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XRAY X12 2017 1/12 Pan Car

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Old 03-17-2017, 02:50 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: XRAY X12 2017 1/12 Pan Car
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Welcome to the XRAY X12'17 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. Many of us run the X12'17 on high bite carpet and with most US tracks going to the new black CRC carpet, most setups from here out will be developed for those high bite conditions.

Tips & Tricks:
Some racers notice slop developed in the front end over time. One method to reduce/remove this, as pointed out by some of our friends in Europe is to score the inside of the plastic front pivot ball (where the kingpin goes through) with a sharp xacto blade. Usually 4 scores at 12, 3, 6 and 9 will do. Alternative options can be found listed below.

As with any 1/12 pan car, a smooth operating suspension is critical to performance. It is recommended to polish your kingpins & hinge pins using a dremel or a drill and some sort of polish (IE Gravity polish or Mothers Aluminum polish will work). If you find that your suspension has a bind, you may look at using a reamer or drillbit to make sure the holes are clear of any flashing or debris. The only place this may happen is at the upper hingepin, which is 2mm dia.

For stock racing we usually find ourselves looking for a little more steering. One trick that some of the stock drivers have done that seems to help is lowering the graphite plate that the servo & shock mount to. To do this, you will need the 17mm standoffs from VBC and the servo mounts from the 2015 or earlier X12. Be careful that the servo mounts do not sit crooked on the plate when attaching it; a 0.2-0.5mm shim will help ensure it sits perfect on the graphite plate. Part numbers can be found below.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA371220 X12 Foam Bumper
XRA372012 Composite Front Upper Arm Mount Right Graphite

XRA372022 Composite Front Upper Arm Mount Left Graphite

XRA372113 Composite Suspension Arm Front Lower Right Graphite

XRA372123 Composite Suspension Arm Front Lower Left Graphite
XRA372177
Spring 4.75 Coils 3.6x6x0.45mm, C=2.0 - Silver (Soft) (2)
XRA372178
Spring 4.05 Coils 3.6x6x0.45mm, C=2.5 - Black (Soft) (2)
XRA373584 Side Spring C=0.6 - Silver (2)
XRA373586 Side Spring C=1.2 - Black (2)
XRA375010 Graphite Rear Axle Shaft - highly recommended
XRA378094 Shock Spring C=2.1 Black

Lowered Graphite Plate:
B-02-VBC5005
XRA376255-O Alu Servo Mount - Orange (2)

Front end options:
ASC4403 Kingpins, 1:12 Scale
ASC4622 Upper Arm Eyelets

ASC4626 Upper Arm Mounts/Steering Blocks
ASC4627 Front Axles
ASC8417 Pivot Balls

Aluminum Chassis:
Max.FX Aluminum Chassis
McFactory Motorsports
Reflex/RSD

Recent Setups:
Alexander Hagberg - Snowbird Nationals - Mod - High Bite
Craig Xavier - Snowbird Nationals - 17.5 - High Bite
Robbie Dodge - Snowbird Nationals - 17.5 - High Bite
Eric Anderson - ROAR Carpet Nationals - 13.5 High Bite

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Old 10-30-2016, 03:26 AM
  #106  
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Regarding the front brace, most of the team doesn't use it. I know Dan Hamann does sometimes. Not sure what kind of modifications, if any he has done to make that work. I would assume a thinner shim in the center would do it but idk.
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Old 10-31-2016, 05:16 PM
  #107  
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Ok, I think I've removed all the front end play, with the least amount of parts needed. Made a few changes.

-Remove the upper arms.

-Make a ball popper to pop out the upper balls cleanly. (I used a long OS M2.5 cap head screw, washer, 1/8th nitro collet, washer, M2.5 nut) You tighten the screw and it drives the ball out into the collet.

-drag a #11 exacto blade inside the eyelet making a cut line at 0,90,180, and 270 degrees. The cut lines will raise up the plastic and reduce play. Be careful, Xray used hard plastic here to reduce friction I think. It'll take some effort to drag a line, don't cut yourself.

