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Old 01-13-2006, 10:31 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by John Stranahan
Engtat- I thought I would bump this up in case you haven't had a look yet.
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Old 01-13-2006, 10:34 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by tex1
For battery bars that are costly, come with inconsistant plating, are heavy and stick out of the side of the pack, there is an alternative.

I was working with some new guys driving RC cars. Chassis flex from crashing was causing bar seperation and bending the packs alignment. I took a long look at it and did some testing.

With the new batts (3700 & 3800+++) they have a tough time fitting in buggys and other vehicles.

So I decided to use braided wire. Prep the cells by sanding the surface to get a good light tin. Use heat sink forceps to tin the ends of the braid wire. Very little is needed.
Assemble the packs using Shoe Goo in a straight line between each cell. Use a Deans batt jig to hold the cells together tight. Set my pretinned and cut braids on the cells and hold them with a knife blade. Hit with the iron and it takes very quick because the tinning on the braid means the solder goes all the way through.

I measured the values in V drop and resistance and it is as good as any other bar connection.

The packs fit in the buggy or JRSX which I drive.
Resistance is irrelevant. Can't see a difference.
Weight has been minimized as much as possible. Big benifit!
The packs can and will flex without bending or breaking. Tweak free cars??
It is substancially cheaper and easier to handle than bars.

Hope this helps,
Tex Have any pictures???
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Old 01-14-2006, 09:46 AM   #78
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Tex and Jon- Niftech has a pretty cool little tool for what I was describing. If you are trying to tin bare wires where the wire showing is really short this is the trick...

Also, I/m not sure if it's the same as the Team Much More silver solder, but www.keisub.com sells the Kester silver solder. I'm not at work so I can't remember if it's 2 or 4 %, but it's supposed to be the best commercially available.

I would also like to add that when you are soldering battery bars as I described on the first page, it's a good idea not to rely on the Dean's clamp to hold the bar to the cell. The truth is that the clamp is just good for holding the bar still. I doesn't put NEAR enough pressure on the bar to hold it flat to the cell. I use my needle nose pliers by holding them in the same hand as my solder. Then, after feeding the solder onto the bar/cell, I just turn my hand and use the pliers to push down fairly hard on the center of the end of the bar to hold it flat and tight against the cell until the solder cools.
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Old 01-14-2006, 12:08 PM   #79
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I'll work on pictures for the braid and the assy process.

Nice deal on the Niftech heat sink holder.

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Old 01-14-2006, 12:42 PM   #80
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