand new kit, nothing binds. No weight but I cannot see 10-30g fixing this.
Diffs:
1M in front, started w/ 500k in back. I eventually thought perhaps the rear diff was trying to drive through the front tires w/ the thick rear lube so I cleaned out nearly all the 500 so it's almost open just to see if it helped and it did maybe slightly but still rolled
Shocks:
Started stock (position and internals) then put in some foam that others were using to try see if it made any difference (It did not). Tried to stand front shocks up a bit more to stiffen the front suspension, no affect.
Tire compound
Started w/ full rear and nothing in front. Erroneously thought if I had a ton of traction in back that it'd push, no such luck. Was cleaning the front tires as well to get anything off them that was picked up on the track. Tried no compound front/rear and it still rolled.
Tires:
In front; glued sidewall from rim to top mold flash before tread inside.and out. Rear; I only have glue on the outside sidewall, same coverage. I also tried swapping front/rear and after that it'd oversteer horribly on power to the point it'd spin out but oddly I think I was still getting traction rolling somehow.. The problem does seem to follow the front tires some but looking at the tires and gluing I don't really see any issues or major differences in sidewall stiffness. I hope to find another euro truck at the track to use their tires for a few laps to see if i is in fact the front tires. No idea why this would be though.

Body:
I have the body about as low as I can get it and it's free to float a hair but did a lap w/o it and i still got it to traction roll once, although it was much more manageable.

Any input would be appreciated, it's certainly not fun to have to worry about tipping every other corner.

Thanks much,

Dave

I run on black CRC as well.. I just posted this on a FB group so I will share it here as well. A lot of your hop is coming from your packed diffs.

Gluing the side walls all the way helps a lot, even covering the first tread. I would run my body as low as possible even on notch down from where you currently are at will make a difference.. You can put the body pin one hole higher (above the lid) so the body as room to move on the post and it's not so snug. For the diffs don't pack a lot of AW grease just enough to cover the gears. (a little diffing out action is not bad for these kits) Having them packed just has it so locked in and causes it to bounce like a mad. If not the first couple laps it for sure will eventually. Lastly the driving style has to change with TT01 Trucks lol.. go in hard towards the corners but use a good amount of brake and jam the throttle coming out is one method or driving it super smooth and coasting through the corners with as little steering input as you can. I found the happy medium between those two driving styles for the best result. I would sauce the first line on the the front inside tire and full rear. Personally I always ran the shocks inboard for a more progressive feel.

I ran no grease on the shocks, no extra weight, just everything box kit with bearings and it rocks.

TT_Vert 01-24-2019 10:54 AM

I'm not sure where you get the bounce issue from. I have an excessive traction roll issue. I can't really move the body down any more (and even if I did it'd be 1/4: which is not going to eliminate this issue) unless I secure the battery wires as they push up a bit on the body as they 90 to the Esc.

Dave

Nickk 01-24-2019 12:44 PM


Originally Posted by OVA (Post 14765845)
What racer think of this new EURO Semi-Truck GT?

Wow this is so cool, also kinda hilarious to watch haha. Makes me want one!

vivo quevas 01-24-2019 01:15 PM

Are these new trucks as fast as the old truck xue to the smaller front tires?

Core Creations 01-24-2019 01:34 PM


Originally Posted by DaSilva3525 (Post 15381285)
There is a FB group for TT01 Truck racing.. one guy went all out measuring and weighing the two bodies. The new Fox body is 50G lighter, roof line is lower and of course shoved back versus the man cab forward. Some food for thought :)

I sold my Hahn kit off a few months ago but got it working really well. If the new body is any improvement it will show in the lap times / over 6 mins for sure.

I still don’t buy .2 a lap from only a body change to this chassis/class. The body is 28g lighter...and yes lower...but I would be super surprised that it’s that much of an advantage with a well sorted OG body truck with a good driver. I think maybe people that didn’t nail the setup with the original body like this better and it makes their truck feel more sorted...because they didn’t have the original dialed. Show me the lap times that are super consistent from the original body and switch nothing but the body and now ow show me the Fat Fox is .2 a lap (consistently) faster...same day/track/setup.

If I had a dime for every time somebody said “this X is .2 faster” I’d be a wealthy man...and in theory had I followed all that advice...I’d have a race car that does 1/2 sec laps from all the .2 I gained over the years.

Not arguing...just my .2 lol

TT_Vert 01-24-2019 01:43 PM


Originally Posted by Core Creations (Post 15382002)

I still donít buy .2 a lap from only a body change to this chassis/class. The body is 28g lighter...and yes lower...but I would be super surprised that itís that much of an advantage with a well sorted OG body truck with a good driver. I think maybe people that didnít nail the setup with the original body like this better and it makes their truck feel more sorted...because they didnít have the original dialed. Show me the lap times that are super consistent from the original body and switch nothing but the body and now ow show me the Fat Fox is .2 a lap (consistently) faster...same day/track/setup.

