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Team CRC Gen X 10 R/T

Old 01-14-2020, 11:46 AM
  #346  
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Pan cars are still more addictive than TC.

Touring cars are the WWE of carpet on road.
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Old 01-14-2020, 11:50 AM
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I'm a big fan of simple, anything 4wd doesn't meet requirement. More than twice the bearings and drivetrain parts.
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Old 01-14-2020, 12:27 PM
  #348  
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And weight. TC's are 1380 grams. More weight equals more broken parts whenever you hit a turn marshall.
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Old 01-14-2020, 10:39 PM
  #349  
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Thanks, All. Here in Seattle this class started with 2-3 cars at the beginning of the season, now a dozen.

Im coming from 1/12 stock and mod, so some of the tuning advice is a bit different. Why such medium center shock springs? In both mod and stock 1/12 we run a stiff center spring. Does the forward battery position play into this?
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Old 01-15-2020, 02:30 AM
  #350  
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Originally Posted by Gravity Dodger View Post
Hi guys, looking for set-up suggestions for my new r/t car. The track I run at runs a short track series during the Summer (80x30 apprx) and has the new CRC carpet but doubles as an off road track so astro is placed over it weekly leaving debris even though the guys diligently vacuum it and the layout is different every week so initial traction is low but by mains grip is good but not over the top.
I built my car mostly stock with 5 caster, mid front width, long wheelbase, .45F/.50S, red center spring long shock cup, 10k tubes, full forward inline battery, .5 toe out, 1 camber, and I don't know the exact amount of droop but I have maybe 1.5 override height front and rear. The car felt good in the slower technical part of the track but had a severe on power push and bad push mid to exit on the high speed sweeper. I made two changes to the car that both helped but didn't completely solve the issue, first I added camber to 1.5 and second I used a stiffer speed merchant gold center spring. During the mains car felt better with the increased traction levels but still had a ton of push. I was looking for a setup sheet for this car but I realize its so new so any suggestions or links are appreciated. I included a pic of tonights track for reference.
Thanks,
Paul
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Old 01-15-2020, 05:19 AM
  #351  
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Just a refresher guys. The front hinge pin mounting blocks do not establish caster on their own (0, 5 & 10). Those a reactive blocks, not caster blocks. They determine the rate caster is removed upon spring compression. Caster is established by locating the upper arm forward or back on the chassis with respect to the lower kingpin pivot ball. This is a very common mistake made even by veteran racers.
Note on my caster numbers. I run as much much as possible. Typically right up to the point that the car wants to over rotate on corner exit. Then I back it down until the car flows out of the corner smoothly. On my CRC car the front of the reactive blocks and clamps are actually machined away to allow for more caster than available out of the box.
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Old 01-16-2020, 12:56 PM
  #352  
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Originally Posted by old_dude View Post
Just a refresher guys. The front hinge pin mounting blocks do not establish caster on their own (0, 5 & 10). Those a reactive blocks, not caster blocks. They determine the rate caster is removed upon spring compression. Caster is established by locating the upper arm forward or back on the chassis with respect to the lower kingpin pivot ball. This is a very common mistake made even by veteran racers.
Note on my caster numbers. I run as much much as possible. Typically right up to the point that the car wants to over rotate on corner exit. Then I back it down until the car flows out of the corner smoothly. On my CRC car the front of the reactive blocks and clamps are actually machined away to allow for more caster than available out of the box.
How much static caster as measured at the king pins? How are you modifying the caster mount/ lower arm to increase caster?.

Last edited by liljohn1064; 01-16-2020 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 01-16-2020, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
How much static caster as measured at the king pins? How are you modifying the caster mount/ lower arm to increase caster?.
The 0, 5, and 10 degree blocks...the hinge pins rest on top of them.
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Old 01-17-2020, 06:02 AM
  #354  
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Originally Posted by JeffofSpace View Post
The 0, 5, and 10 degree blocks...the hinge pins rest on top of them.
And those numbers are the angle of the hinge pin with respect to
the chassis, not the amount of caster.
I grind away the front of the reactive blosk and the hinge pin clamp. This allows for the upper arm to be positioned further reward and increase the static caster.

Last edited by old_dude; 01-17-2020 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 01-17-2020, 10:09 AM
  #355  
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Ah right, read fast and thought he was asking about reactive. Thanks.
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Old 01-17-2020, 11:32 AM
  #356  
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Originally Posted by old_dude View Post
And those numbers are the angle of the hinge pin with res
the chassis, not the amount of caster.
I grind away the front of the reactive blosk and the hinge pin clamp. This allows for the upper arm to be positioned further reward and increase the static caster.
Gotcha, I never thought about trying something like that. I usually run very little caster to begin with. I might have to play around with a set of caps and caster blocks and a lot more shims. It makes sense that the further back you tilt the king pin, the more direct the action of the front suspension will be as it compresses and then decompresses.
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Old 01-17-2020, 01:06 PM
  #357  
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I've always found that more reactive caster smooths out mid corner and exit. And reduces traction rolling a little in the same spots. Kinda over rated. I use the medium reactive caster in 12, and none in wgtr.

And that static caster may increase turning in, and mid corner. More caster always seems best, until the car gets tippy or too intense.

Opposite of every tuning manual. Go figure.
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Old 01-17-2020, 03:11 PM
  #358  
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If you put the car on the scales and turn the front wheels you will see what caster does. It transfers weight from the outside to the inside front wheel and to the opposite rear wheel. That is wedging the car which helps it rotate. The reactive reduces caster on compression. ) has no reduction, 5 is medium and the 10 is max caster reduction on compression. The opposite happens on the side that lifts. To see it, take a wheel off and cycle the kingpin up and down with each reactive block.
Now we can approach another subject. Roll center. The CRC front end has available roll center shims. Lets hear some of you run that one around.
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Old 01-17-2020, 03:48 PM
  #359  
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I run the thinner carbon fiber shim in 12 stock to calm the car down. Thick shim sure felt like understeer to me. No shim on the WGTR.
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Old 01-17-2020, 06:24 PM
  #360  
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Hey old dude. I run. Both the 2mm and 2.5mm. Shim in my car at the same time. That's right 4.5mm of roll center shim added. I ran it at the champs that way. Seems to make the car very reactive
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