touring car tuning help
#1
touring car tuning help
I am new to touring cars, all my experience is off road. I just bought 2 used tc6.1. Both cars have different setups , 1 for carpet and 1 for asphalt (how they both already were). Our track is carpet and both cars have so much front grip/ steering that the car is hard to control, basically drifting the rear with minimal steering input. Question is what general adjustments need to be made to make it push more?? l am not really looking for a setup just setup help, like harder or softer springs,sway bars, oils. Thanks in advance
#4
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
If your coming from offroad experience; your driving style needs to change. You cannot drive an onroad car like you do a dirt car. A lot more finesse is needed in your throttle and steering. you must slow your forward speed down prior to the corner and let the car settle before turning in. Gentle steering inputs work well. once alway into or coming out of the corner start applying throttle. I would suggest before you make a bunch of setup changes to the cars; work with one of the better drivers at your local track to improve your driving style for carpet. If you do feel the need to make chassis changes. Start from the original kit setup first.
#5
Plus one to reverting to kit setup. But I would give both cars a strip down first and take out all worn parts.
That said, your problem seems to be not too much front grip but no rear grip.
Before you do anything else, make sure you use the correct tyres. This is 90% of the problem.
Next, decide on the correct rear diff oil. Yours might be too thick.
Next, make sure you have the correct camber front and rear AND correct rear toe. More rear toe will help the rear follow the front better.
Only after this can you start looking at camber gain (camber links position and length) and shock/spring/damper setup.
What you need to know as a fundamental principle is that the rear of the car rolls more than the front no matter what you do especially on corner entry (keep in mind you enter the corner off power or under braking, so the front is loaded, the rear is unloaded) which is crucial to how you're going to take the corner. If you don't allow this to happen (and use it wisely to your advantage) you will always be fighting your car. To this end all the above tuning is important, plus rear track ( a narrower rear end keeps wheels in contact with the surface at higher roll angles).
Camber links are also going to dictate your roll centres so you need to find where you want these to allow the car to roll as much as it is necessary to use all the grip you can (transfer all the weight you can) but no more. I would say this is where you should start in tuning with your camber links but this is not a directly measurable effect. You need to drive the car and see how it reacts and make small adjustments, that is why I didn't put it in the list above.
Also important here are ground clearance and droop (or downstop if you prefer to look at it that way). You need to allow more droop in the rear, again for the same reason stated above. Most tracks/rules specify these, so a good starting point is to set it at what is allowed and leave it, making other changes around this. On bumpy tracks you might want more clearance than allowed. I just decide what ground clearance I want to run so the car doesn't bottom out and adjust everything else around it.
And it is true, you can't drive a TC like a buggy, diving in the corner and drifting all the way around. You will find this is a time-costly way of going around the track.
But I suppose you knew most of this as it applies to off road as well.
That said, your problem seems to be not too much front grip but no rear grip.
Before you do anything else, make sure you use the correct tyres. This is 90% of the problem.
Next, decide on the correct rear diff oil. Yours might be too thick.
Next, make sure you have the correct camber front and rear AND correct rear toe. More rear toe will help the rear follow the front better.
Only after this can you start looking at camber gain (camber links position and length) and shock/spring/damper setup.
What you need to know as a fundamental principle is that the rear of the car rolls more than the front no matter what you do especially on corner entry (keep in mind you enter the corner off power or under braking, so the front is loaded, the rear is unloaded) which is crucial to how you're going to take the corner. If you don't allow this to happen (and use it wisely to your advantage) you will always be fighting your car. To this end all the above tuning is important, plus rear track ( a narrower rear end keeps wheels in contact with the surface at higher roll angles).
Camber links are also going to dictate your roll centres so you need to find where you want these to allow the car to roll as much as it is necessary to use all the grip you can (transfer all the weight you can) but no more. I would say this is where you should start in tuning with your camber links but this is not a directly measurable effect. You need to drive the car and see how it reacts and make small adjustments, that is why I didn't put it in the list above.
Also important here are ground clearance and droop (or downstop if you prefer to look at it that way). You need to allow more droop in the rear, again for the same reason stated above. Most tracks/rules specify these, so a good starting point is to set it at what is allowed and leave it, making other changes around this. On bumpy tracks you might want more clearance than allowed. I just decide what ground clearance I want to run so the car doesn't bottom out and adjust everything else around it.
And it is true, you can't drive a TC like a buggy, diving in the corner and drifting all the way around. You will find this is a time-costly way of going around the track.
But I suppose you knew most of this as it applies to off road as well.
#7
Tech Apprentice
Make sure the car is weight balanced and not tweaked as well.
#8
Swap tyres front to back to at least take one variable out (or replace rear and/or all with known/new good tyres).
#9
Like mentioned before, ...since these are used cars you really don't know what is off ...
Find the manuals online, take the cars apart and rebuild to factory specs replacing anything that is worn and cleaning everything.
Once you do that it will be much easier to identify issues.
----------
Having rear grip problems can be many things ...diff oil too thick, camber, tires worn, etc....
----------
Rebuild to factory specs!
Find the manuals online, take the cars apart and rebuild to factory specs replacing anything that is worn and cleaning everything.
Once you do that it will be much easier to identify issues.
----------
Having rear grip problems can be many things ...diff oil too thick, camber, tires worn, etc....
----------
Rebuild to factory specs!
#10
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Less front droop will give it more steering on power.
So you've got it backwards, those two changes won't make it push, they'll add steering and make the car harder to drive.
Laying the rear shocks down won't necessarily make it push either, depends on the rest of the setup.
Long upper arms in the rear won't make it push either ... that'll remove some camber gain and take away rear grip, making it potentially turn more.
Sorry bro you've got this all backwards. Unless I'm drunk right now.
#12
For tires, you have to use Sorex 28R's at 702 regardless of temp. 32's just don't cut it. The premount Schumachers with the 28r's and blue insert is the way to go. Nobody really runs anything else there with success for Sedan that I know of.
#15
i thought more rear droop would give more front steering....