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Tamiya Euro Truck Class

Old 10-03-2022, 03:01 PM
  #1576  
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Originally Posted by chuck in indy
Iím not against the high end stuff but with a busy schedule itís nice to have a class where you can show up every now and then and not have to worry about technology passing you by as fast.
i like to run at least two classes, sometimes 3, for the stick time. at first i ran two touring car classes and 1/12/F1/WGTR/etc.. then i started running spec classes like euro truck as my second/third classes and it made my race days so much more enjoyable. there's nothing to do on the cars between heats but charge the battery and i can focus on developing my one open class car.

for indoor this year, i'm going to run my WGTR X10 and Euro Truck. the Euro Truck just works and is stupidly fun to drive and i can work on and develop the X10 throughout my racedays.
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Old 10-03-2022, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by chuck in indy
Thanks to IndyRCRacer for getting me back to the track, this class puts the focus back on the driver, not setup, high end chassis, etc. Iím not against the high end stuff but with a busy schedule itís nice to have a class where you can show up every now and then and not have to worry about technology passing you by as fast.

Iíve ran my Tamiya Euro truck for 5 weeks and everything looks good wear and tear wise. I would say I will probably be able to go another 10 weeks before having to change front tires and maybe the motor. I have about 25 - 4 to 8 minutes runs in the 5 weeks I have raced.

After being away for nearly a year, the biggest tip in this class that helped me was that you have to coat the front tire sidewalls with CA glue. We run on black carpet with high grip and itís the best way to prevent the truck from traction rolling. Outside of that, keep up with normal maintenance, keep it clean, stay off the barriers, other trucks on the track and youíve got yourself a recipe for fun and maybe an occasional podium or win.


5th week after about 25 - 4 to 8 minute runsÖ
Same here. This has been some of the most fun racing I've had with these trucks.
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Old 10-22-2022, 11:07 AM
  #1578  
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Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson
Good to know. Thank you. I had no idea Tamiya started using these and that they are legal in the class.
I have a HW1060 that I bought years ago. I will like to put it in my ET, which will give me Lipo cutoff.

What about the stock plugs? Guess I will cut them off the TVLE-02 and put them on the 1069?
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Old 10-23-2022, 11:54 AM
  #1579  
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Battery mounting question.

I bought a rounded tube-style lipo so it would fit in the battery tub, but the battery strap doesn't snug down far enough to allow me to put the bodyclips in the posts. Apart from grinding down the little triangle plastic pieces in the bottom of the battery tub, which I'd prefer not to do, or strap it in with tape, any other solutions out there?
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Old 10-23-2022, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan the Man
Battery mounting question.

I bought a rounded tube-style lipo so it would fit in the battery tub, but the battery strap doesn't snug down far enough to allow me to put the bodyclips in the posts. Apart from grinding down the little triangle plastic pieces in the bottom of the battery tub, which I'd prefer not to do, or strap it in with tape, any other solutions out there?
I'm not in front of my Euro truck, but if memory serves, I slightly losened the screws for the posts to give a pinch more room.
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Old 10-23-2022, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by angrymelon
I'm not in front of my Euro truck, but if memory serves, I slightly losened the screws for the posts to give a pinch more room.
Thanks AM, that worked a treat.
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Old 10-28-2022, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan the Man
Battery mounting question.

I bought a rounded tube-style lipo so it would fit in the battery tub, but the battery strap doesn't snug down far enough to allow me to put the bodyclips in the posts. Apart from grinding down the little triangle plastic pieces in the bottom of the battery tub, which I'd prefer not to do, or strap it in with tape, any other solutions out there?
On my TT01 TC I placed a 2mm spacer inside the chassis tube to raise the battery post. Might need longer screws but I think it was OK.
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Old 11-05-2022, 12:30 PM
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My Fat Fox truck seems to want to roll onto 2 wheels during aggressive cornering no matter what I've tried. It seems to be worse using any diff fluid vs anti-wear grease in the front. Since I have several trucks that I can race, I've swapped different tires with different amount of the side wheel glued. Maybe I need to use more glue on the sidewall. Otherwise not sure if I'm missing something obvious.

Since I race at a track with tight/slow corners I don't really want to take too much steering away.
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Old 11-05-2022, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer
My Fat Fox truck seems to want to roll onto 2 wheels during aggressive cornering no matter what I've tried. It seems to be worse using any diff fluid vs anti-wear grease in the front. Since I have several trucks that I can race, I've swapped different tires with different amount of the side wheel glued. Maybe I need to use more glue on the sidewall. Otherwise not sure if I'm missing something obvious.

Since I race at a track with tight/slow corners I don't really want to take too much steering away.
I never glued the sidewalls of my MAN truck tires, instead I glued the first block of tread on the outside edge. This worked a treat and I never had roll-over issues. You can see the shiny outside edge in my picture below. I applied thin CA to a cotton swab first and then applied to the tire before it kicked off. Glue on the front tires ONLY.

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Last edited by SteveM; 11-07-2022 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 11-07-2022, 10:40 AM
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Yup, I've glued the outside treads on the tires. I've also tried glue tread & glued sidewall. The gluing helps, but on this particular vehicle with the Fat Fox body it gets on 2 wheels too easily. It never traction rolls/tips over. But what it does is lift enough to cause the car to diff out or lose steering. Most likely it is my driving style of late corner entry/carrying too much speed. Overall it just feels like the car has too much weight transfer making it unpredictable.

I am just wondering if I'm over-looking something obvious or something specific with this particular body.
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Old 11-07-2022, 10:58 AM
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I ran the original MAN truck body and cannot give any advice on the Fat Fox body.

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Old 11-07-2022, 12:07 PM
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I should clarify that I'm only gluing the front tires. Does anyone glue anything on the outside of the rear tires?
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Old 11-13-2022, 09:06 AM
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This is a new class locally. I prefer the look of the fat fox body, but looking at some of the videos, it seems the cab forward bodies are more popular.

So, if running these on carpet in purely stock form, is there an advantage or disadvantage to specific bodies?

Getting ready to order and I'll put function over form!
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Old 11-13-2022, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Silverbullet555
This is a new class locally. I prefer the look of the fat fox body, but looking at some of the videos, it seems the cab forward bodies are more popular.

So, if running these on carpet in purely stock form, is there an advantage or disadvantage to specific bodies?

Getting ready to order and I'll put function over form!
We run on black CRC carpet. Small track with tight turns. The Fat Fox is the way to go. Lower COG and the weight is more central. The cab forward Mercedes and Hahn have more steering but on the carpet the Fat Fox steers well and is just plain old faster as the body is also lighter.
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Old 11-13-2022, 11:52 AM
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I ran the cab forward body in club races and was the A-main winner in every race I ran. Here's a video of the A-main from November 2019. Mine is the white/yellow truck and I'm the old guy in the camo ball cap and black vest.

https://youtu.be/uM2ThSUVw3o
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