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Old 01-13-2006, 07:18 AM   #46
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whoops... i forgot! ill get one on this eve.

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Old 01-29-2006, 01:55 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
I've tried CRC tube lube, a couple different diff lubes, Corally syrup, and none of it is thick enough. You need to use super stiff/sticky diff lube or the Trinity purple stuff is the best I've found so far.
Same here...the stock tubes are junk. To loose and to small without resorting to really thick diff grease. Here's my new solution I came up with tonight.....cut down CRC damper tubes, drilled and taped 4-40 to use the same AE ball cups that corally uses on the tubes. CRC tubes are setup for 2-56 hardware from the package. I easly have triple the damping compared to the stock tubes using the same lube in both

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Old 06-05-2006, 10:16 AM   #48
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Default Blank Setup Sheet

Anyone have a pdf version of the setup sheet?
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:48 AM   #49
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Hi,

If you are looking for the empty setup sheets you can find them in the pdf manual:

http://international.corally.com/pdf...-AE-Manual.pdf

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Old 06-05-2006, 11:30 AM   #50
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If anyone is interested, I've got an SP12M Euro in very good condition for sale. PM for details...
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Old 06-05-2006, 01:38 PM   #51
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Mooony

Any idea if there is a G3 manual floating around the internet world?
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Old 06-06-2006, 01:39 AM   #52
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Quote:
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Mooony

Any idea if there is a G3 manual floating around the internet world?
Hi rinkrat99,

Not that I know of. Maybe somebody has the manual and can transform it in pdf.

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Old 06-07-2006, 03:09 PM   #53
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Any thoughts on a bumper for this car similar to a BRP for a TC?

A little difficult to install maybe but it might be best if we add a bumper and secure it to the front bodyposts.

See attached pics
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Corally SP12M-resize-hpim0396.jpg   Corally SP12M-resize-hpim0397.jpg  
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Old 06-08-2006, 03:25 PM   #54
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I've made just something like that out of fiberglass for a 12M and the outside "wings" break very easily. After that I never tried to fabricate a bumper anymore. The car is pretty bulletproof, and if you want to save your body you can always put some kind of foam on the inside of the body.
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Old 08-02-2006, 11:20 PM   #55
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Does anyone know if the G3 uses a center shock and if so, what is the p/n of the antenna mount/lower ballstud for the shock?

Thanks
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Old 08-03-2006, 12:16 AM   #56
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I don't believe the G3 came with a center shock although if you had the damperplate designed for using a shock (Corally part # 75595) and the Corally 1/12th Micro Shock kit # 74900 you would have all you need assuming you were using the stock G3 remote antenna mount. I think most racers used an Associated/CRC type antenna/shock mount and adjusted the shock length by getting the long ball ends and trimming them to size.

There wasn't much info in the old Corally 'Instruction Manual's. I have never seen one online.

Good Luck!!
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Old 08-03-2006, 02:22 PM   #57
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Hi all

I currently have the G3 but from what I understand, it can be converted to the SP12M fairly easily.

I am currently using the solid front wishbone which I broke last night so I need to fix parts. The track we run at is Ozite Carpet with low to med bite characteristics.

So I see that Corally has the full wishbone in aluminum which might be the way to go. Is there any benefit to going with the Lower Wishbine setup with wishbone connectors?

Thanks
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Old 08-04-2006, 12:05 AM   #58
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Rinkrat99,

The 12M has a different front end design than the G3. 12M front end parts will NOT fit your G3. I'm guessing that the front beam, or wishbone as you call it, that broke was the graphite one,(Corally part number #75058). If you are considering switching to the coral, (aluminum), G3 front beam part #750540 I would suggest calling Corally USA before buying one because they used to have a different machined thread which of course required a different kingpin which I don't know the part number for. This may have changed on the more recent replacement parts.

On the 12M, the seperate wishbones offer alot of adjustability but the solid front beam helps keep the front end 'flatter' in the turns and also has less camber gain.

Hope this helps
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Old 08-04-2006, 09:03 AM   #59
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Hi RLS

As I am new to the Corally world, I appreciate your input.

As I understand it from a SP12M owner, the front ends are interchangeable. I have the G3 wishbone similar to the p/n 74817 aluminum piece. This was Fiberglass and is now broken. p/n 74812 is the SP12M lower wishbones which require the additional p/n 74820-74823 wishbone connectors.

The 75058 is the camber bar. The 750540 is the graphite wishbone which I think is fiberglass.

I did not know that there would be a problem switching to the 74812 style. What have you found to be the better solution for carpet?
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:04 AM   #60
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Rinkrat99,

Sorry if I gave you bad numbers. I'd like to find a better web site to look up all Corally parts, (Jeff Brown @ Corally USA- are you listening?!?). Stormer Hobbies lists 75058 as a G3 Graphite front beam and 750540 as the aluminum one for the G3. They list the G3 Camber Bars as 75110 through 75114. In the future I'll get part numbers from the new catalog if possible. I will have time on Sunday to dig out my 1/12th scale stuff and check on that front end question. Although I don't have a G3 anymore, I do have an aluminum front beam that fit the G3 and the older SP12V car, (which I do have). I remember trying to mount the G3 beam on my first 12M car and it wouldn't fit because the spring assemblies were in a different position. I could be wrong....I'll double check on Sunday and get back to you on that one.

Honestly, I think the stock G3 is a great Ozite racer. Have you tried adding a 1mm washer under the front pivot balls, (adding negative caster)? Adding the center shock to the car will give a sharper weight transfer but add weight and maintenance. You can also change the feel of the car by experimenting with rear roll center by adding washers under one or both T-plate pivot balls. Using the Extra-Hard (Green Label) damper syrup will really 'tighten' the car up in case you haven't tried it. I know a guy who used to set his car on a small trash can upside down under his pit table when he wasn't working on it to keep the damper syrup up in the damper instead of draining down into the lower rubber boot. Make one change at a time but make them 'extreme' enough so that you can really feel if you are going in the right direction.

Have Fun testing!
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