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Old 06-10-2016, 06:06 PM   #61
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You guys had me believing the yokomo was the car for me... that many smart racers unable to decipher a manual means I'll be leaving that car in Japan


日本語を勉強。
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Old 06-10-2016, 07:19 PM   #62
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You guys had me believing the yokomo was the car for me... that many smart racers unable to decipher a manual means I'll be leaving that car in Japan
I'm pretty sure that you could figure out what to do with a Yok. Besides, once you get a chance to try driving mine, you may not even want anything more to do with a sliding kingpin.
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Old 06-10-2016, 07:41 PM   #63
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Ok, here's a dumb thought. Maybe the bulkhead shims are actually droop shims. Shim the bulkheads up more for more droop. Less shims equal less droop. Adjust the push rod for ride height.... No?
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Old 06-10-2016, 07:49 PM   #64
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I'd be shipping it right back to Japan for my buddy Edward to assemble
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Old 06-10-2016, 07:57 PM   #65
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Probably not before first cutting a trick alloy chassis plate
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:58 PM   #66
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日本語を勉強。
I entered this into Google Translate to see if Edward was calling us idiots or having a little fun with the North American crew.

Looks like it means "studying Japanese" in Japanese. Well played Edward. Well played.
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Old 06-11-2016, 08:21 AM   #67
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Thanks, OriginalDonk. I can't hate on the N/A crew, because that's 99% of my YouTube audience. Lol


Looking at the manual and speaking with a sponsored Yokomo driver. The ride height is adjusted by the shins underneath the blocks (standard setup with most 1/12ths) and the droop/preload is adjusted by the friction damper rod. Adjusting the nut on the rod will adjust the droop/preload. Simple and effective, I like it!
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Last edited by EDWARD2003; 06-11-2016 at 08:34 AM.
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Old 06-11-2016, 12:52 PM   #68
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Thanks, OriginalDonk. I can't hate on the N/A crew, because that's 99% of my YouTube audience. Lol


Looking at the manual and speaking with a sponsored Yokomo driver. The ride height is adjusted by the shins underneath the blocks (standard setup with most 1/12ths) and the droop/preload is adjusted by the friction damper rod. Adjusting the nut on the rod will adjust the droop/preload. Simple and effective, I like it!
Awesome, thanks for checking in!
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:14 AM   #69
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I'm curious as to how much this car weights. The R12C3 was a bit on the heavy side, what about this one?

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Old 06-16-2016, 09:44 PM   #70
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I would say stock out of the box with the same motor, battery, esc, rx, (different servo) as my Roche.... it would be about 10grams heavier. Now my Roche had the Ti/Al screw kit and Xenon hard plastics with Xenon pivot balls in the frontend. The servo was a Futaba 9650. Not the lightest of servos but light enough. I could easily come in at or under 730g. The Yokomo with same body would come in around 742g. Servo in the Yok is Sanwa SRG-HR. A little smaller and lighter than the 9650. I also have Ti steering tie rods. That saved 2grams vs the steel ones. I should lose more moving to Ti/Al screws. I could lose 8grams from dumping the bell crank steering if I wanted. I could lose well over 10grams from a motor swap. But no dice on that. I run R1 motors. They come in at 170g for 17.5. Reedy comes in around 172g. Everything else is about 10~15g lighter.

Anyways, sorry I can't compare to the C3. But it is possible to hit weight or go under depending on your running gear.
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:56 PM   #71
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Thanks. I never could get my R12C3 under 750, and that was with aluminum and titanium screws and turnbuckles. The front end was particularly heavy.

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Old 06-16-2016, 11:14 PM   #72
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Electronics play a key role in the cars overall weight.
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Old 06-17-2016, 02:48 AM   #73
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This is what I ended up with... 734. But I used a bunch of Ti hardware also.
Attached Thumbnails
Yokomo YRX12-1.jpg   Yokomo YRX12-2.jpg   Yokomo YRX12-3.jpg  
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:37 PM   #74
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This is what I ended up with... 734. But I used a bunch of Ti hardware also.
Are you having issues running the SMC 1s esc? I'm thinking about getting that esc, but I notice you have a booster or something soldered in?
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:45 PM   #75
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One other question, are you running the XRay rear hub screws? I noticed you can't run BSR/CRC wheels in the rear with the kit screws.
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