How is that not dual rate? Dual rate just limits travel in both directions equally.

Dual rates have been a thing I've used on airplanes for years. They're used for switching between control throws to match different airspeeds, or sometimes, control regimes. Typically this ties "all the functions" on a channel together. So switching from high to low rate or rate 0-1-2 as is the case on my DX18 and 9308 changes both travel, and exponential. On more advanced radios, you can include switching in, and out mixes with other channels and some other really neat stuff.

Travel adjustment on radios with dual rate is "something separate". And is also important. End point adjustment doesn't change with the rate switches. And at least on the radios I've looked at, the adjustment we're looking for is called Travel, rather than Dual Rate.

Back to the subject of tuning Euro Trucks:

I considered adding dual rate setup to my Euro Trucks setup, to provide tight steering for when I end up pointing the wrong way on the track. With the steering dialed back to 70% doing a u-turn is questionable at best.

I don't know about air radios, but surface radios (most of my experience is with Sanwa and Futaba) tend to refer to EPA as the left/right independent travel adjustments, and dual rate as the shared travel adjustments.

Thanks, hopefully the 1251 works ok!

That's popular in oval racing. Most guys set up one of the programmable switches as a momentary select for a very tight turning circle to get out of trouble after a crash. The normal turning circle used for racing might be 20 feet or more, so punching in a momentary value of 3 feet comes in pretty handy.

I went the opposite direction with the shock than most people have and it works really well. My truck has very little bounce. I cleaned up the dampers with some sandpaper and put hudy graphite grease on them. Instead of trying to slow them down, which I think causes the bounce, I let the dampers do what they do and soak up the bumps. It's quick and easy to try if you haven't already. I think most of the speed issues people have are with their driving rather than their setups. I am also running 1 million in the front diff and lucas oil red and tacky in the rear. Front tires are glued middle of the tire to the tread. Rears get sauced, fronts do not. Truck works really good on black carpet and asphalt without the tires glued.

TCS, says you can't glue the actual tread. :-/ So if you showed up to a Tamiya race (Or, I think, our races... not that i'm the rules enforcer here) you'd be called out on that. I think USGT/USVTA has the same sort of rule, so nobody at the track tried it.

I'm still out on weather gooping the shocks "matters". Tamiya sells a few weights of grease to put in their shocks to give them some damping, so they think its useful in some fashion. If I buy a second kit, I'll do some a-b testing on that. Are they mini length shocks? I .. might.. have spare shocks around.

On asphalt, I was very happy with un-treated tires. I have a second set of tires and wheels for street use. :-) The Black CRC Carpet made things really kinda troubling.

On asphalt, I didn’t do anything to the tires except glue them to the rims. On the rug, it’s a different story.

I remember a few older radios had a button to override the dual rate or epa adjustments for that reason. I always wondered why they quit doing that.

Has any body complained about running front rims on the rear? We have had a few broken rear rims but not fronts. Offset seems the same.

How... are you breaking rims?

We had a great time running our trucks at the Big Chill this past weekend. Here is a video of one of the qualifiers:

https://www.facebook.com/OvergearedR...9505430084031/

This past Sunday one of the adult volunteers broke the center out one of the rear wheels. His truck is about 10 months old and his been run indoor and out door. I am not sure what the cause was. It may be just wear and tear of racing. Possibly, being slammed into the pipes or wall takes a toll.

Hi Guys,
I don't want to beat this "box stock" thing to death, but I haven't heard any "official" clarification on a few things: 1) Is adding weight OK? 2) Is gluing sidewalls OK?
I understand that lubes, diff and shock, are open. What tech can't see, can't really be teched. All racers worthy of the term try to get their rides handling the best they can, but within the rules, and I don't want to be a cheater.

And that's why TITC committee has decided to let it all loose but motors are to be returned, shuffled and handed out for every heat. Check out the attachment

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...52l17d6643.jpg

Too bad. I hope the rest of the country doesn't go that way. This is exactly what killed the stock Slash class that was so popular.