867LikesTamiya Euro Truck Class
12-06-2017, 12:06 PM
#362
I'm all about inexpensive racing classes, but why didn't Tamiya put this body on a TT02 and call it a day? Do they have that many TT01s lying around that they need to get rid of? And friction dampers?
I really want one of these trucks, but I don't see it being a class around me so I'm leaning towards getting a TT-02R and putting the body and wheels and tires on it instead of being stuck with an outdated chassis and friction dampers.
Thoughts?
I really want one of these trucks, but I don't see it being a class around me so I'm leaning towards getting a TT-02R and putting the body and wheels and tires on it instead of being stuck with an outdated chassis and friction dampers.
Thoughts?
12-06-2017, 12:31 PM
#363
I'm all about inexpensive racing classes, but why didn't Tamiya put this body on a TT02 and call it a day? Do they have that many TT01s lying around that they need to get rid of? And friction dampers?
I really want one of these trucks, but I don't see it being a class around me so I'm leaning towards getting a TT-02R and putting the body and wheels and tires on it instead of being stuck with an outdated chassis and friction dampers.
Thoughts?
I really want one of these trucks, but I don't see it being a class around me so I'm leaning towards getting a TT-02R and putting the body and wheels and tires on it instead of being stuck with an outdated chassis and friction dampers.
Thoughts?
12-06-2017, 01:12 PM
#364
I'm all about inexpensive racing classes, but why didn't Tamiya put this body on a TT02 and call it a day? Do they have that many TT01s lying around that they need to get rid of? And friction dampers?
I really want one of these trucks, but I don't see it being a class around me so I'm leaning towards getting a TT-02R and putting the body and wheels and tires on it instead of being stuck with an outdated chassis and friction dampers.
Thoughts?
I really want one of these trucks, but I don't see it being a class around me so I'm leaning towards getting a TT-02R and putting the body and wheels and tires on it instead of being stuck with an outdated chassis and friction dampers.
Thoughts?
12-06-2017, 01:20 PM
#365
Why not just get an Awesomatix A800a and slap the body on that or a 2018 Xray T4? The point is to have a dirt cheap entry level POS that is durable enough to race and have fun. So far it has been exactly that. I wouldn't change a thing. I have other cars with better chassis to run in other classes but this is the most level playing field out there. Everyone has the same POS to deal with and we are all having a blast.
12-06-2017, 01:31 PM
#366
I believe the choice of TT01e comes from the recent release of other TT01e based cars. They must have a fresh set of molds made for them, so can afford to pop them out cheaply. It also makes the class easier to police, since nobody in their right mind is going to run a TT01-whatever in a modern touring car situation. (this stops hotrod TT02parts..)
Friction dampers are at least tens of cents cheaper each for Tamiya to produce. they require zero precision fits. This has a benefit for new builders, as a new guy who's never built shocks, and me, who can do it blindfolded, have no difference in build quality.
A major factor in the class being "useful" is that the tuning possibilities are very, very small. You can glue the tires. You can goop the diffs. You can goop the shocks. You can add weight.
Once you add CVA shocks, you run into special o-rings, different oils, different shock build lengths, different airation levels, vented versus un-vented caps, different pistons... And everything starts to get really complex from there.
That turns it into a tuning class. And one that needs much more race to race maintenance.
The practical use of this class, is it's easy to police, and easy to keep "stock". And it's a chassis that behaves, meaning it's about the racing instead of chasing the car. It's not supposed to be a "good" car. Just an easy, and consistent car.
Even on black carpet, I believe that the car meets those goals. *he says as he builds a USGT car..)
Friction dampers are at least tens of cents cheaper each for Tamiya to produce. they require zero precision fits. This has a benefit for new builders, as a new guy who's never built shocks, and me, who can do it blindfolded, have no difference in build quality.
A major factor in the class being "useful" is that the tuning possibilities are very, very small. You can glue the tires. You can goop the diffs. You can goop the shocks. You can add weight.
Once you add CVA shocks, you run into special o-rings, different oils, different shock build lengths, different airation levels, vented versus un-vented caps, different pistons... And everything starts to get really complex from there.
That turns it into a tuning class. And one that needs much more race to race maintenance.
The practical use of this class, is it's easy to police, and easy to keep "stock". And it's a chassis that behaves, meaning it's about the racing instead of chasing the car. It's not supposed to be a "good" car. Just an easy, and consistent car.
Even on black carpet, I believe that the car meets those goals. *he says as he builds a USGT car..)
12-07-2017, 02:11 AM
#367
I know it's impolite to reply to a thread after you post... but this is unrelated.
I just spent two hours with fiberglass drywall tape, e6000, and servo tape peicing my body back together. It seems pretty solid again. But I wonder how it will do when actually racing.
For my next body, I'm going to start off with "good" servo tape, instead of white foam. And place it in solid strips, instead of the little 15x5mm strips they recommend. And some preemptive body reinforcement of the lower lip would definitely be a good idea.
*sighs* These bodies are so expensive.
I just spent two hours with fiberglass drywall tape, e6000, and servo tape peicing my body back together. It seems pretty solid again. But I wonder how it will do when actually racing.