If I had a dime for every time somebody said ďthis X is .2 fasterĒ Iíd be a wealthy man...and in theory had I followed all that advice...Iíd have a race car that does 1/2 sec laps from all the .2 I gained over the years.

Not arguing...just my .2 lol

It also betters the F/R weight distribution. The stock body changes F/R distribution 8% on my truck.

Core Creations 01-24-2019 01:53 PM

Betters or balances to your preference? I like a car/truck that steers on its nose...that suits my style, hence why I like how the original body handles. I would not like a more neutral feeling.

TT_Vert 01-24-2019 01:57 PM


Originally Posted by Core Creations (Post 15382015)
Betters or balances to your preference? I like a car/truck that steers on its nose...that suits my style, hence why I like how the original body handles. I would not like a more neutral feeling.

I have only driven my truck once and mostly it was on it's side (At least twice a lap so I meant just for a 50/50 distribution. Prior to body I'm at 54R/46F. After it's 54F/46R

Dave

DaSilva3525 01-24-2019 02:23 PM


Originally Posted by Core Creations (Post 15382002)

I still donít buy .2 a lap from only a body change to this chassis/class. The body is 28g lighter...and yes lower...but I would be super surprised that itís that much of an advantage with a well sorted OG body truck with a good driver. I think maybe people that didnít nail the setup with the original body like this better and it makes their truck feel more sorted...because they didnít have the original dialed. Show me the lap times that are super consistent from the original body and switch nothing but the body and now ow show me the Fat Fox is .2 a lap (consistently) faster...same day/track/setup.

If I had a dime for every time somebody said ďthis X is .2 fasterĒ Iíd be a wealthy man...and in theory had I followed all that advice...Iíd have a race car that does 1/2 sec laps from all the .2 I gained over the years.

Not arguing...just my .2 lol

I hear you lol. I always think TC related, like slapping a mazda 6 or LTCR on your current kit and then go slap a Type S. Not saying a tenth or two every lap but you will notice a difference right away. Whether it's the improved design, weight or just a mental thing just a matter of a few laps to drop the et down some more (I would be happy with any et loss on any kit Tbh), and more comfortable while doing it. Being able to push harder more often is where I think it seals the deal for many on it being a "faster lid" then the previous version. The Hahn body is like a wall in the wind, My theory being the new Fox body aero wise is better, a little lighter and lower then the Hahn should net in a better result if you know what's going on :)

This hits home :lol: "and in theory had I followed all that advice...Iíd have a race car that does 1/2 sec laps from all the .2 I gained over the years."

Billy Kelly 01-24-2019 02:59 PM

Everyone else will just start running the BittyDesign body to equal out the aero advantage

DaSilva3525 01-24-2019 03:16 PM


Originally Posted by Billy Kelly (Post 15382064)
Everyone else will just start running the BittyDesign body to equal out the aero advantage

Box stock means no bitty bodies. I love what they did with it but itís not for the box stock class in anyway. Thatís a practice body if anything.. just wish the Tamiya truck bodies werenít a million dollars lol.

Billy Kelly 01-24-2019 03:41 PM


Originally Posted by DaSilva3525 (Post 15382079)


Box stock means no bitty bodies. I love what they did with it but itís not for the box stock class in anyway. Thatís a practice body if anything.. just wish the Tamiya truck bodies werenít a million dollars lol.

I know. I was joking, Iím sure that some will push for it. Especially if the the Fox truck does seem better. I do plan to get the bitty body at some point.

vivo quevas 01-24-2019 07:49 PM


Originally Posted by Core Creations (Post 15382002)

I still donít buy .2 a lap from only a body change to this chassis/class. The body is 28g lighter...and yes lower...but I would be super surprised that itís that much of an advantage with a well sorted OG body truck with a good driver. I think maybe people that didnít nail the setup with the original body like this better and it makes their truck feel more sorted...because they didnít have the original dialed. Show me the lap times that are super consistent from the original body and switch nothing but the body and now ow show me the Fat Fox is .2 a lap (consistently) faster...same day/track/setup.

If I had a dime for every time somebody said ďthis X is .2 fasterĒ Iíd be a wealthy man...and in theory had I followed all that advice...Iíd have a race car that does 1/2 sec laps from all the .2 I gained over the years.

Not arguing...just my .2 lol

OK what happens when a good driver puts this body on his or hers well sorted out chassis?
there goes your argument.
Just my .2 cents

Billy Kelly 01-24-2019 07:54 PM


Originally Posted by vivo quevas (Post 15382234)
OK what happens when a good driver puts this body on his or hers well sorted out chassis?
there goes your argument.
Just my .2 cents

Same thing when they use the standard body. They will be faster. A very good driver could win USGT running a shoebox for a body.


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