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Old 01-21-2006, 07:59 PM   #166
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I just started playing with the lipo settings on the 16x8v6, it gives me the choice of 1, 2, or 3 cells, MaH setting, charge amperage, And delta peak along with discharge settings. My next question is what would be the correct setting for the delta peak, or millivolt cutout value if this makes sense. I wish integy was better about giving charge profiles in the instructions. If this sounds like the charger is way off base, might need to get an ice..........
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Old 01-21-2006, 08:21 PM   #167
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ok, just found under the "prevent faulse peaking" section the charger should be set at 8mv/cell. Discharge cutoff is at 2.6v per cell, not that I plan to discharge a pack after reading the FAQ on the battery........
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Old 01-21-2006, 08:36 PM   #168
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Set your discharge voltage to 3v per cell when you are dis-charging LiPos. I do use the temp sensor just as a precaution if something goes wrong during the charge. To be honest, I don't think the peak detection really matters. What you should see as the LiPo is charged to capacity, the amperage of the charge will begin to reduce. LiPos begin to "resist" the charge as they get "full". That's the way most LiPo chargers detect a full charge. I also set max capacity to 110% of the MAH capacity of the battery. Lastly, the MAX charge amperage should be set to the battery capacity multiplied by .001. So, if you are chargeing a 4800MAH LiPo, the max charge amperage should be at 4.8. You can always charge at less than this (especially for the first few charges) but don't go any higher.
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:31 AM   #169
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The charging regime is CC/CV. This means the batteries begin charging with a continuous current (CC). When a certain cut-off voltage is reached, the charger will keep the voltage constant (CV) and the charging current will decrease until the full state of charge is reached. When using a higher rate than 1C, the battery will reach the cut-off more quickly but at this point it is not fully charged. After switching to CV, it will take longer to reach the 100% full state
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Old 01-22-2006, 05:27 AM   #170
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I dont think the charger will allow me to change from the 2.6v per cell cut off.
Manual states: "Li-polymer discharge cutoff voltage is 2.6v per cell, this value is lower than the usual 3.0v cutoff point for burst rate discharge. The 2.6v per cell cutoff voltage is still considered safe for li-polymer as long as your battery pack is in good "balanced" condition. However, li-polymer battery can deteriorate when stored without any charge".

As far as charging it also says the charge current will stop completely after 4.2v per cell level is reached. I though these cells were rated at 3.7v per cell?

Thanks for any info guys, I'm sure figuring this charger out will help those too who are looking at this new charger for li-po possibilities.
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Old 01-22-2006, 04:36 PM   #171
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For those that have used the platnium lipo battery, is there any good or bad thing you have to say about it?

So far from what i have read, the Li-po gives longer runtime, doesn't heat up, higher voltage, and no limit on how many times you could charge in a day.

As for charger, I have an ICE and a Integy 16X8V6 so that shoudln't be a problem.

Say after you run 5 minutes stock qualify from a fully charged Li-po pack. How long would it take if you want to recharge the li-po pack until it's full?
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Old 01-22-2006, 07:35 PM   #172
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Does anyone know if either the Novak GTB or the LRP Sphere have a lipo voltage cutoff? Nothing I can find in the manuals but it looks as if the Sphere Competition claims to have an "Autocell System" for Lipo compatibility whatever that means. I'd rather not risk the drive until it slows method on a battery this expensive...

If not built into the brushless/brushed ESCs, is there anything that can be plugged between battery and ESC to cutoff?
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:20 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookinco
For those that have used the platnium lipo battery, is there any good or bad thing you have to say about it?

So far from what i have read, the Li-po gives longer runtime, doesn't heat up, higher voltage, and no limit on how many times you could charge in a day.

As for charger, I have an ICE and a Integy 16X8V6 so that shoudln't be a problem.

Say after you run 5 minutes stock qualify from a fully charged Li-po pack. How long would it take if you want to recharge the li-po pack until it's full?
I just ran mine all night at the track in the 4wd mod buggy class...I got to charge it all the way, do a qualifier and charge it back up. If I recall, it took 15-1600 MAH to charge it back up to "full" on the ICE at 4.8A. I think it took 15-20 minutes, tops. I'm running a 5800 Novak, geared as per their chart (about 9:1) and it's VERY fast on the straight, almost too fast for me.

The cool thing is that you don't really have to charge them up to full every time. You have 4800 MAH to use...you can easily run two qualifiers on one charge, then top it off for the main, or charge it up every time. The instructions say it will have a longer service life if you don't discharge it all the way every time...that it will do better with smaller charge cycles.

I love it...gonna buy another one next week. Takes a lot of the hassle out of the battery deal. No discharging, no cycling, equalizing...just charge it and go. Oh yeah...it gets slightly (very slightly) warm when you use it...cools off as it charges.

Gonna try racing it in the gas class at one of the local tracks...10 minute main.
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Old 01-23-2006, 04:59 AM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuzo
Does anyone know if either the Novak GTB or the LRP Sphere have a lipo voltage cutoff? Nothing I can find in the manuals but it looks as if the Sphere Competition claims to have an "Autocell System" for Lipo compatibility whatever that means. I'd rather not risk the drive until it slows method on a battery this expensive...

If not built into the brushless/brushed ESCs, is there anything that can be plugged between battery and ESC to cutoff?

LRP new Sphere Competition has the built in lipo cut-off ......on Novak you can plug a cheap liposaver that will cut to 6V ...it will costs 15$ ....you can buy one from most lipo supplier.....
Bye

Last edited by capellone24; 01-23-2006 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 01-23-2006, 11:08 AM   #175
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If your electronic speed controller allows, set the cut-off to 6.0v. If not, stop driving when your motor loses power, remove the battery from the car, and recharge it. NEVER let the battery rest for a few minutes and then continue driving without first re-charging.
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Old 01-23-2006, 12:55 PM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo Joe
I just ran mine all night at the track in the 4wd mod buggy class...I got to charge it all the way, do a qualifier and charge it back up. If I recall, it took 15-1600 MAH to charge it back up to "full" on the ICE at 4.8A. I think it took 15-20 minutes, tops. I'm running a 5800 Novak, geared as per their chart (about 9:1) and it's VERY fast on the straight, almost too fast for me.

The cool thing is that you don't really have to charge them up to full every time. You have 4800 MAH to use...you can easily run two qualifiers on one charge, then top it off for the main, or charge it up every time. The instructions say it will have a longer service life if you don't discharge it all the way every time...that it will do better with smaller charge cycles.

I love it...gonna buy another one next week. Takes a lot of the hassle out of the battery deal. No discharging, no cycling, equalizing...just charge it and go. Oh yeah...it gets slightly (very slightly) warm when you use it...cools off as it charges.

Gonna try racing it in the gas class at one of the local tracks...10 minute main.
Very nice

Too bad my home track circuit organizers don't want anyone use Li Po for racing........ ( maybe 2007 ).
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Old 01-23-2006, 04:44 PM   #177
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Default Not the same size - it doesnt fit...

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Last edited by or8ital; 10-12-2006 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 01-23-2006, 05:53 PM   #178
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Well...since the Platinum pack is 135g lighter than a pack of 3800's you could hang half of the battery off the chassis and the electronics side would still be heavier than the battery side.

If you crash enough to tear tape run double layers of tape. If you double tape and still tear it...its time to give up R/C racing and take up Battle Bots
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Old 01-23-2006, 05:59 PM   #179
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Last edited by or8ital; 10-12-2006 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 01-23-2006, 06:07 PM   #180
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That's a real shame...guess you'll just have to sell it to me (for cheap).
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