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Old 11-13-2002, 10:11 AM   #1
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Default Suspension 101

All right, I guess you could call this the 3rd installment of the "101" posts. This has to deal with suspension. I was reading the competitionx.com website and they have a very good tuning guide that pretty much explained everything about tuning...in detail. I just have a few quetsions.

#1 - Droop - the amount of down travel a shock has.

OK, I understand that the higher you go on the droop gauge...the less travel the shock will have. They say to decrease droop for high bite tracks, such as carpet. Currently, my TC3 is set at 6 in the front and 4 in the rear. Now, when they say decrease, do that mean make the numbers higher or lower? I would think make them higher so that the shocks have less area to travel in...making the car have less body roll? Am I correct with this?

Also, does droop make the ride height lower/higher?

#2 - Ride Height - the distance measured from the bottom of the chassis to the ground. As you know, I have a TC3. I have the RTR kit which came with the composite shocks that have the pre-load clips in them (to adjust the ride height). Now, the question is, adding bigger pre-load clips will make the ride height higher....right? In that case, the smaller the pre-load clip, the lower the ride height?

Would it be better for me just go get the threaded shocks that Factory makes for my TC3?
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Old 11-13-2002, 11:02 AM   #2
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hey, well first off droop is the travel the arm has. when you set droop you disconnect the shock from the arm. when they say decrease droop they mean go higher on the numbers so the arm has less downtravel. this will limit chassis roll.

as for preload clips the more clips you install the more you will raise your ride height.

the aluminum threaded shocks are nice to have but you can still get by with the stock shocks.
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Old 11-13-2002, 11:27 AM   #3
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Keep in mind that you do not use droop to set ride height. You use your springs to do that. If you cannot get the ride height then go back to your droop and see if it is the reason why you cannot make height.
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Old 11-13-2002, 11:28 AM   #4
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spaz is right on. but just to clarify, droop typically refers to the additional downtravel the tire has from static ride height, not the overall suspension travel. sometimes if your car does not have droop limiting screws in the arm, you must limit the down travel of the arm via internal spacers under the shock piston, so it is often necessary to have your shocks mounted.

the best way i've seen it explained is the amount of uptravel your chassis has from the ride height position. hold the front or rear tires securely to the ground and pull up on the related shock tower. if you have 5mm droop, that means that end of the chassis will be able to rise 5mm over ride height and still have both tires contacting the ground. that's how i set mine. if i want to run 5mm ride height, and i want to run say...3mm droop, i will set the ride ride height first, then set the chassis 8mm off of the ground and screw in my droop screws untill each tire is barely in contact with the ground. so then when i set the full weight of the car on the ground, it should "droop" 3mm untill the springs hold the car up at 5.

was that any further help?

oh, as long as you are getting the ride height you desire using the clips, there's no reason to change to the threaded bodies. i like threads to quickly compensate for tweak that a chassis my sustain. i see a lot of guys that run the tc3 using the threaded bodies and measuring the distance from the bottom of the cap to the top of the collar to make sure everything is close. if your chassis doesn't get tweaked, or the tweak doesn't change, it's often easier to just use clips than to have to measure that gap every time you change your height...or tires.
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Old 11-13-2002, 11:33 AM   #5
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Default Droop adjusment

Spaz486;
Why would you disconnect the shocks to adjust droop? If the suspension arms have more downtravel than the shocks.
Then as soon as you reconnect the shocks, the shocks become the limiting factor.

1) Set ride height first at both ends of the car.
2) Measure droop with ride height gauge by inserting futher under the chassis until the tires just lift and noting the measurement on the gauge.
Subtract ride height from the second measurement and that is your droop at that end of the car.

2-3 mm in the front to start.

You can adjust with spacers inside (if it's WAY too much) or by changing the shock lengths (must be even right to left)

3-4 mm in the rear to start.

Then REcheck ride height again.
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Old 11-13-2002, 11:58 AM   #6
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yeah pops, i've never been one to be concise!
well done.
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Old 11-13-2002, 12:12 PM   #7
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Default Sorry didn't mean to repeat your post

seaball;
For some reason your previous post didn't show on the screen.
I wasn't trying to outdo you.

I think the real advantage of threaded shock bodies is for adjusting minor suspension tweek side to side and it's much faster than searching the that perfect spring clip thickness.

Oops; guess you said that too. sorry. Good advise.
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Old 11-13-2002, 01:30 PM   #8
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nah man, i wasn't implying that you were. i was just merely making fun of the fact that i'm not so brief in my posts. you said what i did in less than half of the time!
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Old 11-13-2002, 03:31 PM   #9
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Default Ohio

Seaball: I had a racing buddy that moved to Ohio this summer (don't know what city).
His name is John Williams, tall, thin, long straight hair. He has an inlaw that is the owner of "Nif-Tec" R/C specialty company.
R/C racing can be a small world sometimes.
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Old 11-13-2002, 04:16 PM   #10
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Default THANKS

thanks popsracer! That is exactly what I needed to know. I wasn't sure If I set the droop first, then ride height...or the other way around. I am going to be getting my P2K2 Pro motor in the next week for so...then I'll go to the track and mess around with the suspension! Thanks everyone...
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Old 11-13-2002, 04:53 PM   #11
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Default Fix that 19 turn

Why don't you try an fix that 19 turn that came with the car so you can race again sooner.
I get withdrawl symptoms if I can't race every weekend, plus more practice, more experience.

You may want to change your front droop to 3-4mm instead of 6mm. 6mm in front will cause too much front push under power.

But.... if the car feels ok to you now then just leave everything alone.
Also, once you set your ride height to racing height. I would avoid running the car in the street as the rocks and pebbles can really tear it up now that it's lower.
Some things I learned from experience.
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Old 11-13-2002, 05:21 PM   #12
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Im not gonna try to fix that motor. The tabs are broken. I dont know how it happened. As for driving in the street...I only drive it on carpet. I'll go down in the basement right now to see if i can fix it one more time. If not....she is going to sit there.
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Old 11-13-2002, 10:42 PM   #13
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yeah pops, that nifftech guy is always out on sundays repping his stuff. it cost me fifty bucks just to say hi to him. he's got some great stuff, but it's real pricey. i'll keep my ears peeled for john's name to pop up. i race with a tony williams, but no john so far. later man.
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Old 11-14-2002, 05:22 AM   #14
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Pops & seball: I found racing on carpet really effects the droop and where the shocks lie. I do disconnest the shocks to set the lower position. It really depends on where the tire size is. I start at 62mm and run to 55mm. Shock length limits at 62, but by the time I get to 55 they do not. Droop, I run 1mm Front and 1.5mm rear on my X-Ray carpet track.

unknown: Try looking for martian crisp suspension book. mpowered I have version 2 and the book is great!
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Old 11-14-2002, 07:41 PM   #15
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Default XXX Main Book

I just ordered and it only took 2 days to get to California from Canada. Great book LOTS of helpful information inside.

mPowered-Racing.com
xxx-main.com
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