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Old 02-11-2006, 03:13 PM   #106
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Although you shouldn't actuly pick up interference from it.... interference got a mind of it's own.

The G11 doesn't need a power cap or diode as they are built in, but you can happily try the diode if that appeases the glitch, the power cap won't.

Sometimes it is wire routing as well, I have heard of people running their motor wires twisted... whether that was an asthetic thing or something to it... but if you continue to get glitching, come over to the Tekin support forum at www.teamtekin.com and you may get a little more help. I know the designer is a regular on there and is very helpfull indeed.
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:54 PM   #107
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I think I am gonna stand the speedo up on end with the fets towards the motor and try to keep the esc extra wire close to the speedo. Then wrap the receiver in foil for something to try. Thanks!
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Old 02-15-2006, 05:42 PM   #108
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the alluminum foil worked for me.
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Old 02-15-2006, 06:39 PM   #109
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Jim, it was nice meeting you at the birds. Listening to you and Matt Lee talk showed me that your really interested in making RC better and easier for everyone. Its nice that your willing to work with other companies to make products better.
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Old 02-15-2006, 08:16 PM   #110
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nice to meet "TEKIN" at the birds!!! my girl and i were the ones you were chatting with inside the hotel bar for a while... great to see you so ambitious in your plans!! see ya again soon!!!

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Old 02-15-2006, 10:28 PM   #111
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Thanks David and Arvin.. We met a lot of great people this weekend and we are really looking forward to what lies ahead. We are truly engineers that love the hunt.

On the noise issues I think Da_cookie_monst said it extremely well. It can be an elusive beast and is always blamed on the speedo. With todays components speedos do not really generate much noise and are not very suseptable to noise… motors and tremendous current surges thousands of times per seconds make noise and chassis make sure it is everywhere….

Perhaps this a good time for quick RC101 in electronics..

Speedos do not glitch..period.. that does not mean we are not at fault when there are issues, but we are typically the end result more than the cause. Speedos react to a fairly basic signal provided by the receiver. We get a pulse every 10ms to 20ms (depending on the radio) that is 1ms to 2 ms long. Standard for the industry is 1.5ms is neutral, 1.0ms is full brake and 2.0ms is full throttle. Radios vary and may provide from .9ms to 2.2ms and have adjustable endpoints… so we calibrate to the radio so we know exactly what to expect. This is happening pretty fast and if we get some noise in there we might think you want brake for a split second when you actually are holding throttle on. If we start ignoring stray pulses or averaging too much….the throttle response is slowed and you can feel it.

We drive the motors with a pulse width modulation. That means we control speed by adjusting the duty cycle or on time. At 4Kz half throttle would be half on time and half off time 4000 times per second. During the on time you are battery to motor and we are nothing but a piece of wire. At full on there is no switching and you might as well solder the battery direct to the motor.

The noise is not messing with us… it is telling us what to do and we are doing it. The glitching is a couple hundred pulses of a throttle position you did not ask for and then back to where you where. The same is true for steering… same pulse and same reaction to noise signals.

So reducing noise generation is first.. clean comms and good brushes, a motor diode can help if our flyback circuit is faulty, a battery cap reduces voltage spikes (not really a power storage like most think, discharges and charges thousands of times per second and softens the switching), good solder connections and connectors on power wires and batteries. Next isolate the noise by making sure nothing is actually touching the chassis and wire routing… then pay extra good attention to radio plugs at the receiver, pin condition and the wires. Ultimately the noise comes down that white wire to us and if you hooked an oscilloscope to it you would see it. In the end some cars are just difficult to isolate and we have had a few… but we have never had to use foil in any of our test cars ever. Foil is a shield and is not reducing the generation of the noise. It may work but is not attacking the root cause… but some times you gotta do what ever works till you can figure it out.

If that same setup works with a competitors unit I still doubt we are the cause we are just exposing the noise being generated somewhere. Then again the speedo might be screwed up and if all else fails we will want to see it.

Tekin Prez

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Old 02-15-2006, 10:44 PM   #112
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Great story (explanation)....I wondered when something would be said about the use of foil.
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Old 02-16-2006, 04:17 AM   #113
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The foil is old skool and just helps out to try and sheild the noise coming from the Carbon Fibre chassis. But Jim is correct, the noise can come from lots of different places, but the biggest, is your transmitter, and the signal it sends. Sometimes you can have a definate problem, I know I occaisionaly have problems with the older analogue transponder loop.
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Old 02-16-2006, 11:20 AM   #114
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I know it is old school and while this was done back in the mid eighties it still boiled down to being a problem with motor and RX issues. Did the foil help back then, yes it did, but it wasn't a 100% solution.
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Old 02-16-2006, 11:37 AM   #115
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Yes, it was a work-around for annoying glitching/spikes off other equipment.
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Old 02-19-2006, 03:41 PM   #116
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I need a really good setup for the G11, for stock racing with foams on carpet.

Something very aggressive.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 02-19-2006, 03:59 PM   #117
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From the stock settings on the G11, drop the drive frequency one or two steps (the more you drop it, the more agressive it will get), you could also increase the lim to, but I wouldn't recommend putting it to max as you will just burn the comm up.
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Old 02-19-2006, 04:59 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst
From the stock settings on the G11, drop the drive frequency one or two steps (the more you drop it, the more agressive it will get), you could also increase the lim to, but I wouldn't recommend putting it to max as you will just burn the comm up.
When you say "drop" do you mean go toward (0) or toward (100)?
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Old 02-19-2006, 05:08 PM   #119
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i run the drive freq all the way down and the limit all the way up, this will give u the most aggresion. for stock you shouldnt have to worry about comm burn up. hope this helps
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Old 02-19-2006, 05:18 PM   #120
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Thanks for you help!
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