KINGZJ

iTrader: (4)

You need to use a set of castor pointers

Jamie Hanson

iTrader: (39)

Only problem with this is because it is a one piece molded arm, using different size shims will ever so slightly throw off measurements and create a bind in the upper arm balls. This can be done, but a lot of slop will need to be created in the ball in order to keep the arm free. We used to do this with Tamiya F1s, but there was already a lot of slop in the arm that allowed for free movement.
The Exo upper arms allow for the reactive caster because the upper arm is two pieces. Only downfall is not being able to easily access the droop screw that AE was ever so nice to provide to us. I am working out a way in my head to get around that though.
In regards to setting caster, I would love if someone made some caster pointers that will work with the Hudy setup station. It would be similar to what was developed to the Awesomatic Caster Doodles, but needs to somehow attach to a kingpin. In my head I see a two piece sliding pointer that attaches to the axle and also mounts to the bottom lip of the king pin. I wish I knew how to use a CAD software better so I could produce them.

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Because the Exotek arms bolt together solid as a solid piece, you still get the same binding in the kingpin ball as you would with the stock Associated arms. I ran into this problem when I tried running reactive caster on my F1R3.

I'm working on some caster pointers for the F6, but haven't had time between work and other projects. I designed some similar pointers for the CRC F1, but that steering block is a totally different design, so I'll have to start from scratch with the AE car.

KINGZJ

iTrader: (4)

castor pointers are already available. Fenix has them and I have a set I use with the Hudy setup station and they work great. And dont worry about shipping I couldnt believe how fast they came it was about a week from time of order including a trip across the pond.

If you want true reactive castor you would need to have a link system with a ball style steering arm mount. Just like the old trinity cars or the current Fenix car. This would give you the smoothest and most predictable castor. This is why back in the day the trinity car was so sucessfull winning basically most everything.

RobS

Probably asked and answered already but couldn't find it... But is the Fenix chassis the only aluminum chassis available for the F6?

Giorgio

iTrader: (1)

You may want to check at CRC if they have stock.

robk

iTrader: (22)

The trick is to back off the screw bolting the 2 upper arms together like 1/2 turn. A little lock tite keeps it together.

BTW what happened to the reactive caster blocks for the CRC?

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

The tolerances with Shapeways meant that you'd have to drill out the hinge pin holes in order to mount them. Every time I tweaked the model, the pins would be too sloppy, or they would have to be drilled out. I even tried a set of the loose fitting versions with set screws to take up the slop in the pins. That didn't work how I wanted, either. I figured most racers wouldn't want to bother with drilling them out so I never made the model live for the public to purchase.

DoubleRR24

Has anyone come up with a better, or easier, way to secure the battery other than using battery tape? Are there any aftermarket systems that use velcro?

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

I just used Velcro. 2 strips on the battery to chassis.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

You should have no problems with bind if you reset the arm spacing via that single screw in the arm.
1. raise the rear inner ball height as needed.
2. loosen the csk screw on the upper arm
3. pop the upper arms into place
4. retighten csk screw
The upper arm swings on it's own radius so that is not cause of the bind. The key is resetting the csk screw when changing the rear ball height because the distance changes between ball cups minutely with the new ball height.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

I simply use a camber gauge and have it pointing towards the back of the car. Take the wheels off and line the gauge up to the steering pin. 2 tools for the price of 1

DoubleRR24

Sounds simple enough.

Thanks.

donatelli

Very much thanks!

cyclone

Hi guys,

I have a big problem where the car feels nice everywhere except high speed corners. Especially sweepers where if i use even slightly too much steering lock, the car snap oversteers.It has a bouncing/juddering sensation as it does it.

I've tried softer and harder springs all round, thicker damping front and side, more front droop, less front droop, different camber.

Im totally lost as to how to fix this. Does anyone have any experience of fixing this problem?

This is on ETS carpet and Volante tyres, so maybe a little less grip than many of you experence where the black crc carpet is used?

Thanks for any help!