cplus

iTrader: (11)

brake cleaner you need to be cautious of. Some brake cleaner is chlorine based and will eat chrome/steel surfaces. If the brake cleaner is naptha based, you’re dandy.

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

As cplus said above, some caustic cleaners will ruin the surfaces of the balls and races in the bearing.

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advises, Ill give my motor a good clean and see if that helps. If not, I just bought a brand new motor for like $10 bucks at my LHS. If cleaning it doesnt help ill just toss in a new motor and hope for the best.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

You might want to look into the water dip break in procedure (or other methods) for the new motor - it can make a difference.

rc18/xxxt racer

iTrader: (18)

The euro truck died off at my local track so I’m now using the chassis for other reasons. Does anyone know if the factory tble-02 esc allows for a physical blinky mode while running a brushless motor?

Silverbullet555

iTrader: (14)

They seem to ebb and flow as they go through the wear cycle. Mine was broken in via the water method. It was slower than others to start. The fastest truck on day 1 was slower on day 2. My truck is faster now than many of the others. A lot of that has to do with driving. How smoothly and quickly can you get back in the throttle. These things bounce all over and bouncing through a corner is really slow. I'm no expert. Generally a top 3 racer in eurotruck locally with some fairly good local talent.

tuxkilla

I have been out of the game since the late 90's / early 2000's and recently went to Apex Raceway and there is a flourishing euro truck class locally (Nashville TN area). Of course it appears that everyone is on top of their driving game and has won a regional/national ROAR championship , but for the price of a euro truck, a used radio and some cheap LiPos, I figured it will still be fun thrashing an RC car again. Having the ability to easily get back into the hobby is amazing, as it allows me to drive again while I see if I really want to get back into 1/12 scale. Once I get more than 10 posts on here, I will throw a few pics up.

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Ive heard about this. Guys at my local track also said using eye drops for break in as well. Will give that a shot later.

Pretty much the same thing happened to me friend, He said he "over broken in" his motor so he was fast in the heats and qualifying, but once he got into the mains his motor was too worn to be competitive and lost out.

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

cool cya at the track

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Here are a couple pics of the stock Team Hahn paint scheme with some racing scuffs. I probably should cover the trailer hitch with some flat clear paint some day...or not.

Silverbullet555

iTrader: (14)

Latest one for my oldest kid. He came out swinging last night with a P2 in qualifying and a tight battle in the main.






Kiddo added a few more decals last night and a few scuffs.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

I was looking for a red case lipo and came across Corally C-49440, which is a 4500 mah 50C "round" lipo that should fit into a stock TT-01E/Euro Truck chassis. Anyone have any experience using Corally batteries or know of a reputable place to buy them online in the US?

chjosi

iTrader: (23)

A LHS that uses HRP as a distributor. They only have 1 in stock though...

Djohnalyn

iTrader: (1)

Not sure about the name of the part, but how is everyone keeping the pitch-fork shaped spring retainers in place on their shocks?

angrymelon

iTrader: (1)

I've never had one come out, nor have I ever disassembled the shocks after I built them years ago. Are you having a problem keeping them in place?