-pop the ball back in with the popper, not pliers.

-with the upper arm hinge pin and caster shims removed, drag a short line inside the arm with the knife 4 times on each end to reduce arm play on the hinge pin, similar to the technique we used for the eyelet. Be careful not to do too much, this plastic is softer and easier to etch. You should be able to feel the hinge pin drag in the arm, but the arm will still move with very, very, little effort. Gravity might not be enough to move the arm now, without the weight of the tire/kingpin/etc.

-When you put the arm and hinge pin back into the steering block, use two AE kingpin shims on each hingepin to reduce play, and throw away the thinnest caster shim. I put the metal washers all the way outside, with the caster shims on the inside. Less friction that way.

After doing this, I have almost no play, but still an extremely free front end. There is still a tick of back and forth thanks to the arm, but no more than any other 1/12th scale car, with a smooth and free front end. About 30 min of effort.
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:34 PM
  #108  
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So much nicer with a proper speedo....
Attached Thumbnails XRAY X12 2017 1/12 Pan Car-20161013_200423.jpg   XRAY X12 2017 1/12 Pan Car-20161028_193022.jpg  
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:18 AM
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4.5T?

Pfft. Soft. Where is the 3.5
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
Ok, I think I've removed all the front end play, with the least amount of parts needed. Made a few changes.

-Make a ball popper to pop out the upper balls cleanly. (I used a long OS M2.5 cap head screw, washer, 1/8th nitro collet, washer, M2.5 nut) You tighten the screw and it drives the ball out into the collet.
CRC actually makes the tool you are looking for. It's incredibly helpful when working on front ends from any brand. Check it out here: https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules....prodID=7718876

I don't think Xray/Hudy makes such a tool, if they do I am sorry for the hyjack and I will edit my post.
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:59 AM
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I have the CRC popper. It does not work with the Xray car. It's SAE threads are too thick, and it won't fit through the balls.

Looking again, there's still play in the upper pivotball to eyelet. I might try the AE eyelet and Xray ball, or the Xray plastic ball and Xray eyelet, or Xray plastic ball and AE eyelet, next.
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:22 AM
  #112  
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I've used the CRC popper on all of my Xray front ends without any issues.

Hudy does not have a tool for this. Maybe something they could look into.
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
I have the CRC popper. It does not work with the Xray car. It's SAE threads are too thick, and it won't fit through the balls.

Looking again, there's still play in the upper pivotball to eyelet. I might try the AE eyelet and Xray ball, or the Xray plastic ball and Xray eyelet, or Xray plastic ball and AE eyelet, next.
I had a old CRC popper that worked for Xray that I got a long time ago. But, a friend of mine recently bought one after using mine and his was as you said, to thick in the thread area. I don't know if they had 2 sizes or changed the thread for some reason, mine worked and the new one did not.
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:07 PM
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What is everyone's thoughts on what lower arms to run. Either kit hard or graphite option. Not really seeing much info on either one.
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Old 11-02-2016, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chad508 View Post
What is everyone's thoughts on what lower arms to run. Either kit hard or graphite option. Not really seeing much info on either one.
When I ran the car we would run the graphite lower arms to reduce the overall weight of the car.
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Old 11-03-2016, 02:50 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
When I ran the car we would run the graphite lower arms to reduce the overall weight of the car.
What is the difference in the weight of the arms?
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Old 11-03-2016, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
When I ran the car we would run the graphite lower arms to reduce the overall weight of the car.
Are the graphite parts harder or softer than the stock hard parts? Do they have any less slop or produce any more slop that the hard parts over time?
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:57 AM
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When setting the rear width to 172mm do any shims go on the diff side?
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jmoneym View Post
When setting the rear width to 172mm do any shims go on the diff side?
Ultimately depends on the offset of the wheel. But normally, yes
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by miller tyme View Post
Ultimately depends on the offset of the wheel. But normally, yes
I know with Ulti's, to get close to 172mm, you'll need to add around 2mm extra of shims each side. So 2mm diff side, 8mm other.
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