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Old 01-31-2018, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by russmustar View Post
Gentlemen-Recently while at the track, overheard many racers talking about locking their diffs by either cranking the adjustment screw tight or using pegs in the spur gear instead of balls. I have been racing onroad before diffs were available like pre ASC 12E and, for the life of me, cannot fathom how you could get a car to turn without the rotation of the rearend around the corner. Am I missing something? Of course, as I stated before, almost all my carpet racing was done on foams, as opposed to CRC rubber. THX
You heard correctly. The diff locking only really is required on CRC black carpet because of the extreme bite. The bite despite the setup on the car causes the inside rear tire to lift off the ground killing all your forward momentum. So you are right in that the car does not turn well with a locked diff. This can be seen while in a high speed sweeper. The car will push. In slower turns though when the inside tire is off the ground, a diff is pointless and keeping the inside wheel spinning forward when setting back on the ground gives a lot of drive off the turn.
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Old 01-31-2018, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
You heard correctly. The diff locking only really is required on CRC black carpet because of the extreme bite. The bite despite the setup on the car causes the inside rear tire to lift off the ground killing all your forward momentum. So you are right in that the car does not turn well with a locked diff. This can be seen while in a high speed sweeper. The car will push. In slower turns though when the inside tire is off the ground, a diff is pointless and keeping the inside wheel spinning forward when setting back on the ground gives a lot of drive off the turn.
And you still use the balls right? The pegs go in the open set of spur holes according what RobK was saying.
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Old 01-31-2018, 11:06 AM
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Thx Jamie, would a gear diff w/heavy or tacky grease have the same affect? THX
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Old 01-31-2018, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
And you still use the balls right? The pegs go in the open set of spur holes according what RobK was saying.
I must have missed Rob's post but he is like a godfather when it comes to F1. If he says it, than the message is gold.
I do not have the balls in the spur gear. The balls were replaced with pegs. A ball diff or even gear diff will be faster if we can find a way to keep wheels on the ground. I have not tried a Gear diff yet, but I know many people have had a lot of success with them. I don't know if it is because of the thick grease or the extra weight from the gear assembly and steel axle.
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Old 01-31-2018, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Part #: 8665 - Lower arm posts
Part #: 8637 - New Top deck plate
Part #: 8643 - Suspension Brace
Part #: 8664 - Upper deck posts (Top Plate Standoffs)
Part #: 8679 - Front wing shims (must have picked up one of the last sets)
Part #: 8638 - Lower arms (not in stock last time I ordered)
Cool, thx!
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Old 01-31-2018, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
I must have missed Rob's post but he is like a godfather when it comes to F1. If he says it, than the message is gold.
I do not have the balls in the spur gear. The balls were replaced with pegs. A ball diff or even gear diff will be faster if we can find a way to keep wheels on the ground. I have not tried a Gear diff yet, but I know many people have had a lot of success with them. I don't know if it is because of the thick grease or the extra weight from the gear assembly and steel axle.
For the gear diff, I use 300-500k to slow it and run the nut tighter than usual to get the slow diff action. Some guys at our track are taking the thrust bearing out and replacing it with just black grease between the washers to slow and almost lock the balldiff.
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Old 02-01-2018, 03:53 PM
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PSM in the next week or two will be releasing their battery positioning/hold down system for the F6 just similar to the RC12 R6 design they currently have below:




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Old 02-01-2018, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
I must have missed Rob's post but he is like a godfather when it comes to F1. If he says it, than the message is gold.
I do not have the balls in the spur gear. The balls were replaced with pegs. A ball diff or even gear diff will be faster if we can find a way to keep wheels on the ground. I have not tried a Gear diff yet, but I know many people have had a lot of success with them. I don't know if it is because of the thick grease or the extra weight from the gear assembly and steel axle.


Thanks for the kind words.

I use a spur with 2 rows of holes such as Kimbrough, Xenon, Arrowmax, etc., and run regular diff balls in the outer holes, and Traxxas pegs on the inner row. The pegs you can vary the number of depending on how much drag you want. Lately I just fill up the inner row. I also only lube the diff balls and leave the rings dry to give the pegs a non greased surface to create friction.

With the AE car, I'm pretty sure it has an actual thrust bearing vs. a standard bearing, so you can run pegs without too much problem. With standard bearings, the tension of the pegs will eat up/destroy bearings. High tension can also pull the stud out of the axle on some axles. I pin the axle with a thin diameter music wire, but I run a different car than AE.

I made a little jig to cut the pegs as flat as possible with a razor blade for max surface area. 3.05 mm is about where you have to cut the pegs if you use diff balls too. I have always wondered if a "pegs only" setup would work, but I believe Jamie has just confirmed that for us. In that case, peg length may not be as critical, as long as they are all the same size.

I think the advantage of the pegs over a gear diff is the lower weight in high traction. I tend to think heavier axles are an advantage in the large majority of situations, but especially at big events, lighter should be better.
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Old 02-02-2018, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post


Thanks for the kind words.

I use a spur with 2 rows of holes such as Kimbrough, Xenon, Arrowmax, etc., and run regular diff balls in the outer holes, and Traxxas pegs on the inner row. The pegs you can vary the number of depending on how much drag you want. Lately I just fill up the inner row. I also only lube the diff balls and leave the rings dry to give the pegs a non greased surface to create friction.
To add to what Rob said. If you run balls and pegs, make sure you have a standard D-ring and not a lightened version. The pegs will not work on the inner holes with a lightened diff ring.
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Old 02-04-2018, 10:58 PM
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Just built the car. It was missing one of the plastic bits used to make the droop. Can I just use a regular button screw or will the contact graphite to metal be too much for the arm?
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Old 02-06-2018, 07:10 AM
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What are you guy's feelings on the Exotek Rear Traction Plate Kit?

I am running on medium grip carpet on a rather small track.
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Old 02-06-2018, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by CrawJac View Post
What are you guy's feelings on the Exotek Rear Traction Plate Kit?

I am running on medium grip carpet on a rather small track.
It would offer more flex and would be better suited for very low grip. The battery hold down is a nice touch.
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Old 02-06-2018, 07:38 PM
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F6 Battery Retention System ? OnTrackRC

Been out for a while.
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:26 AM
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Hey Group,

I just picked up one of the AE F1 cars and looking to build it up for racing at the Tamiya track and/or indoor racing at TQ racing. By no means am I new to RC, just new to racing F1.

I'm hoping you can help me out with:
- General build tips
- What body to run. Just picked up a Protoform F1-Fifteen 1545-30
- Suggested carpet tires
- Suggested asphalt tires

Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:38 PM
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For you, fellow Associated drivers, we've released the "Slim" Chassis for the F6.
Available in both, 2mm 7075-T6 and 2.5mm carbon fibre.
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