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Old 12-29-2005, 11:49 PM   #16
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This is with B side up. The cut is better than the previous orientation, but still UGLY. Notice how this orientation only allows the bit to move so far towards the windings before I have to stop or I risk hitting the tabs against the bit. Obviously not the correct orientation. The other two orientations place the carbide portion of the bit too high to do any good. Is this the wrong bit? Or is there a loose "nut" behind the lathe wheel? I am making sure to have the arm rotate the direction suggested in the pic.
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Old 12-30-2005, 12:24 AM   #17
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Where did you get that bit?? Is it the one that came with the unit?

The super mod lathe 2 and super mod lathe 3 are completely different units.....they use different bits and cut in different directions than each other....

You should put a drop of oil on each v block....

I never use shims, unless the windings are hitting something on the bottom.....I just use my finger to hold the arm into place.....the shaft is never spinning fast enough to hurt you.....and I know it won't bounce.



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Old 12-30-2005, 12:46 AM   #18
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I got the bit out of the same box I got the lathe . . .factory sealed (stapled). I just didn't want to believe they would put the wrong bit in the box. I figured I must be looking at it wrong or just not know how to correctly use the bit. I have looked at like a bazillion pictures here and on BJ's forum, but I am at a loss because this bit has such a funny shape to it. I can't even tell if its AR or AL! Oh well. Maybe someone at the track tomorrow will be able to help me. : ) Thanks for the PM Eddie.
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Old 12-30-2005, 02:18 AM   #19
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I bought the same lathe a few weeks ago to try it out. You have the correct tool. Set it up as my pictures show and it should work fine. I used 1 shim to get the correct hieght, but every cutting tool could be different.

Steve
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Setting up an Integy xipp super lathe 3-dsc08019.jpg   Setting up an Integy xipp super lathe 3-dsc08025.jpg   Setting up an Integy xipp super lathe 3-dsc08026.jpg  
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Old 12-30-2005, 02:24 AM   #20
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Thanks steve. I will give it another try in that orientation with only one shim. I can't do much more damage to this arm than I already have. Glad I started with an old arm : ) What voltage are you running to the leads? I am assuming you are cutting only from laft to right, correct? Thanks
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Old 12-30-2005, 02:44 AM   #21
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Yeah I'm cutting from left to right. I haven't used it much as it's just a spare lathe, but I ran it on a 6 cell pack. It ran a little slow at that speed, so i'd run it from a 12v power supply to get the best cut.

Steve
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Old 12-30-2005, 04:02 AM   #22
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do you have any pics of comms after youve cut them with the lathe? I am getting mixed results varying the shims under the bit and the voltage. See how these cuts compare with what you are getting. This second pic is about as good as it gets I suppose. The first one believe it or not was using the same techniqe as the second cut. I don't know why I got that scallop pattern. Slowly but surely I am making progress. I got that last cut moving the bit in close to the windings and then making the cut away from the windings, cutting from right to left. I get a much rougher cut going the other direction. I used 5 volts and had 4 shims under the bit. Not what I expected, but its working .
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Old 12-30-2005, 04:14 AM   #23
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Coat a layer of WD40 on the commutator surface if you're using a carbide bit. Also, each pass need to be as thin as possible and from looking at the pictures, it seems like you are trying to remove too much material too quickly.
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Old 12-30-2005, 04:33 AM   #24
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I am making the cuts as light as possible. In fact I have found that I get a better cut if I make a little deeper than just skimming it. Thats how I got from picture one to picture two in my last post with out changing anything else. Thanks for the ideas though.
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Old 12-30-2005, 05:15 AM   #25
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... but that's not the way it's supposed to be, you probably need to resharpen the bit or get a new one. It's possible that the cutting point is damaged.
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Old 12-30-2005, 05:30 AM   #26
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You might be right. All I know is what works. FOr what its worth this is the first day this bit has seen action and has only been over the com in the picture about 7-10 times at most. Go figure . . .
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Old 12-30-2005, 09:53 AM   #27
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That bit is probably toast, as you had it on backwards....a carbide can cut just as good as a diamond bit, but they wear out faster...

They are cheap on mcmaster carr though....like $5 each or something

We cut about 2000+ comms a month at the shop....we never use any cutting fluid....just a sharpie.......

The key with a good cut....is that its ROUND.....it should have a SATIN look to it, like the bottom of a CD (not a CDR)......if its shiny like glass....check your bit.

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Old 12-30-2005, 01:37 PM   #28
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I got my lathe setup earlier this week and I also went to my LHS to get a diamond bit for it and to have them check to see if i set it up right. They said i did and it looks nice. With my diamond bit i have 3 of those clear plastic trips under the bit to have it center line to the comm. This works great and I love this lathe. I put some Trinity motor oil on the V-blocks as well, and I just use a sharpie on the comm. The sharpie also helps you see if youve cut the comm all the way and correctly. I run the slave motor at 3 volts from my Pulsar 2. No flaws what so ever. Sorry, but I cant take any pics of my comms after words cause I dont have a digital camera. lol but the comms look very nice and shiny afterwords. Just make very small adjustments when youre cutting the comm. You dont want to cut to much off and it also may wear ur bit out after a while. Plus once the comm gets to small and u still cut alot off u may risk on having the bit get cought up and u may damage the bit and ur motor. What I also like to do after maybe every 4 passes across the comm when i do small skimms is take an exacto knife and run it along the little ridges just to get any extra copper out, and then i take a ball point pen to run across the ridges just so their arent sticking out and so they get rounded off. Then i just do maybe 1 or 2 more skims to make sure its cut nice and smooth then repeat the exacto and ball point pen step over after. Then when I break my motors in I oil the bushings of course and i put 1 or 2 drops of oil where the brush hoods are, just so the brushes are a little easier to re-bound and a little less of a chance of getting cought up.
Hope this helps any of you guys out. And good luck racing to all of you.
Also i would like to thank for your guy's help as well. For helping me get mine setup too.

Chris.
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Old 12-30-2005, 01:48 PM   #29
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Thanks for sharing your experience TL racer. I suppose I blew this bit. I will be getting a new bit soon and then move up to a diamond after a while. Thanks guys,
Andrew
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Old 12-30-2005, 02:04 PM   #30
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I would go ahead and get the diamond bit if I were you. The one at my LHS only cost me about $65. Need any help just ask. It just takes practice and patience. I do very small adjustmens each pass and I get the best results. May take 10min but looks great. Rather do it right and take a little longer than not do it the correct way and just do it fast. The better the cut the better performance (of course). Also get a sturdy flat surface to cut on. Not a talbe that wobbles, cause that may mess up your cut.

Chris
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