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Old 12-25-2005, 08:50 PM   #1
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Default Corally style connector for motors?

Hi, I am thinking of using the Corally style connector to connect my motor. I am thinking to solder the connector onto the motor tab the same way as I solder the connectors onto my battery packs.

Would there be any problems doing that?
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Old 12-25-2005, 09:09 PM   #2
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It depends on how your car is laid out. On my HPI Pro 4, there is not much room between the motor and the ESC. Tube style connectors tend to take up lots of space, so they would not fit well on my chassis.

Another possibility is to use a Dean's connector with very short wires between the connector and the motor tabs. I have tried this and it seems to work well. The short wires allowing positioning the plug conveniently.

Ira
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Old 12-25-2005, 10:06 PM   #3
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Same, on my TC4 the ESC is right behind the motor and there is very little room. Plus I don't pull the motor that often to make it worth it.
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Old 12-25-2005, 10:36 PM   #4
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&page=54&pp=40

Check post #2158 on this page. Should be a pic of a motor with the hood scre replaced with a miniature corally style connector. It threads into the endbell in place of the srcew and has a receptacle to accept the corresponding corally style plug. I know for a fact that my LHS (link in signature for contact info) has them in stock. Just thought you might like that. I am using them and you will not get one to pop off during a race. I have to use a pair of pliers to get them out.
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Old 12-26-2005, 04:59 AM   #5
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would there be any notible performance difference between using connector and hard wiring?
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Old 12-26-2005, 11:26 AM   #6
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I have read reviews stating at least for Dean's that there is no difference between the plug and an equivalent length of 12 gauge wire. Assuming this is true, there should be no loss in performance. I think the same is true of Corally style bananna plugs.

Ira
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Old 12-26-2005, 12:07 PM   #7
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there is always SOME loss, just depends on whether you are good enough to notice it.
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Old 12-26-2005, 12:52 PM   #8
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Though a newbie to this board... I'm not so new to some things RC.

Even though you have deans plugs that have the same or less resistance as the same length of wire, you have to remember something. When your adding plugs to your batts and motors, thats 8 solder joints to create resistance. If you hard wire, your only creating 4. And of course this does not include the solder joints already on your ESC.

Yes you can go out and use the best solder available, such as the stuff from Acer Racing with 6% silver, 94% tin... no lead. But it istill going to create more resistance with the 4 extra solder joints.

Just my 2 cents.

Last edited by XMSRacing; 12-26-2005 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:40 PM   #9
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That's true. The actual Deans connector might be the equivalent of the wire itself, but when you start soldering wires and pins, that's when the resistance starts to rise. No one that I know have has felt a difference between using Deans/Corally connections and hardwiring your electronics.

Connector Resistance (ohms)

Tamiya / JST / Kyosho = 1.2
Deans = 0.55
Powerpole = 0.75
Corally / Orion = 0.75

http://www.schumacher.clara.net/cooling.htm
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Old 01-03-2006, 11:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookinco
Hi, I am thinking of using the Corally style connector to connect my motor. I am thinking to solder the connector onto the motor tab the same way as I solder the connectors onto my battery packs.

Would there be any problems doing that?
I would say if you do club race for fun & you like the convenience of plugs then do it, but if you do major or important racing then don't use plugs.
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Old 01-04-2006, 12:16 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMSRacing
If you hard wire, your only creating 4.
Welcome to the boards.
Actually it's 6 though. No one actually solders the wire directly to the cell. They solder to a bent battery bar that's soldered to the battery
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Old 01-04-2006, 12:33 AM   #12
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I am going to give those Integy motor post euro plug a try.
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Old 01-04-2006, 04:19 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR
Welcome to the boards.
Actually it's 6 though. No one actually solders the wire directly to the cell. They solder to a bent battery bar that's soldered to the battery
Someone around here always has to pick apart what you say!!!

I would consider that joint a requirement - as I did with the ESC joints. Unless you've found a better way to transport the energy!
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Old 01-04-2006, 07:49 AM   #14
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OK just my two pennies here...

I tried those Integy motor plugs...They worked great for about fifteen removals then the male plug got softer and softer..I tried streching the outer piece to no avail. I went back to soldering my motors back in...
Although if you went to the larger size Corally male it might make a tighter connection. But I am comfortable in soldering regurdless. Plus with the KO ESC's you have to solder on the Diode so it really doesn't matter for me...
Try the larger male conterpart though if you are going to use those motor plugs..
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Old 01-07-2006, 10:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
I tried those Integy motor plugs
Just a question. How are these soldered on?
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