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Old 09-27-2017, 11:45 PM
  #691  
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Originally Posted by donatelli
Hi all, a technical question to ask. If the traction is poor at the track, should I use shock oil with less weight (e.g. 5K cst) to the damper tubes? Thanks!
Generally yes. Soften the car up if there is less traction.
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Old 09-27-2017, 11:47 PM
  #692  
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Originally Posted by donatelli
Hi all, a technical question to ask. If the traction is poor at the track, should I use shock oil with less weight (e.g. 5K cst) to the damper tubes? Thanks!
the direct opposite. Transition would be too quick for the tires to hook. Hard to believe, better try it yourself and see how it goes. CHeers
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Old 09-27-2017, 11:58 PM
  #693  
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http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/rctips_112_summary.pdf

My Apologies. I cannot read it seems.. missed the whole damper tubes at the end.
Anyway... click the link above and save it for future reference.
Here's an excerpt.

SIDE TUBES / DAMPER LUBE
Typically 10,000 ofna lube or Losi med hydra fluid
THICKER – increases front traction – adds steering. Slows transition and softens steering in fast sweepers. If car is double steering on power use
thicker oil to slow reaction time but if go to far you can see inside rear tire lift in tight corners.
THINNER – decreases front traction – decreases steering.

Last edited by SirKarnage; 09-28-2017 at 12:02 AM. Reason: I can't read
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Old 09-28-2017, 09:02 AM
  #694  
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Thanks very much for the help!
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Old 09-28-2017, 01:29 PM
  #695  
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Recommend a aluminum servo arm please. My servo is strong enough to not need a servo saver. I can handle taking the chance.
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Old 09-28-2017, 06:27 PM
  #696  
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
Recommend a aluminum servo arm please. My servo is strong enough to not need a servo saver. I can handle taking the chance.
Team Associated - Make sure you get the right spline for whatever servo you have.
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Old 10-07-2017, 03:13 PM
  #697  
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Upon finishing the front build of the car the o rings that hold the pivot balls are a bitch to install I used a dental pick to stretch the o ring over and into the slot. The E clips weren't much easier. Installing the steering post in the middle of the car through the suspension arms was a bitch too. But the hole in the servo mount helped. Used a 2.0 in the steering post screw to stabilize the assembly as I screwed the bottom screw in
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Old 10-11-2017, 04:41 PM
  #698  
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Has anyone had success with spacing the car to a full 190mm width? I'd love to hear how you did it.

In the rear, the car measures approximately 176mm with no axle spacers. I can add 3.5mm per side before the pinion is hanging too far off the motor shaft for my liking and the left hub is left with only 8mm of axle penetration. That gets me only 183mm. How are you folks making up the added 3mm per side?

In the front, I can use axle spacers to get 190mm, but the scrub radius seems excessively large (outside front tire hits a Protoform wing at full lock, for example) and the lock nut no longer engages the nylon. I can work around this but I'm left feeling that I'm somehow outside of design parameters.

I'd love to hear your workarounds.

-SS
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Old 10-12-2017, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by sps3172
Has anyone had success with spacing the car to a full 190mm width? I'd love to hear how you did it.

In the rear, the car measures approximately 176mm with no axle spacers. I can add 3.5mm per side before the pinion is hanging too far off the motor shaft for my liking and the left hub is left with only 8mm of axle penetration. That gets me only 183mm. How are you folks making up the added 3mm per side?

In the front, I can use axle spacers to get 190mm, but the scrub radius seems excessively large (outside front tire hits a Protoform wing at full lock, for example) and the lock nut no longer engages the nylon. I can work around this but I'm left feeling that I'm somehow outside of design parameters.

I'd love to hear your workarounds.

-SS
Steve, on the xray I have very little axle left to grab on the hub side, mine measures out to 188mm that way. The A/E car may be a little different. Shawn will be at the track this Thursday, swing by and see if he knows anything else to do.
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:12 PM
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I use the plastic axle washers for RJSpeed cars. they come in different thickness and just fit inside the wheel where the hub goes. That way I can adjust the spacing to my liking and have the axle stay well inside the hub. when I tighten the wheel nut the wheel stays flat against the washer and hub and have no wheel runout or wobble.
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Old 10-14-2017, 01:53 AM
  #701  
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Scooped up a couple new Products from "On Track RC" this weekend that are really nice.
First, is a fan mount that puts the fan over the center of motor.
Up next is battery strap set. It uses a oring system to retain the battery. the 2 keys slide right over the side braces and are held in place with 2 set set screws.


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Old 10-14-2017, 09:53 AM
  #702  
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Originally Posted by micrors4guy
Scooped up a couple new Products from "On Track RC" this weekend that are really nice.
First, is a fan mount that puts the fan over the center of motor.
Up next is battery strap set. It uses a oring system to retain the battery. the 2 keys slide right over the side braces and are held in place with 2 set set screws.


You have a link for these items by any chance???
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Old 10-14-2017, 11:00 AM
  #703  
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Originally Posted by skipstr
You have a link for these items by any chance???
http://ontrackrc.com/V2/product/f6-fan-mount/

http://ontrackrc.com/V2/product/f6-battery-retention-system/
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Old 10-18-2017, 03:24 PM
  #704  
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Originally Posted by micrors4guy
http://ontrackrc.com/V2/product/f6-fan-mount/

F6 Battery Retention System ? OnTrackRC
Doesn't that interfere with chassis movement?
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Old 10-18-2017, 03:34 PM
  #705  
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Originally Posted by racegoer711
Doesn't that interfere with chassis movement?
No, the side chassis braces remain static in relation to the battery, so it doesn't affect movement at all. The oring retainers clamp to the side braces, not the links.
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