867LikesTamiya Euro Truck Class
03-29-2018, 07:15 AM
#556
Any thoughts on this?
03-29-2018, 07:18 AM
#557
Darth's truck had the servo saver skipping over teeth even tough it felt like it fit right. I'm going to try some adapters that came with a Traxxas kit. Or grab a Kimbrough servo saver.
03-29-2018, 09:02 AM
#558
Use the tamiya high torque servo saver.
03-29-2018, 09:22 AM
#559
03-29-2018, 09:32 AM
#560
The included servo adapter had a tight fit, very snug. I doubt it would skip over. I just finished building this kit over the weekend and unable to get the darn thing centered. May have to look at the Kimbrough servo saver. Hate to see if the splines are placed in the exact location as the original Tamiya stock servo saver.
03-29-2018, 10:34 AM
#561
The servo Saver in the kit is not the same thing as Tamia's high-torque Servo saver
03-29-2018, 10:34 AM
#562
I have been running the same service saver for over a year with no problems
03-29-2018, 11:38 AM
#563
Question. Unable to get true center on my HiTech servo. Using SkyRC Radio. When I attempt to get center, my radio is either set to L30 max (still steers to slight right) or R30 max (still steers slight left) and still unable to get it to drive straight. Just that one notch on the spline sends the supplied servo saver to far left or too far right.
Has anyone had this issue?
Has anyone had this issue?
You need to use a function called "sub-trim" on your radio. If your radio doesn't have it, you're pretty much SOL, sorry.
If your radio has sub-trims, proceed like this:
everything reset to zero (subtrim, trim,EPAs, dual rate).
Then put on the horn/ servo saver on the servo output, as close as you can to the desired angle.
Then adjust your steering sub-trim to find the desired angle. There you go, you have set a new "center" for your servo.
You can now adjust the length of your steering linkage (if applicable),
then set your EPAs and last but not least, your dual rate.
HTH
P.S. I have had nothing but problems with Hitec servos. Not to mention, their 24T spline makes them a pain to find servo horns for. I personally would stay with Futaba, Sanwa or Ko Propo. Same goes for your radio. Stay with those three brands, Sanwa being king among racers. Not trying to criticize, sincerely trying to save you time and money. I've wasted so much of it in the past...
Things you can "sort of" cheap out on if you're not racing seriously: ESC, motor, lipos. Things you should never, ever cheap out on, no matter your level: radio and servo. IMHO
03-30-2018, 05:13 AM
#564
You need to use a function called "sub-trim" on your radio. If your radio doesn't have it, you're pretty much SOL, sorry.
If your radio has sub-trims, proceed like this:
everything reset to zero (subtrim, trim,EPAs, dual rate).
Then put on the horn/ servo saver on the servo output, as close as you can to the desired angle.
Then adjust your steering sub-trim to find the desired angle. There you go, you have set a new "center" for your servo.
You can now adjust the length of your steering linkage (if applicable),
then set your EPAs and last but not least, your dual rate.
HTH
P.S. I have had nothing but problems with Hitec servos. Not to mention, their 24T spline makes them a pain to find servo horns for. I personally would stay with Futaba, Sanwa or Ko Propo. Same goes for your radio. Stay with those three brands, Sanwa being king among racers. Not trying to criticize, sincerely trying to save you time and money. I've wasted so much of it in the past...
Things you can "sort of" cheap out on if you're not racing seriously: ESC, motor, lipos. Things you should never, ever cheap out on, no matter your level: radio and servo. IMHO
If your radio has sub-trims, proceed like this:
everything reset to zero (subtrim, trim,EPAs, dual rate).
Then put on the horn/ servo saver on the servo output, as close as you can to the desired angle.
Then adjust your steering sub-trim to find the desired angle. There you go, you have set a new "center" for your servo.
You can now adjust the length of your steering linkage (if applicable),
then set your EPAs and last but not least, your dual rate.
HTH
P.S. I have had nothing but problems with Hitec servos. Not to mention, their 24T spline makes them a pain to find servo horns for. I personally would stay with Futaba, Sanwa or Ko Propo. Same goes for your radio. Stay with those three brands, Sanwa being king among racers. Not trying to criticize, sincerely trying to save you time and money. I've wasted so much of it in the past...
Things you can "sort of" cheap out on if you're not racing seriously: ESC, motor, lipos. Things you should never, ever cheap out on, no matter your level: radio and servo. IMHO
I had a Futaba 3PK and was stolen along with other chargers and equipment. I had to get a radio asap. Found the SkyRC one. 2 for $50. Not bad.
I will try what you stated and hoping this can fix it. Links are not adjustable since this truck is bone stock and must remain to race it at my local tracks.
03-31-2018, 08:16 PM
#569
I thought I might share my new setup on my truck.
I'm running 20g steel on the battery side to ballance the chassis. I'm running the Peak 4200 battery pack.
My body has a lot of reinforcement under the cab, and probally need another dose of fiberglass drywall tape and e6000. I have also put stacks of foam to support the cab. (As is legal per the TCS guidelines)
I have my shocks in the facotry locations, with 1 million weight diff oil in them. It takes 2-3 months for it all to leak out. It does mean wiping off the suspension arms every so often.
I have a lot of glue on the tires. The rear tires are glued to the texture change on the sidewalls, both inside and outside. The front tires, are to the tread, both inside and outside.
My front diff has million weight in it, and has not leaked so far. The rear diff has 200k weight in it (this is my most recent change)
I apply STX tire sauce on the rear tires before the first run of the day, and I'll add more if the car starts to oversteer.
I put the body on "loose" with the body clips high up to provide room for body bounce.
And... I think that's it.
I run on black carpet.
So.. what have I broken? Three rear wheels. One front body mount. Hopefully this helps someone.
I'm running 20g steel on the battery side to ballance the chassis. I'm running the Peak 4200 battery pack.
My body has a lot of reinforcement under the cab, and probally need another dose of fiberglass drywall tape and e6000. I have also put stacks of foam to support the cab. (As is legal per the TCS guidelines)
I have my shocks in the facotry locations, with 1 million weight diff oil in them. It takes 2-3 months for it all to leak out. It does mean wiping off the suspension arms every so often.
I have a lot of glue on the tires. The rear tires are glued to the texture change on the sidewalls, both inside and outside. The front tires, are to the tread, both inside and outside.
My front diff has million weight in it, and has not leaked so far. The rear diff has 200k weight in it (this is my most recent change)
I apply STX tire sauce on the rear tires before the first run of the day, and I'll add more if the car starts to oversteer.
I put the body on "loose" with the body clips high up to provide room for body bounce.
And... I think that's it.
I run on black carpet.
So.. what have I broken? Three rear wheels. One front body mount. Hopefully this helps someone.