e58105419

RC10F6 TO TEAMSAXO LM body

Racermac73

iTrader: (3)

looks great

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

JConcepts Layla copy. Nice to see them backpouring bodies other than Protoform. Equal opportunity exploiter..

1/8 IC Fan

iTrader: (102)

You do have a very valid point, I am not sure but I think they used to clone Team Bomber bodies too.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

That body is straight up Theft by Team Saxo. Not even trying to hide the fact it is the Protoform Layla being ripped off directly.

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

It is more looking like one of the WRC bodies...

0010

iTrader: (4)

HI. I just bought a used F6 from a local racer and I have a couple of questions. First, do you remove the top shock to install/remove the battery? Or is everyone using a LCG battery?

Second, I see that the side springs are on a threaded adjuster. What does this do? Is it ride height, tweak, or what? When I first test ran the car on low traction concrete, it pulled hard left on acceleration. I loosened the rear diff and this helped some, but it didn't take it all out. Then I noticed these adjusters weren't even on the car. The right side was adjusted down more then the left, effectively putting more preload on the right side of the rear pod. Would this cause the car to push to the left due to more weight/traction on the right rear tire?

I am completely new to the F1 cars. I am a big F1 fan, so I thought having an F1 car to race would be a blast. I typically run touring cars, so the adjustments on this car are completely foreign to me.

Thanks in advance!

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

I have to remove the shock to install the battery.

Those side springs are for tweak and also to adjust preload for roll. That's probably not helping the pulling to the left. Also check the alloy standoffs in the front suspension to make sure they're not bent.

0010

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Gigaplex!

The car doesn't pull under gentle acceleration or constant speed, only medium to heavy acceleration. It was really bad when the diff was tight. The previous owner had the diff so tight that it felt a bit notchy. I loosened it up a bunch ( at one point it was so loose, the car would barely move!) and that tamed it somewhat, but it is still there. What should I be looking at? Or is that a characteristic of 2wd direct drive cars?

Thanks!

sweems

If you are unsure about the adjustments on the F1 cars check out the wiki in the 12 Forum. The entire bottom half is a good primer on all pan car chassis adjustments.

Mr. Bubby

iTrader: (6)

I would probably start out by running on an actual racing surface such as carpet or a nice asphalt track. I just recently got into F1 myself a couple of years ago and was very very frustrated at the beginning. First off you'll have to update the ball cups on the steering bellcranks, unless they've been updated already, I used the Xray style of ballcup on the steering bellcrank, the stock associated ones just seem to loosen up all the time. I know you mentioned that you didn't like the diff cranked all the way down, but really what I've found out is that the locked up diff is actually the way to go, at least on carpet, not sure about asphalt. I got one from High Velocity RC (they're on Facebook). Make sure all bearings are good. Put the car on a Tweak Station (this is where you will adjust those side springs, and make sure that you pop off the side dampers when you are adjusting the side springs). And finally, after you've done all that, put the car on a setup station to adjust the steering throw and set the toe. I just use the front part of my Touring Car setup station for this. And remember it's more of a rolling start with these cars, not just a point and shoot like Touring cars. Hope this helps out a little for ya. Once you get it handling good, you'll have a blast cuz they look so damn cool on the track.

sonic31

iTrader: (6)

aracefan

iTrader: (69)

Is that the PSM O-ring holder? I just ordered one of those from A-Main. Have it on my 12R6 and it works great. Good looking F1!!

J Lee

Good looking machine. Can you share parts # to convert the center shock? thanks

sonic31

iTrader: (6)

that stand off i used is from an Emax nighthawk drone, on ebay they sell a hardware set for that which includes those standoffs.
i used a 8 or 10mm long set screw on the servo mount part with a 1mm wide spacer + a 2mm alum. spacer.
everything else is kit std.