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Old 12-29-2005, 10:42 PM   #1
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Default 68 Pitch vs 48 pitch

hey guys i have a bd and i wondering whcih is better to run 68 pitch or 48 pitch and what are the pros and cons of each pitch?
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Old 12-29-2005, 10:46 PM   #2
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bump sorry guys i meant 64 pitch
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Old 12-29-2005, 10:46 PM   #3
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Well its 64 pitch, not 68.

Basically:

64 = quieter, more ratios possible
48 = more durable
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Old 12-30-2005, 03:57 AM   #4
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hey if you are a good driver who undestands to setup you car vey good an adjust things down to the very last screw then go with the 64 pitch. but for all of us who is normal humans 48 is better and more easy to adjust
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Old 12-30-2005, 05:38 AM   #5
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also to add to this thread what is the difference between the tamiya coarse pitch 0.4 and 48 pitch
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Old 12-30-2005, 06:49 AM   #6
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For all on-road racing, I have always used 64 pitch. I've never experienced any gear failures that weren't caused by my own poor maintenance or an on-track incident.

When my son started racing touring car at age 6, I had him use 48 pitch gears. With his short attention span and rookie skills, I figured he would have fewer problems setting proper gear mesh. I already had 48 pitch pinions from my off-road days, so it wasn't a new expense.

Now my son is 10, and we are running 12th scale. He is running 64 pitch just like me and has not had a gear failure yet. And belive me, he has tested them!

In my opinion, as long as you spend the extra few seconds setting proper gear mesh, 64 pitch can be just as durable. If you are planning on sticking with on-road, put your investment into 64 pitch and just be careful with your mesh.
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:14 AM   #7
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if your new run 48 pitch UNLESS a fast experiences guy at the local track can show you how to gear mesh 64 pitch since its a touch pickier

64 pitch is the way to go on carpet IMO
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:47 AM   #8
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short cut way to setting gear mesh.... If you want to run a 25 tooth pinion put a 26 on there and smash it tight against the spur, tighten motor so it won't move, remove 26 tooth and install 25.
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Old 12-30-2005, 11:11 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
short cut way to setting gear mesh.... If you want to run a 25 tooth pinion put a 26 on there and smash it tight against the spur, tighten motor so it won't move, remove 26 tooth and install 25.

Wow, that's a great tip. You should submit that to a magazine.
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Old 12-30-2005, 11:28 AM   #10
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what you can also do is get a tissue paper like the one that you blow your nose on

what you do with that is you put it between the pinion and spur... close in the two gears with the tissue between it and then there your mesh

once you tightened every thing and the tissue is still ther all you got to do is rotate the gear till the tissue is out!

TADA

hope it works for you guys
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Old 12-30-2005, 11:56 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
short cut way to setting gear mesh.... If you want to run a 25 tooth pinion put a 26 on there and smash it tight against the spur, tighten motor so it won't move, remove 26 tooth and install 25.
That is interesting....I will have to try that, does that work on 48P only or it works on ANY pitch gear..?

Back from the old time (when I was running the Delta 12th scale)...ppl use 64P over 32P is because 64P generate more punch at the low-end, I've been told that way, never really know that is true or not.....I personally is slow enough that I cannot tell much different.
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Old 12-30-2005, 11:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony390
what you can also do is get a tissue paper like the one that you blow your nose on

what you do with that is you put it between the pinion and spur... close in the two gears with the tissue between it and then there your mesh

once you tightened every thing and the tissue is still ther all you got to do is rotate the gear till the tissue is out!

TADA

hope it works for you guys
I heard the similar thing, but using $1 bill (cause everyone has it (I hope) and they are very much standard thickness)......then ppl say $2, $5, $10, $20, $50 or $100 bill.........that always made me laugh....
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Old 12-30-2005, 12:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
I heard the similar thing, but using $1 bill (cause everyone has it (I hope) and they are very much standard thickness)......then ppl say $2, $5, $10, $20, $50 or $100 bill.........that always made me laugh....
if thats the case then just a piece of scratch paper is good enough but i think its just a bit to thick for the 64 pitch
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Old 12-30-2005, 12:59 PM   #14
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Default It's a strength thing...

The difference between 64 and 48 pitch is tooth strength. 48 has a greater tooth root thickness, and so is stronger that 64. However, since the width of the gears we use is much more than required by the forces being transmitted by the motor to the transmission, we can get away with either for almost any on-road car.

Off-Road is very different, because the forces are multiplied many times by the constant jumping of the car, causing shock loads to go through the gears. Here, 48 is the best answer as it has much thicker tooth roots and resists failure under such high, intermittent loads.

As for meshing, some clearance is required, and the coarser the pitch, the more the clearance. IME, tissue paper for the 64, and printer paper for the 48. In all honesty, providing there is even a little backlash between the gears, they will work just fine. A small error in the mesh on a 64 set will have far more serious consequences than 48, so if you're not good at meshing, stick to 48.

Lastly, efficiency doesn't come into the selection. Efficiency is a function of the tooth form, where a full involute form is the one to go for, as opposed to a stub form (very rare these days). IME, Kimbrough and Robinson are the best proponents of the full involute form in moulded gears, and Robinson and RW for machined gears. HTH
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Old 01-04-2006, 01:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford_racing
also to add to this thread what is the difference between the tamiya coarse pitch 0.4 and 48 pitch
0.4 gears is just the metric version of 48P. 0.8 is the metric version of 32P.
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