For my next body, I'm going to start off with "good" servo tape, instead of white foam. And place it in solid strips, instead of the little 15x5mm strips they recommend. And some preemptive body reinforcement of the lower lip would definitely be a good idea.
*sighs* These bodies are so expensive.
12-07-2017, 05:51 AM
#368
I believe the choice of TT01e comes from the recent release of other TT01e based cars. They must have a fresh set of molds made for them, so can afford to pop them out cheaply. It also makes the class easier to police, since nobody in their right mind is going to run a TT01-whatever in a modern touring car situation. (this stops hotrod TT02parts..)
Friction dampers are at least tens of cents cheaper each for Tamiya to produce. they require zero precision fits. This has a benefit for new builders, as a new guy who's never built shocks, and me, who can do it blindfolded, have no difference in build quality.
A major factor in the class being "useful" is that the tuning possibilities are very, very small. You can glue the tires. You can goop the diffs. You can goop the shocks. You can add weight.
Once you add CVA shocks, you run into special o-rings, different oils, different shock build lengths, different airation levels, vented versus un-vented caps, different pistons... And everything starts to get really complex from there.
That turns it into a tuning class. And one that needs much more race to race maintenance.
The practical use of this class, is it's easy to police, and easy to keep "stock". And it's a chassis that behaves, meaning it's about the racing instead of chasing the car. It's not supposed to be a "good" car. Just an easy, and consistent car.
Even on black carpet, I believe that the car meets those goals. *he says as he builds a USGT car..)
Friction dampers are at least tens of cents cheaper each for Tamiya to produce. they require zero precision fits. This has a benefit for new builders, as a new guy who's never built shocks, and me, who can do it blindfolded, have no difference in build quality.
A major factor in the class being "useful" is that the tuning possibilities are very, very small. You can glue the tires. You can goop the diffs. You can goop the shocks. You can add weight.
Once you add CVA shocks, you run into special o-rings, different oils, different shock build lengths, different airation levels, vented versus un-vented caps, different pistons... And everything starts to get really complex from there.
That turns it into a tuning class. And one that needs much more race to race maintenance.
The practical use of this class, is it's easy to police, and easy to keep "stock". And it's a chassis that behaves, meaning it's about the racing instead of chasing the car. It's not supposed to be a "good" car. Just an easy, and consistent car.
Even on black carpet, I believe that the car meets those goals. *he says as he builds a USGT car..)
I went to buy one on AMain, a site I always avoid for a few reasons, because they have a $20 off coupon today and they have a note on the MAN TGS trucks saying manufacturer does not allow coupons. This is the first I'm hearing that Tamiya doesn't allow coupons. Every other site selling Tamiya allows coupons. Hell, other Tamiyas on AMain allow coupons.
12-07-2017, 07:33 AM
#369
I've come across very few "noobs" that actually place higher priority on driving than pointless tinkering. Most people never even question their driving ability, and try to "tune out" bad driving. Those who can afford to, throw money at every kit out there, but the result is always the same. Even a tub ta05 can hang with trf kits when driven properly, but nobody wants to hear that. LOL
12-07-2017, 07:35 AM
#370
I know it's impolite to reply to a thread after you post... but this is unrelated.
I just spent two hours with fiberglass drywall tape, e6000, and servo tape peicing my body back together. It seems pretty solid again. But I wonder how it will do when actually racing.
For my next body, I'm going to start off with "good" servo tape, instead of white foam. And place it in solid strips, instead of the little 15x5mm strips they recommend. And some preemptive body reinforcement of the lower lip would definitely be a good idea.
*sighs* These bodies are so expensive.
I just spent two hours with fiberglass drywall tape, e6000, and servo tape peicing my body back together. It seems pretty solid again. But I wonder how it will do when actually racing.
For my next body, I'm going to start off with "good" servo tape, instead of white foam. And place it in solid strips, instead of the little 15x5mm strips they recommend. And some preemptive body reinforcement of the lower lip would definitely be a good idea.
*sighs* These bodies are so expensive.
12-07-2017, 07:51 AM
#371
I've come across very few "noobs" that actually place higher priority on driving than pointless tinkering. Most people never even question their driving ability, and try to "tune out" bad driving. Those who can afford to, throw money at every kit out there, but the result is always the same. Even a tub ta05 can hang with trf kits when driven properly, but nobody wants to hear that. LOL
It should be pinned to the top of this website....
MC
12-07-2017, 09:11 AM
#372
I've come across very few "noobs" that actually place higher priority on driving than pointless tinkering. Most people never even question their driving ability, and try to "tune out" bad driving. Those who can afford to, throw money at every kit out there, but the result is always the same. Even a tub ta05 can hang with trf kits when driven properly, but nobody wants to hear that. LOL
A few weeks ago, a local "hot driver" took my TT01e out for a drive, and told me my servo sucked. I'd been blaming my driving.
12-07-2017, 10:34 AM
#373
I have mine shoegoo'd together. After seeing the tape fail on a lot before I built mine, I took the steps to prevent that from happening. I cut a 4x4 wood block the width of the truck body and put it in there then glued and clamped it together while it dried. So far, it has been rock solid and no issues at all.
12-07-2017, 10:57 AM
#374
